zhiqiang wang

I have the code:
000833 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 006 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
It used to show up not always, but only after about each 100 miles. After I drove in very bad manner at 5000+ rpm for about 30 minutes, the engine started to run rough and there were some white steam rising from the back of the engine bay and a lot of antifreeze flowing to the ground. The antifreeze level dropped about 5 cm. Now the engine starts with difficult when it's hot, I need to hold the key for about 3 seconds on ignition.
The 093 block reads like this:

I have read somewhere that the values should be between -10 and +10. Apparently the first value is abnormal.
Here is the question: Do I need to change only the UPPER RIGHT timing chain and tensioner for bank 1 (passenger side), or all the other ones including the lower ones should also be changed?
I hope that the four chains runs unconnected to each other and separately for each bank, without affecting each other.

A6Gary

You need to add the values for the intake and exhaust for each bank. If the sum exceeds ~9 degrees (KW), then the upper chain tensioners have probably failed. From your Block 93 values, both banks exceed this limit.

zhiqiang wang

Thank you very much!
I hope the lower tensioners are OK. My mechanic recommends me change all the tensioners. But that is much more expensive.

ijn

Hoping you or someone here can help me. I'm trying to get the driver's side timing chain cover off, to redo the leaking gasket. There is a bracket that holds 2 electrical connectors, held on with a 10mm nut. This bracket is towards the centerline of the car, and must be removed to allow the cover space for removal and reassembly. The nut also holds a ground wire, apparently for an oil pressure sensor. Once I remove the nut, there is a lot of movement in the bracket, and I can get it partially off the threaded stem it's sitting on, but for the life of me I could not free the bracket.

Is there some trick to removing the bracket? Is there another nut in there somewhere? I had to put everything back together, and I still have my oil leak. I called audi service, and they quoted $1400. I was so close! But I don't want to start pulling on things excessively and break stuff.

thanks.

hrc4u

If I remember correctly.. There is a bolt like in Pic ..
First you remove the nut and cable as you did . Then remove the bolt itself.. Then bracket should come out.
/H

ijn

I never would have figured that out. Thanks!!

ijn

I thought about this some more, and I'm not sure how I could get a wrench in there. And even if I could, it seemed that the bracket just didn't want to move because it was bound up on something. Was there another bolt? Something like that?

Also, the bracket did have 2 electrical connectors attached to it. Are they supposed to be removed? It was so tight in there I didn't want to disconnect them, and the wires seemed to have enough movement that it wasn't the culprit.

but I probably spent 20 minutes wiggling the bracket and it would go half way up the threaded post and stop.

Thx again.

hrc4u

use a mirror to see how it looks behind there! (or a borescope thing)
best is to disconnect the cables on bracket yes...so you can move them out of way
/H

Sverige

JasoninBRLA

Hello Group,

I just finished doing this job and it went pretty well. If you have the tools and take your time, then it will go pretty smoothly. I probably spent 24 hours total doing the job from the time I turned the first wrench till I finished changing the oil. Granted there were several hours in there that I watched the video and read and reread this thread. If I had to do it again, I could probably do the job in 12 hours. Anyway, I figured I would jot down some notes to help the next person along.

1) You absolutely positively have to have the tool set. I know a few of you did it without the set and that seems way too difficult to save $50.
2) On the cam sprocket holder in the tool set, I had a hard time keeping the tool on the cam sprocket. So I drilled a few small holes in the jaws and connected them with a small spring to keep it on the sprocket and it worked great.
3) Remove the hood for easy access and more light. There is literally 4 bolts, it takes less than 5 minutes.
4) I couldn't find or remove the bolt for the electrical connection at the base of the oil filter. So I did everything without removing the bracket. It doesn't have to be removed. Its tight, but can be done.
5) Clean the gasket material off the block "before you put the new tensioner in". I forgot to do that and it made it more difficult than it needed to be cleaning those surfaces.
6) For the crank locking pin and plug. I removed the plug fairly easily. Just insert a small bit into the hole using some really long needle nose pliers and use a 1/4 ratchet with a stick taped to the handle to make it longer so you can reach up in there. Same method for inserting the lock. I got tired of busting up my hand and come up with this method.
7) My most hated part was removing and putting back in the air filter housing. There HAS TO BE some trick to that that I don't know about.
8) The valve cover and gaskets are a joke. The covers are plastic and should be built better than that. There were 3 or 4 bolts that were completely loose. Every spark plug was swimming in 1.5" of oil when I took off the coil packs. I had to wick all that oil up with a piece of wire and rag strips before I could remove the plugs otherwise I would dump a tablespoon of oil into the head of each cylinder.
9) I broke the vac hose from the top of the valve cover. They are very brittle from the heat. A friend suggested I use some heat shrink tubing to repair it. I got the perfect size tubing from Napa for like $4 and connected the two pieces and it worked great. Just heat it a little to put it in place and let the engine heat do the rest.
10) Man its difficult putting some of those bolts back in the tensioner without dropping them. You can't see, and the bolts are oily even after you wash them b/c your hands are going to get oily trying to feel around in there. I of course plugged up the holes in the bottom with a rag as best I could. Then I wrapped each bolt a few times with very very thin copper wire. Once I was able to get the bolt started, I just unwrapped the copper wire. When I dropped the bolt, I just fished it back with the wire. More than anything, it just keeps you from being nervous about dropping that bolt down into the abyss.
11) My car is a 2008 with 135,000 miles. The tensioner plastic was good everywhere, but the piston was leaking oil from the seal on Bank 1. The car was still in time. I didn't hear the rattle everyone mentions hearing, I was just getting nervous with the mileage which is why I went ahead and did the job.

Thats it. If anyone has any questions, shoot me a PM with your phone number and I will call you and talk you through it. Or I can send you back my phone number and you can call me.

Anyway. Good Luck,

Jason