Robert Schirmer

I kept the original 09L fluid which I believe was green. If I could have changed all 9 liters, I would have gone with the blue. After a couple of weeks now, it DEFINATLY shifts better. Glad I spent a Saturday playing.

hrc4u

nice write up!
must take a look if my fluid is the green or the blue one...took a brief look this summer but coudn't tell if it was green or blue...looked light green/blueish.. ...hmm
does vcds show software version?..
btw..your fluid looks yellow/brown in pic?..
cheers/H

Robert Schirmer

I gave the vin to my Audi dealer and I let him provide the oil. Any mistakes, he can fix it. My oil part #G 060 162 A2. Green...Brown... forgot I'm colorblind! Old oil and new have a different tint anyway.

f10

Any pro/con to doing just a drain and fill vs complete pan drop and filter change? Dealer says software update was not done so I assume I can use the Mercon SP/LV fluid.

cebo0650

WOW! Well done.

I would also attempt this but don't have access to a lift. There is very good independent mechanic in town that I plan to have this done at next year. He races Porsches and only works on German cars.

Prospeeder

man u pump all that in by hand. How exhausting, lol. I Use a fuel pump and jumper box and pump the fluid in, just sit back and change the bottles. lol

saether

Nice write-up, gave me the courage to do the job myself. Just finished the job on a 2006 A6 4.2 with nearly 103k miles. Bought the car about 3 months ago and it was not clear whether the AT fluid had ever been changed (not according to dealership records, at least). The used fluid was very dark. Bought a kit from thectsc.com (6 liters of ZF lifeguard 8 fluid, filter, gasket, drain plug, filler plug gasket).

Small correction on the write-up, the hex for the filler plug is 17mm (not 16mm), at least on mine. I found everything to come off fairly easily, except the drain plug was a bit "mangled" but jammed the torx in there and it came off (good thing the kit came with a new plug - hex this time). The 23 bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan were not tight at all, and I would recomment using a torx screwdriver if you have one to speed things up. As the OP points out, the 3 or 4 ones towards the rear of the vehicle are a bit of a pain - not much room for a ratchet. I ended up using the torx bit only, pushed it in by hand and used an adjustable wrench around the bit to turn them loose. The angle is such that you can almost get a torx screwdriver on them.

Refilling went without problems. 5 liters almost on the dot (which matched the amount coming out). Getting 6 liters for the job is not a bad idea (even though it's expensive stuff) in case you spill and/or get some overflow through the filler hole.

saether

Also found a write-up by ECS Tuning: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...tronic2013.pdf

Polar Express

Just a quick thanks for taking the time to post this up. I'm relatively new to Audi, I love my A6, and just didn't make sense when the local dealer told me "never change the fluid". I'll call in the next couple days to get a quote for them to change it, and see if they do a 'full change' or just the ~5L of the change you outlined here.

Again, big thanks!!

PE

FL C6.5 Avant

Nice write up and it's good to not be intimidated by a DIY on a job that the dealer says never needs to be done.
I would add the following tip:
After filling until it just starts to dribble in park at idle , put the fill plug back in BEFORE killing the ignition. If you don't about 2.5 to 3L will spill out.....