pcamaj

no problem man, yeah, just make sure its the purge Valve. it looks like it is N80 thats what i have in the work order.

maybe someone in here who has ETKA part diagrams can show you where it is exactly located and you can replace it yourself. it says that it took them 2 hours to replace it.... hmm idk sounds a bit too much...

good luck.

jhalee0214

Hello,

I ordered the part and I finally replaced it couple weeks ago!!
HOWEVER, the check engine light does not go away

Now, I have driven almost a hundred mile after I changed it and I also went to the local car shop and
told them to turn the check engine light off. But it came back again.....

What should I do...??
Do I have to reset the ECU? Would that be help?

Thanks

am_ver

If you did do a CEL reset then it sounds to me that your replacing the purge valve did not resolve the issue. Best would be to get it reset using VAG tool - to make sure that it has been reset.

You can test your valve using attached instructions.

pcamaj

If the vag com is not available try ur luck and disconnect the main battery for a Few minutes..... The old school way might do it....

AudiVWSkodaOwner

I am trying to resolve the same issue. My car is Audi A6 C6 2006 S-Line, 3.2 FSI.

The EVAP gets me 16.8 Ohms (the PDF above states range 22 Ohms to 30 Ohms)
The Pin 1 to GND when engine running is 13.6V but documents says it should be zero Voltage.
The pin 2 to GND gets me around 4.45V.

So, I guess I have a short somewhere on harness to ground OR the EVAP canister purge regulator Valve is bad since it shows 16.8 Ohm instead of 22 ro 30 Ohm?

AudiVWSkodaOwner

Well, I bought a new Purge valve. Replaced it. Reset fault codes. I drove the car for 250 miles/5 days and the fault code came back again. Is there a chance that it is vacuum leak elsewhere or it might be an electrical problem (the ECU contacts or harness)?

c6grocerygetter!!

ive got the same problem new purge valve new gas cap cant find a vaccum leak im leaning toward the leak detection pump now..... or driving it off a cliff,,,

oaktreelimb

I would check for broken vacumm line from intake manifold to leak detector pump. Most likely broken area is at front of left engine head.

whit3Knight

I have the same problem. Engine light comes on and goes off after a few hundred miles. The ordeal has been quite a nuisance. I took it in about six months ago to Audi and they said the diagnostic computer said I had a "gross intake leak". So I they charged me $400 to run a smoke test to check for leaks. No luck. The techs then switched out my fuel pump with a known good pump and they were unable to get the computer to communicate with the pump. So in the end they could not pin point the cause. They told me it could possible be my Engine computer because some dealership in Chicago experienced this problem and fixed the issue by replacing the part but it would cost me upwards of $1700. So Ive just been driving around with 5cents worth of electrical tape over the light. I hope this thread can shed some light on possible solutions because I'm out of reasonably priced options.

occhis

I have been battling the same issue for several months now. Voltage and resistance tests all in allowable range. The hose to the LDP in the wheel well was kinked so I re-routed it slightly so that it was not bent. Light stayed off for over 2000 miles, which was much longer than it had ever stayed off since the first occurrence.
Weather got cold and back the light came. Once again removed wheel well and hose looked kinked again. Removed about 2 inches from the hose and thereby eliminated the kink.
I am going to inspect the hose to LDP in engine compartment and do the soapy water test next. What at PITA!