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DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

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DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

 
Old 05-24-2014, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Clevercrow View Post
Hi, great instructions thanks. I had loud clatter and desiling sound from the driver side bank. After watching a few videos and reading this fourm decided to replace the driver side tensioner. But looking at it it seems like the Spain is tight and when I push on it, has very little movement. Kinda stumped now. Any help? Thanks.
That happened to me also, but when you run the engine, it won't hold pressure. First, make sure you're looking on the correct side. You can run the engine briefly with the cover off and verify it's the tensioner. If you run it for a short time, the piston should bleed out and start clacking. It's very loud when it's failed, you can't miss it. Shut of the engine and check the tensioner again. I'd stick some rags all around the area as oil will be forced out the opening.
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Newbie123 View Post
Hi,

Your description says that you do not need to take the engine out. Yet the one photo you show is with the engine out. Did you remove the engine?
Hi, that photo was one I pulled off the internet. I did not remove my engine.
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:24 PM
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<<<@[email protected]>>>

Thanks! I was driving home and when I pulled into my driveway, it sounded like this (no check engine lights or warning):


Last edited by mkongsiri; 05-24-2014 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by starkenl View Post
My 05 A6 3.2 just started acting up.. Loud diesel sound. How long before i need to change the tensioner?
If it's making noise, it's not tensioning the chain properly. If it's only at cold start and goes away, you may have some time but your guess is as good as mine! I've read alot of people continuing to drive with it like that. The chain will most likely eventually jump the cam sprockets and you'll end up bending some valves.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:10 AM
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Ok guys quick question. If I mark the chain and the exact sprocket tooth on the cam then remove the tensioner and replace it, would I be able to get away with not buying the cam locking tool thing. What do you guys think? Figured by marking it I could put the chain right back where it was.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Clevercrow View Post
Ok guys quick question. If I mark the chain and the exact sprocket tooth on the cam then remove the tensioner and replace it, would I be able to get away with not buying the cam locking tool thing. What do you guys think? Figured by marking it I could put the chain right back where it was.
Really bad idea. when you try removing/installing the came adjuster bolts the cams are going to move all over the place. The locks hold the cams in place when applying torque to undo/tighten bolts. The cam adjuster sprockets aren't indexed so they do not lock into any specific position on the cam. The $150 for the tool set is going to save you alot of time and headache in the end. Just resell them on ebay when you're done with them.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mkongsiri View Post
Really bad idea. when you try removing/installing the came adjuster bolts the cams are going to move all over the place. The locks hold the cams in place when applying torque to undo/tighten bolts. The cam adjuster sprockets aren't indexed so they do not lock into any specific position on the cam. The $150 for the tool set is going to save you alot of time and headache in the end. Just resell them on ebay when you're done with them.
Ok thankyou I will take your advice and buy the tool. Also was wondering if the valve timing actuator could be the culprit, because the chain seems very tight on the tensioner but I had NO check engine light on. Oh and if I'm doing driver side bank only do I need to lock the cams on passinger side too? Because I have not taken valve cover off on passinger side.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:50 PM
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I have a set, brand new and unused, if you want to buy just the cam tools.

I bought these first, but then opted for a full kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130858641409?item=130858641409
You can have mine for $100.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Clevercrow View Post
Ok thankyou I will take your advice and buy the tool. Also was wondering if the valve timing actuator could be the culprit, because the chain seems very tight on the tensioner but I had NO check engine light on. Oh and if I'm doing driver side bank only do I need to lock the cams on passinger side too? Because I have not taken valve cover off on passinger side.
If you're only doing the drivers side, you can lock only those cams. I didn't get a check engine light either on mine. I noticed that when I first opened it up and started figuring all of this out, my chain was also tight. But I'd run the engine for a few seconds to make sure and I could hear it was definitely the side I was working on. Then I'd check the chain and it would flop around. I'd run it again and it would be tight, it was kind of random. I think the hydraulic piston can holding enough pressure against the strength of your hand but it bleeds out when subjected to the force of the running engine. The easiest way is to just install the new tensioner and see if it fixes it, if not, return it. If your engine sounds like the one in the video, it's definitely either the drivers or passenger tensioner. The chain tensioner is purely hydraulic and separate from variable timing actuator.

Last edited by mkongsiri; 05-27-2014 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mkongsiri View Post
If you're only doing the drivers side, you can lock only those cams.
I'd lock both sides to keep the engine at tdc when you have one bank apart.
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