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DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

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Old 06-09-2014, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mkongsiri
4Driver, just wondering, I was never able to find any information about timing marks on the 3.2 engine when I researched this before I started it.
I don't have a picture, but I did see one in the Bentley manual.


Originally Posted by mkongsiri
Also, the crankshaft locking pin is about 3 inches long. If I recall correctly, on my 05 A6, the engine mount was in front of the locking pin access hole about an inch away. The image below pretty accurately shows the position of the seal and mount. I needed a second wrist just to get a finger on it. I didn't see a way of getting an allen key in to undo the seal plug let alone getting the actual pin in. It did not look possible to do with the engine still in the car. Have you been able to do this?
It is possible. There is a cut-away or hole in the engine mount bracket. You need a long 6 mm allen.
Old 06-10-2014, 10:28 AM
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Ok so I have left side cams locked and tensioner out. Had not locked the right side. The chain turned 1 tooth with the cam tensioner when removing them. I know they are not keyed but imm worried that the sprocket in the bitton could have also moved and changed the timing. My question is if I now remove the right side valve cover to lock the cams there, will that put me back at correct timing? If the holes for locking tool are not aligned here should I turn the crank to align them for the tool? Left side is locked with tensioner out and I can't see any marking on harmonic balancer. Thanks very much.
Old 06-10-2014, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Clevercrow
Ok so I have left side cams locked and tensioner out. Had not locked the right side. The chain turned 1 tooth with the cam tensioner when removing them. I know they are not keyed but imm worried that the sprocket in the bitton could have also moved and changed the timing. My question is if I now remove the right side valve cover to lock the cams there, will that put me back at correct timing? If the holes for locking tool are not aligned here should I turn the crank to align them for the tool? Left side is locked with tensioner out and I can't see any marking on harmonic balancer. Thanks very much.
The lower sprocket is connected to the crank with another chain so it shouldn't move unless the crankshaft has. Pop the right side valve cover and see where those locking holes are. I recall you saying only the left is bad so most likely the right side should still be in time. If the car was running before disassembly, it should be fairly close. If the chain is off on the left, you can leave lock on. Just turn the crank slightly till the right side is aligned and lock it. If the right side is way off, something is obviously wrong. I wouldn't turn the engine too much with the left side undone. The end game here is to have the cam locks on both sides on at the same time, then you'll be timed correctly as long as nothing is too screwed up. If you want to be 100% sure, do as 4Driver4 suggested and put the crankshaft locking pin in.

Last edited by mkongsiri; 06-10-2014 at 10:47 AM.
Old 06-10-2014, 12:36 PM
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Ok guys. When I lock cams and adjust one cam which not aligned properly after tighten the bolts. When I turn the crankshaft engine gets stock for a little somewhere in the middle of the turn, and after one full turn bank one and bank two not aligned to lock cams again. After another turn they become not aligned even more.
Old 06-10-2014, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Cadillacby
Ok guys. When I lock cams and adjust one cam which not aligned properly after tighten the bolts. When I turn the crankshaft engine gets stock for a little somewhere in the middle of the turn, and after one full turn bank one and bank two not aligned to lock cams again. After another turn they become not aligned even more.
Did you tighten the cam adjusters to the specified torque? I would NOT be turning the engine around like that unless I was SURE you've got it assembled correctly. I really hope your valves aren't smacking into your pistons. The only way I see it would go out of time is if the cams adjusters aren't tightened. And also, TDC should come up every 720 degrees of rotation (power stroke vs exhaust stroke). Did you lock in right bank first then realign the left bank? You must torque the adjusters down like I had specified in the guide.

Do this:

1. Get your right cylinder bank aligned and lock them
2. Undo the chain on the left side
3. Manually line up the cams on the left side by attaching cam adjusters without the chain on and use the 12-point socket.
4. When the left side is aligned, lock them.
5. Reattach left chain
6. Torque the cam adjusters 30lbs, 60lbs, then another 1/4 turn
7. take off locks on both sides

DO NOT force your engine around or you will bend a valve.

