Considering a fixer '06 A6 Quattro
#11
AudiWorld Senior Member
Nope, $400 for a 2005 A6 3.2. The car is essentially done now except for suspension, control arms and tires. I’ve been working on and off over the past 5 months, nothing too major. Valve cover gaskets, a few misfires from wiring, purge valve, and of course all the basic maintanence and vag com.
Is it worth doing the valve covers? I assume yours were leaking since you did them. Are there 2 (top and bottom) on each side? I wanna say I have read that in this forum somewhere. I have an oil (and probably power steering fluid) leak. The engine compartment and plastic bottom cover (and wheel wells) are covered in oil (old dried oil in the wheel well). I need to take it and put it up on a lift and look around under there to see if I can figure it out.
I need to tackle the P2024 but don't want to just throw money at stuff. Haven't bought a VAG-COM yet. Did you replace the purge valve because VAG-COM said it was bad or just as regular maintenance? Any suggestions on P2024 (other than the obvious need to hook it up to VAG-COM or take it to a dealer)? :-)
Thanks.
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
Putting anything in the gas tank won't clean you intake valves or manifold surfaces for a direct injection engine. The only sure way to clean these parts is to remove the upper and lower manifolds, and scrapping/scrubbing/digging at the carbon buildup. After I had to replace the Bank 1 lower intake manifold for a failed vacuum actuator, I cleaned the valves, intake ports, and diverter plates. After re-assembly, I then ran Seafoam slowing thru the vacuum line (using a needle valve) off the EVAP N80 solenoid valve with the engine running. I now do this once a year when I change the oil/filter to try and keep these parts clean. So far, it appears to do the job.
Not sure I want to tackle the job of removing the intake manifolds just yet. Any other less invasive suggestions for the emissions and rough idle? Should I do the Seafoam or would it be a waste of time and money to do it if the intake valves/manifold surfaces are filthy? I am looking at an ad right now from Advance auto parts that has seafoam for buy one get on half off. LOL.
#13
Wow. What a great deal. Unless you have spent $4K-$5K in repairs. :-)
Is it worth doing the valve covers? I assume yours were leaking since you did them. Are there 2 (top and bottom) on each side? I wanna say I have read that in this forum somewhere. I have an oil (and probably power steering fluid) leak. The engine compartment and plastic bottom cover (and wheel wells) are covered in oil (old dried oil in the wheel well). I need to take it and put it up on a lift and look around under there to see if I can figure it out.
I need to tackle the P2024 but don't want to just throw money at stuff. Haven't bought a VAG-COM yet. Did you replace the purge valve because VAG-COM said it was bad or just as regular maintenance? Any suggestions on P2024 (other than the obvious need to hook it up to VAG-COM or take it to a dealer)? :-)
Thanks.
Is it worth doing the valve covers? I assume yours were leaking since you did them. Are there 2 (top and bottom) on each side? I wanna say I have read that in this forum somewhere. I have an oil (and probably power steering fluid) leak. The engine compartment and plastic bottom cover (and wheel wells) are covered in oil (old dried oil in the wheel well). I need to take it and put it up on a lift and look around under there to see if I can figure it out.
I need to tackle the P2024 but don't want to just throw money at stuff. Haven't bought a VAG-COM yet. Did you replace the purge valve because VAG-COM said it was bad or just as regular maintenance? Any suggestions on P2024 (other than the obvious need to hook it up to VAG-COM or take it to a dealer)? :-)
Thanks.
There are two valve covers on the top, remove the coil packs and remove anything in the way. Then undo all the torque bolts and pull the valve cover off. I also cleaned the cover. Then place the new gasket into the groove and apply RTV silicone. Then go in reverse order. The total for those from RockAuto was $29.
I was getting a p2404 code, implausible signal. And there was also quit a loud clicking coming from the purge valve. I replaced it and clicking stop. I need to check out my logs, but my problem with that went away. Another issue I am having right now is that on cold starts the exhaust makes a sound like the flow is changing, kind of like a puttering but deeper sounding, it goes way once the car is warmed up.
#14
AudiWorld Senior Member
Ok. Thanks for the info. So am I just pouring wasted money in the gas tank by using the Gumout? I feel like I need to do something about the emissions and rough idle. Thank God I don't live in an area where I have to get emissions testing. Again, I have only owned the car 2 weeks. I noticed from the Carfax that the previous owner passed the most recent emissions test (he lived in an area that required it) in 2017 but initially failed in 2015 and 2013. So this car is prone to emissions issues (the C6 platform all probably are from what I have been reading).
Not sure I want to tackle the job of removing the intake manifolds just yet. Any other less invasive suggestions for the emissions and rough idle? Should I do the Seafoam or would it be a waste of time and money to do it if the intake valves/manifold surfaces are filthy? I am looking at an ad right now from Advance auto parts that has seafoam for buy one get on half off. LOL.
Not sure I want to tackle the job of removing the intake manifolds just yet. Any other less invasive suggestions for the emissions and rough idle? Should I do the Seafoam or would it be a waste of time and money to do it if the intake valves/manifold surfaces are filthy? I am looking at an ad right now from Advance auto parts that has seafoam for buy one get on half off. LOL.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...clean-2764902/
Thanks.
