wtmmm

I agree

AndreNY

I used to own a 2008 S6 white/white i miss this car, had it for about a year and 10k Miles had ZERO issues with it, it sounded amazing and drove fantastic, the only reason i sold it too soon was the power or should i say the lack off, for being a V10 it was quite slow, but if that doesn't bother you go for it, those Seats are the best BTW

lliejk

168,000 Other than Tires, Brakes, Rotors and Oil/Filter and Alignments I have done very little to her. Two inner front CV Boots, one I am doing now, two sets of upper control bushings, one done by the shop, the other by me (I love pinch bolts!), Sway Bar end links and Coolant overflow bottle.

That's about it. I know I will need to deal with coils/injectors/seals at some point, but I drive it hard on a regular basis and I think that keeps the carbon issue at bay

Ed

Oneplank

As I approach 140,000 miles on my 2007 S6, I was wondering how much longer I can keep the car running. While searching I found this thread. Nothing like reviving a thread that has been sleeping comfortably for 6 years. I am the third owner of this car and I purchased it in 2015 with 85,000 miles. Other than some light rust on the rocker panel behind the front wheels and the bottom edges of the front doors, it looks pretty good. Just like any car, it will require oil and filter changes, tires, spark plugs, and brakes. Yes parts are more expensive, but its not like what airplane parts cost.

Here are the parts that I have replaced in case it helps anyone (can't say what happened in the first 85K):

Cooling system:
These motors run HOT. Any plastic near the top of the engine will fail due to heat.
-Coolant resevoir
-Top degas hose from resevoir
-Upper radiator hose (plastic fitting on end exploded while getting on the highway, it was quite a sight)

Electrical
-Headlight module (AFS) ($800 dealer part, but $20 shipped via ebay used, reprogrammed by VCDS)
-Trunk Latch

Suspension:
-Passenger side inner CV boot
-Both front wheel bearings

Motor (about 80-90% of the total maintenance costs, less consumable parts)
-10 injectors (when one fails staying stuck open, more a sure to follow)
-Intake and JHM spacers (this darn near caused me to sell the car for cost of the intake)
-"Y" charge pipe for intake
-Oil separator (twice)
-PCV tube that connects both heads to oil separator
-Valve cover gaskets
-Oil filter adapter gasket at engine
-Oil level sensor
- Passenger side exhaust flex pipe (not replaced, just wrapped with 6 inch wide header wrap and secured with stainless steel zip ties which keeps it from moving and leaking)

This will likely be the only V10 that I own, so I want to enjoy it as long as possible. Keeping the check engine light off is a challenge. Very small leaks will set a lean misfire at idle. Watching fuel trims is the only way to find them. By 2023 standards, this is not a very fast Audi, but it is still fun to drive.

desertrock

Mine has almost 200k miles. I've owned it for half a year. Having not driven any cars that are faster than this, I can't imagine needing more power. There have been a lot of things I've had to replace, but overall I'm happy that the engine itself seems to be in very good condition, although the engine has been replaced once and has only 100k miles.

The thing that added the most power to it was replacing the intake manifold to a working one with the flaps. It made a profound difference in how it pulls compared to the old gutted manifold. Highly recommended if you can get over the price. Other maintenance related replacement items were:
- spark plugs
- injectors
- air filters
- brakes
- most control arms in the suspension
- one driveshaft
- electrical issues pertaining the throttle bodies - so far resolved with adjusting the pins in the connectors, but it will need a new throttle body sometime in the near future

I have all of JHMs tuning parts installed and clocked 4.8 seconds 0-62mph and this was still with the broken manifold (measured by P-Gear). Have to wait till spring for new measurements.

sswari

I have had mine for just over 18 months, bought it with 82K miles. Second owner, was bought from the same dealer that sold it originally and came with a book of all the service they preformed on the beast .

The misfires started a few months after I brought it home. The one service item they had not done was the carbon cleaning, so I dove in and got started. a few months later and the misfires were back in force.

Some research and I found out that the filter baskets had a tendency to disintegrate into the injectors and cause them to stick open or closed. Went back in pulled the injectors ran them through the ultrasonic cleaner several times, flushed and reverse flushed until they had what seemed to have a decent pattern. Installed new O rings, seals and of course filter baskets total cost less then $100 and the misfires cleared up.
I did also do another round of walnut blasting while I had it apart just for good measure.

For those that have not already just tossed new injectors at their cars, look in to having the serviced and or doing it your self.

As for the other major maintenance I have had to do, the front control arms and sway bar ends were either replaced, or got new bushings. Again, total cost was significantly less then having it done at a shop, buy doing the work myself.
Left hand tail light is now tossing out some short to ground or open codes that I will be chasing down this week.

Still under 100K miles, but not by much.

desertrock

Is the filter basket thing an on-going issue, and by that I mean is there a chance that they just keep clogging the new injectors as well once replaced?

sswari

Hey Desertrock,

Honestly don't know if they fixed it on the OE injectors, or any others for that matter. They guys at Injector Rehab claim the baskets they sell are considerably better and they have not had any complaints.
This is the kit I ordered

https://injector-rehab.com/product/0...r-rebuild-kit/

They do have an all metal basket, but there was a shipping delay when I was doing mine, so I just went with these.

sswari

Also, when I started pulling my injectors apart for cleaning, only one of them had anything that even remotely could have been one of the sides of the basket, all the rest were just the metal top rings.

Oneplank

Honestly don't know if they fixed it on the OE injectors, or any others for that matter.

I do know that the part number was revised when I bought my set of 10 Hitachi injectors. That is one thing that is predictable with Audi; the number of the part stays the same, but the they just change the alphabetic suffix one or a couple letters down on the alphabet. Not sure what they changed. It was hard to swallow the $1800 parts cost. Had I had known that it was the baskets disintegrating, I may have considered rebuilding them, but without a method to test them, you risk a lot of labor removing and installing the manifold. Of course every time you remove and install the intake, you can do it faster.