09-07-2016, 03:03 PM
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- Audi A6 C6 How to Replace Upper Timing Chain Tensioners<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement
08-18-2017, 06:53 AM
#301
Audiworld Junior Member
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I got REALLY wonky values after doing this, initially. I think since I evacuated the oil from the recess ( since dirt inevitably got in ), it took a bit for the actuator pressure circuit to get back to baseline. I think if I ever pull the actuator again, I'll pour in clean oil, then evacuate what spills out as I re-insert the unit.
BOPOH: This is a 3.2-centric thread, I'd look elsewhere as we might do you harm by citing what's good for our engine. I believe if you search this thread, you can find those values, though.
BOPOH: This is a 3.2-centric thread, I'd look elsewhere as we might do you harm by citing what's good for our engine. I believe if you search this thread, you can find those values, though.
08-18-2017, 06:58 PM
#304
08-18-2017, 09:40 PM
#305
you could first start by swapping camshaft position sensor between banks (swap for instance intake sensors)...start her up...same values? or did they move with sensor?
after that swap the actuators ..same procedure as sensors..any difference?
i did like that but made no difference so thats why i'm now replacing atleast the tensioner to see what happens
/H
after that swap the actuators ..same procedure as sensors..any difference?
i did like that but made no difference so thats why i'm now replacing atleast the tensioner to see what happens
/H
I've been watching the edge motors video this morning and wondering if this is truly a job I can do myself. I've never pulled an engine apart and the tightening procedure including the final 90 degrees turn on the cam adjuster bolts scares me a bit. Not sure if I'm strong enough to do that, or if I can do it without slipping and f*cking up my engine.
08-18-2017, 10:31 PM
#306
The tip post.
Great thread- lots of really good tangents and collective wisdom.
My additions: I have a B7 A4. I was daunted by the crank pin access, but found that on my car, on 1 jackstand, wheel and undertray off and sway brackets dropped, it was pretty straightforward.
The timing cover fasteners, on the other hand, were at least as bad as others indicated. My advice: you are saving thousands of dollars on this job. Spend a few bucks to save hours, too. After using a 1/4 conventional socket to unsuccessfully hold bits on disassembly, I went on a spree before I had to put it together.
K-D/Gearwrench 1/4"drive/1/4"bit, locking angle flex head set. Not perfect, but greatly expanded acccess with both 1/4" drive and 1/4" bits.
A few longer power-dive bits greatly expand your access options.
3/8" socket to 1/4" bit.
You can go cheap on something similar, but I felt good using German engineering. It worked very well, opening up my full library of 3/8" drive extensions and ratchets with the torx bits above.
Ball drive torx bit for off-angle positive access. What a time to be alive, eh?
Sunex impact torx sockets. A lot of the access on the cam cover is shrouded, and the bulge in the timing cover crowds access with meaty bits, but these still proved handy here and there. Security were cheaper than conventional, for some reason. I also picked up a triple square set, but only really applicable for power driving the cam bolts in and out, after they are loose.
HF T-drive. The extra articulation mostly just got in the way, but helped a skosh here and there, before it gave me a brutal pinch. Straighten it out,
though, and cinch up all 24 cam cover t30s like a Joest team pro.
Take lots of hose and wire routing pix before you start. I throw unmissable lime green painter's tape labels on both sides of everything I disconnect.
The RTV is a huge pain. After one abortive attempt. I practiced the slide-and-roll-in motion like Mr Miyagi was standing over me, then only applied sealant to the parts I was sure I couldn't reach. Once I had it in ( and cleaned off the goo that still ended up getting dragged onto the wrong places-grr ) , I started threads in the two lowest holes to hold the cover, then finished the bead around the top section in place before setting it onto the mating surface.
Great thread- lots of really good tangents and collective wisdom.
My additions: I have a B7 A4. I was daunted by the crank pin access, but found that on my car, on 1 jackstand, wheel and undertray off and sway brackets dropped, it was pretty straightforward.
The timing cover fasteners, on the other hand, were at least as bad as others indicated. My advice: you are saving thousands of dollars on this job. Spend a few bucks to save hours, too. After using a 1/4 conventional socket to unsuccessfully hold bits on disassembly, I went on a spree before I had to put it together.
K-D/Gearwrench 1/4"drive/1/4"bit, locking angle flex head set. Not perfect, but greatly expanded acccess with both 1/4" drive and 1/4" bits.
A few longer power-dive bits greatly expand your access options.
3/8" socket to 1/4" bit.
You can go cheap on something similar, but I felt good using German engineering. It worked very well, opening up my full library of 3/8" drive extensions and ratchets with the torx bits above.
Ball drive torx bit for off-angle positive access. What a time to be alive, eh?
Sunex impact torx sockets. A lot of the access on the cam cover is shrouded, and the bulge in the timing cover crowds access with meaty bits, but these still proved handy here and there. Security were cheaper than conventional, for some reason. I also picked up a triple square set, but only really applicable for power driving the cam bolts in and out, after they are loose.
HF T-drive. The extra articulation mostly just got in the way, but helped a skosh here and there, before it gave me a brutal pinch. Straighten it out,
though, and cinch up all 24 cam cover t30s like a Joest team pro.
Take lots of hose and wire routing pix before you start. I throw unmissable lime green painter's tape labels on both sides of everything I disconnect.
The RTV is a huge pain. After one abortive attempt. I practiced the slide-and-roll-in motion like Mr Miyagi was standing over me, then only applied sealant to the parts I was sure I couldn't reach. Once I had it in ( and cleaned off the goo that still ended up getting dragged onto the wrong places-grr ) , I started threads in the two lowest holes to hold the cover, then finished the bead around the top section in place before setting it onto the mating surface.
Last edited by Sverige; 08-18-2017 at 10:36 PM.
08-19-2017, 01:26 AM
#307
AudiWorld Senior Member
08-19-2017, 01:27 AM
#308
AudiWorld Senior Member
08-19-2017, 01:31 AM
#309
AudiWorld Senior Member
/H
08-19-2017, 01:36 AM
#310
AudiWorld Senior Member
at the moment i did one mistake yesterday when starting to put in the new tensioner....OF coz' one bolt slipped and fell down the abyss..will see if i'm screwed or if i manage to get it up somehow..crap..
(yeah i had rags when i loosened the old one..but then a friend came by and that somehow distracted me so i forgot the rag when starting assembly....)
/H
(yeah i had rags when i loosened the old one..but then a friend came by and that somehow distracted me so i forgot the rag when starting assembly....)
/H