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Weird throttle movement

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Old 05-15-2017, 09:09 AM
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Default Weird throttle movement

Hi, I am trying to solve this intermittent issue with throttle body, any idea and/or suggestion is more than welcome.
I have 07 a6 3.2Q auto and the issue is throttle body opening and closing on its own. When acting up cold the rpm would move between 1800 and 1200 rpm, as if someone is playing with the gas pedal. When acting up hot, the rpm would stay at about 700, you can hear idle reving up slightly and tb clicking.. when you drive thru all gears you can feel pull for a sec or 2, even thou you keep it steady.. it happens in all gears.
I have checked for vacuum leak with smoke machine and vacuum pump, no leaks. I checked trans group 007 for slip..all good but this issue is in neutral 1st, 2nh 3rd and up.. also there is no fault codes. Replaced tb with known good one.. the same.Adaptation..the same..
There is no rules when this will act up. Sometimes no issues for 2 days, sometimes acts up for a few days, it can start acting up when cold and if it didnt act up later you come back to the car it stars acting.
Is there any readings I can compare when it acts and when its ok?
Please reply if you have any idea what to look for.
Sincerely
NB
Old 05-21-2018, 07:02 AM
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Did you get anywhere with fixing this one Nurke? I replied to you on another thread also before I found this one, so ignore that please.

My car does similar - revs bounce up and down when you're driving with constant throttle and sometimes it's pulling a little even if I'm not touching the throttle pedal. I was thinking a TB replacement might be called for, but from the above post you tried it already on your car without success. When you changed the TB did you replace the seal on the output side of the TB?
Old 05-21-2018, 07:49 AM
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Hi, no I didnt. I got so annoyed by it, gave up and let my wife drive it from then on. Ive got me the same year but 4.2 engine.
If your car does it only when driving, then I would check its Torque Convertor slippage. If you are driving at about 45 and 50 at 1400-1800 rpm and the rpm needle goes up and down for about 200-300rpm then your TC slips. To make sure you would need to have someone drive your car while you monitor its measuring block 007. If you have ross tech or vag401...go to modules...transmission...measuring blocks...type 007...enter...
You will see TC status: open or partially open or closed. The next line will show rpm slippage. You look for it when the status is "closed". It should read 0.00 slip. When it slips the number will be in 32 increases ...like 32 or 64 or 128 and so on...(that number tells you how many RPM it slipped).
Any number over 128rpm slips is a condition called for tc replacement.
What you feel is as if you drive a car with the clutch, slightly press clutch pedal and depress it again while gas pedal stays pressed the same. You will feel loss of momentum then then a pull when you get it back..
BUT I had a chance to drive a car like that....I would not change its TC just for that just yet..I would change trans fluid and filter.
In my case...Im sure Im overlooking something. Im sure if I ever find out what the problem is...it will be very simple...as it usually is. So far, I dont care since my wife is driving it, she thinks Im paranoid supposedly she doesnt hear nor feel anything.
FIIIIINE with me..lol
Old 05-21-2018, 08:48 AM
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Thanks for the reply, I'll do that test with the measuring blocks 007 as it sounds interesting. In my case the problem seemed to start just after I replaced bank 2 upper timing chain tensioner. Not that I think that component has anything to do with it, but to carry out the work I had the air intake hose removed from the TB and I remember having a struggle to get it refitted, so I could have introduced a small leak on one side or the other of the TB as I was twisting that hose around to get it on. I bought another seal for the TB and a spare TB which I didn't get around to fitting yet, so that's my other line of enquiry to pursue.
Old 05-21-2018, 09:47 AM
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You see, now you are get me going to check my car again... TB will work on its own to compensate for something by adding more air or reducing it..I have always felt that theres got to be something with timing and now you have mentioned it. Im going to look at block 90-93 and see what happens there...can you do readings on yours when it acts up? Did you try power shock your cam adjuster solenoids? But then wouldnt we have it constantly??

Last edited by Nurke; 05-21-2018 at 09:48 AM. Reason: .
Old 05-21-2018, 10:27 PM
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I'll look at the block 90-93 when I do that 007 test you mentioned. Haven't touched my cam adjuster solenoids and not keen to

What I do know already about the timing on my car is that my bank 2 was at 0.0 deg following the chain tensioner replacement and bank 1, which I haven't touched, was at around 6 degrees, but I don't know how a small timing differential from one side to the other might cause the throttle to flutter.
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