mmthorn

Wondering if anyone has had P1139 code with sometimes Mil On along with high bank two block #93 values? Took my A6 3.2 into dealer with Mil On and P1139 and they told me the chain may be stretched and causing this Mil On. Anyone else had this combination of issues? Thanks.

Sverige

I guess you've seen this Mmthorn?
17547/P1139/004409 - Ross-Tech Wiki
Are any of the sensors mentioned ones which you disconnected to move the wiring loom to access the cam cover, and could they perhaps not have been plugged back in fully?

mmthorn

Thanks Sverige...Yes I have read that link. I have not changed my tensioners yet and I have not removed any wires or connectors. I don't know if I can accept the dealers assessment that the chain is stretched and causing the P1139 if no one else has also had this symptom. Here are my block #32 values.

21:44:24 Group 032: Lambda Control (Mixture Adaptation)
-0.2 % Adaptation (Idle) Bank 1 Sensor 1
-10.0 % Adaptation (Partial) Bank 1 Sensor 1
-0.3 % Adaptation (Idle) Bank 2 Sensor 1
-15.0 % Adaptation (Partial) Bank 2 Sensor 1

Here is the code.

1 Fault Found:
17547 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add)
P1139 - 007 - System too Rich - MIL ON

Seems like I should be solving the P1139 in addition to the chain stretch (tensioners) if no one else has had this combination.

Thanks,

Sverige

That's beyond my knowledge I'm afraid. How does a timing chain stretch affect mixture control anyway? Do you know your block 93 values, as these (to my understanding) reflect the chain condition. How long has your chain been making a rattling sound at startup? I thought the chain stretch was an issue for those who ignore the rattle from a failed tensioner too long.

hrc4u

maybe leaking injector(s)?
/H

mmthorn

Thanks Sverige, My block #93 values are also high on Bank 2 as follows:

21:44:24 Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment (Adaption Values)
0.4°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 1
4.9°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 2
0.8°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 1
3.0°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 2

For now I am going to ignore my dealers assertion that the P1139 and the chain stretch/tensioner are related. Unless someone else has had these two things together. The dealer tried to link bank 2 chain stretch with fuel problems given that the high pressure fuel pump is driven off of bank 2.

I think it is more likely a leaky injector as HRC4U notes.

hrc4u

That's not to bad values.. I had 7.5/3.0 in bank 2..and no fuel codes.. So most probably something else.. Injectors.. Or something
/H

Sverige

So after trying, unsuccessfully, to talk myself out of taking this job on, I have spent the weekend preparing myself by researching the procedure to replace bank 2 tensioner. I must say a big thank you to hrc4u who has been assisting with info and has been very helpful.

I've watching through the Edge motors video a few times and read this whole thread a lot too, but I know I'm forgetful and however much prep I do, I could be there working on the car and start doing things in a different sequence just because I forgot the right order. So I've prepared the below list as a short-form how to, which is not intended to contain all the info but just to prompt me with the key steps in the process and the most important info. I would be very grateful if some of you who've done this job successfully can read through and confirm I've got things right, or correct me before I start work. In particular can I get some confirmation that steps 17-23 are in the right order and the directions noted for the force applied to the holding tool are correct?

1. Remove plastic engine covers and move coolant tank & wiring loom out of way
2. Remove coilpacks
3. Clean with air around valve and cam covers
4. Remove cam cover bolts and cam cover
5. Remove timing chain upper cover (use rags to plug holes into lower chambers)
6. Remove spark plugs (use rags to cover holes) then rotate crank 3-4 complete 360 degree rotations then rotate to put engine in TDC
7. Lock cams with cam locking tool plus 1/2" extension
8. Insert crank locking pin (drop sway bar for access)
9. Loosen bolt on intake (upper) cam adjuster
10. Loosen bolt on exhaust (lower) cam adjuster
11. Remove cam adjuster sprockets
12. Remove t30 screws and take out tensioner.
13. Inspect and clean area then install new tensioner
14. Install exhaust sprocket then insert bolt by hand
15. Install intake sprocket and insert bolt by hand
16. Pull grenade pin on tensioner
17. Pretension chain with holding tool on intake adjuster clockwise (As viewed from rear of car)
18. Tighten intake sprocket 30ftlb (pretensioning pressure on intake in same direction as bolt is tightened)
19. Tighten exhaust sprocket 30ftlb (pretensioning on intake in same direction as tightening direction of bolt)
20. Tighten exhaust sprocket 60ftlb with holding force on exhaust sprocket in opposite direction to pretensioning, i.e. Anti-clockwise viewed from rear of car
21. Tighten intake sprocket 60ftlb with holding force on intake sprocket in opposite direction to pretensioning, i.e. Anti-clockwise viewed from rear of car
22. Tighten intake sprocket bolt final 90 degrees with holding force on intake sprocket against tightening force, ie opposite direction to pretensioning force
23. Tighten exhaust sprocket bolt final 90 degrees with holding force on exhaust sprocket against tightening force, ie opposite direction to pretensioning force
24. Remove cam locking tools
25. Remove crank locking pin
26. Rotate crank two engine revolutions and check all runs smoothly
27. Reinstall cam locking tool and crank pin (to test everything still in time)
28. Remove cam locking tools and crank pin and crank manually twice again
29. Pull fuel pump fuse and run starter 10 secs
30. Put engine to tdc and check one last time cam timing still correct?
31. Reinstall timing chain cover with rtv - torque bolts to 5Nm plus 90 degree turn
32. Reinstall valve cover with 9Nm torque on bolts
32. Reassemble spark plugs, coil packs, wiring looms, coolant tank, fuel pump fuse
33. Start engine

hrc4u

(no problem! hopefully we can save yet another 3.2! )

think i didn't mension in mail...but i pored some fresh oil into the tensioner...(just to make shure it's filled with oil before assembly..just fill it up..every hole on back)

just some obvious notes...as in the Audi manual:
"It should just be possible to turn both
camshaft adjusters on the camshaft
without axial movement"
soo...no wiggling...yet still loose that they can turn!

+ holding tool possible to use 2 ways...so make shure you have it the right way (so it is holding and not spreading the "arms")
not necessary...you already cranked it just a while ago

not necessary...if it didn't already explode during engine crank with fuel fuse out.... just put here together and start here up!..

anyway...work order seems ok as far as i see..(others feel free to comment)
cheers!/H

Sverige

Thanks HRC. Well my new bank 2 tensioner showed up so I guess I'm out of excuses now. Better make a start on this job at the weekend.