Last edited by mkongsiri; 06-10-2014 at 12:53 PM.
Old 06-10-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mkongsiri
Did you tighten the cam adjusters to the specified torque? I would NOT be turning the engine around like that unless I was SURE you've got it assembled correctly. I really hope your valves aren't smacking into your pistons. The only way I see it would go out of time is if the cams adjusters aren't tightened. And also, TDC should come up every 720 degrees of rotation (power stroke vs exhaust stroke). Did you lock in right bank first then realign the left bank? You must torque the adjusters down like I had specified in the guide.

Do this:

1. Get your right cylinder bank aligned and lock them
2. Undo the chain on the left side
3. Manually line up the cams on the left side by attaching cam adjusters without the chain on and use the 12-point socket.
4. When the left side is aligned, lock them.
5. Reattach left chain
6. Torque the cam adjusters 30lbs, 60lbs, then another 1/4 turn
7. take off locks on both sides

DO NOT force your engine around or you will bend a valve.
I did exactly as you said. When I rotate crankshaft I can see how the chain jump the tooth. One time I did everything until step 6 turn 1/4 turn, I can turn the engine like 7 times, after I did turn 1/4 turn, and turn the crankshaft chain skipped again. I can clearly see it. Is it possible this chain become stretched? And how hard to replace it? I now it's different when you spin the engine manually and when you start the car.maybe it's not going to skip the tooth when the car starts.
Old 06-10-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Cadillacby
I did exactly as you said. When I rotate crankshaft I can see how the chain jump the tooth. One time I did everything until step 6 turn 1/4 turn, I can turn the engine like 7 times, after I did turn 1/4 turn, and turn the crankshaft chain skipped again. I can clearly see it. Is it possible this chain become stretched? And how hard to replace it? I now it's different when you spin the engine manually and when you start the car.maybe it's not going to skip the tooth when the car starts.
It should not be skipping at all, especially when turning it by hand. Is the chain still tensioned? I think you may be hearing the tensioner piston pop, it's only pretensioned with a spring. It needs oil pressure to fully tension the chain. the tensioner will compensate for some chain stretch, it's possible but I don't think it's very likely. When you say you turned it a quarter turn and it skipped, was it locked when you were tightening it? Send me a pm and Ill give you my number to see if I can help.
Old 06-10-2014, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mkongsiri
It should not be skipping at all, especially when turning it by hand. Is the chain still tensioned? I think you may be hearing the tensioner piston pop, it's only pretensioned with a spring. It needs oil pressure to fully tension the chain. the tensioner will compensate for some chain stretch, it's possible but I don't think it's very likely. When you say you turned it a quarter turn and it skipped, was it locked when you were tightening it? Send me a pm and Ill give you my number to see if I can help.
When I sad 1/4 turn I meant this:
"Reinstall the camshaft adjuster retaining bolts. First torque them to 30 lb/ft, then60 lb/ft, then tighten them another ¼ turn." I tighten the bolt to 30 lb/ft then 60 lb/ft than I turn the crankshaft around 7 times without any problems, after I thought finally I'm good, I tighten it another 1/4 turn. Another crankshaft turn and chain skipped.
Old 06-11-2014, 07:20 AM
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Got the right side taken apart, looking at the cam holes they seem to both be at a 45 degree angle facing towards the middle of engine. Originally when I opened Left side to put on cam locks the cam holes were facing straight up and had no problem installing tool on that side. So does this mean that everything is out of time? Left side is still locked with non chain. Should I turn the crank and try to get right side holes straight up and down and put tool on? I always thought that the cam holes on both sides of motor should be exactly the same position thanks for any advice again.
Old 06-11-2014, 08:19 AM
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Also I can only turn the engine clockwise, turned it 1/8 of a turn and the cam holes on right side turned further away from straight up and down. Tried to turn crank counter clockwise but couldn't. Should I do full turn or howmany ever it takes for cams to do a full rotation so I'm able to lock them assuming that would be the right position for correct timing?? Thanks


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