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DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

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Old 07-19-2014, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Clevercrow
So far have all 4 cams loosened and cam locks installed. Now need to turn the engine to TDC and put crank pin in. Trying to figure out which piston should be up that way I know it is correct TDC. Thankyou for any help
HHmmmm, did you have both sets of cams as close to upright position as possible when you locked them? If so, then I'd work the crank around slowly without forcing till the locking pin slides in. This appears to be the firing order I pulled off of net, TDC would be piston 1, but remember to use locking pin and not just relative piston position.


Old 07-19-2014, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Clevercrow
So far have all 4 cams loosened and cam locks installed. Now need to turn the engine to TDC and put crank pin in. Trying to figure out which piston should be up that way I know it is correct TDC. Thankyou for any help
Use the timing mark on the harmonic balancer (I probably would have done this first). It aligns with the seam between the block and the upper oil pan. Bentley has a picture.
Old 07-26-2014, 01:26 PM
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Hi All -

Ok spent most of the day striping the engine down again and the CAM's are all off line all 4 are slightly out and no two line up, so i guess i screwed up when putting things back together last time, and hence the reason it won't start.

I've taken the under cover off and have located the 6mm hex cap to put the locking PIN into the crank but how on earth do you get to it - I've removed the solid bar that sit's in between the two wheels but still not able to get enough space - How's anyone else being able to get the cover cap off and the locking PIN in please -
Old 07-26-2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by A6Riddler
How's anyone else being able to get the cover cap off and the locking PIN in please -
I'm confused about the what the problem is. I went at it from the back of the car, along side the trans. You need a long 6 MM allen to get the plug out (there is a hole in that motor mount bracket.)
Old 08-07-2014, 01:43 PM
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Ok quick question guys, doing the upper last and right tensioners on 3.2 a6. The instruction book calls for replacing all the bolts on the cam covers , all the bolts for new tensioners and bolts for cam shaft sprockets. Total of 46 bolts I think. My question is that how important is it to use new hardware when doing the tensioner replacement ? Thanks
Old 08-16-2014, 07:35 AM
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Regarding the timing tool kit....

Can anyone confirm these listed tools will work with the 2008 3.2 FSI? - My engine code on trunk sticker is BKH.
(or is there an alternate set needed for same job on a 2008)

Various sources list the kit as 2004 to 2007 3.2 just want to be certain before purchasing.

Committed to the job, I've already ordered both Audi brand tensioners.

- Your experienced comments are appreciated!
Old 08-17-2014, 07:08 AM
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To the original poster, thank you for taking the time to post. I am fearful that mine may be gone but not sure. "Loudness" is really subjective.

To AtzMyBoy this ad suggests they are the same and at least this one supports BKH engine.

Assenmacher T40070 V6 VW Audi Cam Holding Tool 3.2 L

Originally Posted by AtzMyBoy
Regarding the timing tool kit....

Can anyone confirm these listed tools will work with the 2008 3.2 FSI? - My engine code on trunk sticker is BKH.
(or is there an alternate set needed for same job on a 2008)

Various sources list the kit as 2004 to 2007 3.2 just want to be certain before purchasing.

Committed to the job, I've already ordered both Audi brand tensioners.

- Your experienced comments are appreciated!
Old 08-17-2014, 08:59 AM
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Thanks for the info turbo97se.

Thought I'd share this too...
I've been buying online from FCP Groton (now FCP Euro) for years. I asked for a price match on the tensioners, (v/s partsgeek.com from OP), and they were happy to oblige. That in itself is no too extraordinary, but here's the real reason I mention it - FCP Euro sells genuine Audi parts AND Guarantees for LIFE!

- That, my friends, is the real reason I shopped there.

If this becomes a "repeat problem", next cycle of parts = No Charge.

I like that!
Old 08-18-2014, 05:10 PM
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Agree ... I just bought and fitted rear pads and Zimmerman rotors from FCP Euro this past weekend .. best prices around that I could find. Beats the $750+ dealer quoted.

Originally Posted by AtzMyBoy
Thanks for the info turbo97se.

Thought I'd share this too...
I've been buying online from FCP Groton (now FCP Euro) for years. I asked for a price match on the tensioners, (v/s partsgeek.com from OP), and they were happy to oblige. That in itself is no too extraordinary, but here's the real reason I mention it - FCP Euro sells genuine Audi parts AND Guarantees for LIFE!

- That, my friends, is the real reason I shopped there.

If this becomes a "repeat problem", next cycle of parts = No Charge.

I like that!
Old 08-19-2014, 01:51 PM
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Hey guys replaced tensioners on both sides locked both cams also used crank locking pin everything looks good but I am unable to manually turn the engine more than a quarter turn on the crank forward or back. I don't want to force it Any ideas?


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