#15
AudiWorld Member
I did not see anyone comment on the your #2 issue. Obviously not as important since it's purely cosmetic. I have a 2005 with a similar issue on the door blades. They are held on by a small bolt at the back and a screw at the front (depending on year). Look for a rubber plug with a cross cut in it towards the front and you can push a screwdriver through to get to the phillips head screw (it may be a small bolt too). Once you get the two bolts/screws out, you need to slide the door blade forward. It has slots that go onto pins. Be careful because the slot piece is plastic and the locating pin piece is metal. On mine, the the metal had rusted and blistered and expanded to push the door blade out. I was able to dismantle it and scrape out all the rusted metal. It fits much better, but not perfect. I also had a 2007 and the construction was a little different so not sure what you have on a 2006. Be careful putting it back in place. If you push too hard, you will break the plastic rail (Ask my how I know).
#16
AudiWorld Senior Member
Wow. What a great deal. Unless you have spent $4K-$5K in repairs. :-)
Is it worth doing the valve covers? I assume yours were leaking since you did them. Are there 2 (top and bottom) on each side? I wanna say I have read that in this forum somewhere. I have an oil (and probably power steering fluid) leak. The engine compartment and plastic bottom cover (and wheel wells) are covered in oil (old dried oil in the wheel well). I need to take it and put it up on a lift and look around under there to see if I can figure it out.
I need to tackle the P2024 but don't want to just throw money at stuff. Haven't bought a VAG-COM yet. Did you replace the purge valve because VAG-COM said it was bad or just as regular maintenance? Any suggestions on P2024 (other than the obvious need to hook it up to VAG-COM or take it to a dealer)? :-)
Thanks.
Is it worth doing the valve covers? I assume yours were leaking since you did them. Are there 2 (top and bottom) on each side? I wanna say I have read that in this forum somewhere. I have an oil (and probably power steering fluid) leak. The engine compartment and plastic bottom cover (and wheel wells) are covered in oil (old dried oil in the wheel well). I need to take it and put it up on a lift and look around under there to see if I can figure it out.
I need to tackle the P2024 but don't want to just throw money at stuff. Haven't bought a VAG-COM yet. Did you replace the purge valve because VAG-COM said it was bad or just as regular maintenance? Any suggestions on P2024 (other than the obvious need to hook it up to VAG-COM or take it to a dealer)? :-)
Thanks.
#17
AudiWorld Senior Member
At the moment with the price of the car and the PPI from Audi the total is about $1100. I think i lucked out as a lot of it was broken connections and the wiring was messed with.
There are two valve covers on the top, remove the coil packs and remove anything in the way. Then undo all the torque bolts and pull the valve cover off. I also cleaned the cover. Then place the new gasket into the groove and apply RTV silicone. Then go in reverse order. The total for those from RockAuto was $29.
I was getting a p2404 code, implausible signal. And there was also quit a loud clicking coming from the purge valve. I replaced it and clicking stop. I need to check out my logs, but my problem with that went away. Another issue I am having right now is that on cold starts the exhaust makes a sound like the flow is changing, kind of like a puttering but deeper sounding, it goes way once the car is warmed up.
There are two valve covers on the top, remove the coil packs and remove anything in the way. Then undo all the torque bolts and pull the valve cover off. I also cleaned the cover. Then place the new gasket into the groove and apply RTV silicone. Then go in reverse order. The total for those from RockAuto was $29.
I was getting a p2404 code, implausible signal. And there was also quit a loud clicking coming from the purge valve. I replaced it and clicking stop. I need to check out my logs, but my problem with that went away. Another issue I am having right now is that on cold starts the exhaust makes a sound like the flow is changing, kind of like a puttering but deeper sounding, it goes way once the car is warmed up.
#18
AudiWorld Senior Member
I might try the seafoam thing A6Gary. Not sure if it's worth doing without taking off the upper and lower manifolds (I'm really reluctant to take off the lower one) and doing some scraping first. Worth a shot to just do the seafoam??? Thanks.
#19
AudiWorld Senior Member
I did not see anyone comment on the your #2 issue. Obviously not as important since it's purely cosmetic. I have a 2005 with a similar issue on the door blades. They are held on by a small bolt at the back and a screw at the front (depending on year). Look for a rubber plug with a cross cut in it towards the front and you can push a screwdriver through to get to the phillips head screw (it may be a small bolt too). Once you get the two bolts/screws out, you need to slide the door blade forward. It has slots that go onto pins. Be careful because the slot piece is plastic and the locating pin piece is metal. On mine, the the metal had rusted and blistered and expanded to push the door blade out. I was able to dismantle it and scrape out all the rusted metal. It fits much better, but not perfect. I also had a 2007 and the construction was a little different so not sure what you have on a 2006. Be careful putting it back in place. If you push too hard, you will break the plastic rail (Ask my how I know).
#20
The clicking was loud enough for me to hear it over the injector tick. The purge valve is located right on top of the throttle body. I would check all around the engine for leaks but another place to look is the engine mounts. That is also another thing to get done since it could let extra weight on the transmissiom and cause some problems.