AudiWorld Forums - 1997-1999 D2 A8 Radiator Support Beam Sort-of-Removal Tips

On the Audi D2 A8, much of the engine work, including the timing belt preventative maintenance replacement work, involves working on the front of the engine, which is practically inaccessible unless you move the radiator support beam out of the way, in which case access is easy. This, plus a few additional steps, is often called "putting the car into the service position." As a prerequisite to moving the radiator support beam, the front bumper and headlights have to be removed. I describe how to do this in other threads on this forum.

Until this week, I had moved the radiator support beam out of the way on two of my D2 A8 cars, and then in the last week or so, I did it on two more D2 A8 cars.There have been some learning opportunities, and some learning that occurred.The basic principle is that the radiator support beam can be moved through close to 90 degrees as if it’s a door opening, with the driver side area serving as a hinge. That provides ease of access for working on the engine -- including removing it, along with the sub-frame, if that's the plan.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...a9abbad010.jpg

It was possible to do this without breaching the refrigerant system.

Prerequisites included first
-- Safety and protection measures for the pointy front fenders, so they don't poke your eye out, and so you don't scratch them
-- Removing the front bumper
-- Removing the headlights

If the plan is to remove the engine with sub-frame, the best time to raise the front is before moving the beam out of the way.

I drained the coolant using a large screwdriver on the blue plastic plug at the bottom driver side of the radiator. Then, I detached the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator. Loosening the hose clamps enabled that. A screwdriver works but a 7mm socket is easier. Coolant tended to continue trickling out of the radiator for a long time,so I had a catch tray handy, plus some paper towels to mop up spillage.

I lifted the power steering fluid reservoir up, out of its position. This allowed the hose between it and the radiator to flex, which fitted my agenda nicely. At the radiator, I undid the Oetiker clamp for the power steering hose that runs to the steering rack. I put a cardboard tube around the open end of the hose.

I undid the three hex bolt that clamped the two transmission fluid lines to the radiator. I put tubes over their open ends, too.

Dry empty half-liter water bottles would be better than cardboard tubes.

It's important to not strain the refrigerant hoses, so to make it easier for them to flex as needed, I undid the 10mm bolt that attaches the horns and their bases. I then undid the wiring clips to the horns and moved them aside.

I photographed and snipped the various ZIP ties,

I undid the A/C electrical connectors.

I detached the air intake guides. They stayed in position, but later when I moved the beam forward, they came loose.

I detached the hood release cable,

By then the coolant was drained, and the only hoses or cables between the radiator support beam and the car were the two refrigerant lines,and one power steering hose, to the reservoir.

I placed a clean black trash can liner over the seat of an office chair, and I supported the weight of the beam on the chair. It had adjustable height controls,which came in handy.

Then, on each side (driver and passenger) I pulled up the square rubber plugs at the front top of the fender, to reveal a hex bolt. I removed that. I also removed the three 13mm bolts that attached the bumper shock.

It was hard ...
- To keep the trash can liner on the seat of the chair, and the beam on the liner. They both kept sliding off.
- To prevent moving the beam in a way that doesn't scratch the pretty paint on the outside of the fender
- To move the beam into the optimal position, but the chair had wheels so that helped.
- To prevent spillage. Tilting the radiator caused fountains of coolant, transmission fluid and power steering fluid.

I hope this article saves you some time & frustration.

As to any damaged parts you notice along the way, please keep my company in mind. We sell used D2 A8 parts, condition guaranteed.

~Tanya