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2000 a8 4.2 akb engine timing chains

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2000 a8 4.2 akb engine timing chains

 
Old 06-25-2018, 12:02 PM
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Default 2000 a8 4.2 akb engine timing chains

I've had a crank no start problem for a month now. The car has ran decent since I bought it two years ago but always gave me codes that made me think the camshafts werent right. It died on me on the way home from work, had it towed home had codes that suggested it was a crankshaft position sensor. Started to back the bolt out and it broke. I had someone attempt to extract it since I'm no good at that stuff and we broke the extractor he ended up re drilling a new hole beside the old one changed camshaft sensors too. It ran great for 3 days, but got code p1340 camshaft position sensor engine speed sensor incorrect correlation. Then it died idling in my driveway. Same way it did before I think I'm getting spark and fuel but I decided to look into the camshafts since I've always felt they have been a problem. When I looked at the notches in the camshaft in the caps they were noticeably out. I set the driver side to 16 rollers and got it in. but the i read it was supposed to be 15 and the notches dont line up when correct?? Anyone have useful info on this for the akb engine so i can continue troubleshooting? Also it may be a stupid question the cap arrow and the camshaft notch can appear in or out depending on your orientation to them i tillt my head so id be looking at them at the same angle theyre setting at is this correct?

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Old 06-28-2018, 08:40 AM
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With tension on the chain (adjuster tool removed) and the arrows lined up with the camshaft slots, which look correct in your photos, the chain link count has to be correct ... it looks closer to 15 than 16 in your photo (chain link count rarely lines up "exactly").

To be clear, the engine speed sensor ("crank position") reading head was returned to the original hole ... it not only reads engine speed, but timing also (timing cutout on the drive plate).

Assuming that all other timing checks are correct (belt pulleys, crank pulley, etc ..), I think I'd be looking at both camshaft position sensors on the heads.
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:19 PM
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Thanks Silver I'm pretty sure the chains didn't jump. I rotated the engine so that the camshaft lock bar would go on. Then I installed the crankshaft bolt and noticed that on both banks the lower camshafts notches were center with the arrow on the cam caps, but the upper camshafts notches were just outside of the the arrows the pics are from after I changed bank 2 to where the notches lined up. I put it back to the way it was because I know it ran like that for the two years I had it and was getting conflicting info on the marks and chain links and read people saying that the bently was wrong on the proper alignment for them. I figured it wasn't a job to do while I had a crank no start problem (if it ran that way before). I decided to do what I should have done to begin with test for spark and fuel turns out I'm getting spark. I'm not sure if that means it's not a sensor causing my problems I read that the computer will disable the engine by not providing spark but I'm not sure if that's true. But I did test for lack of fuel and shooting starting fluid in the hole before the throttle body did let the engine run for a few seconds then stall out. I hooked a fuel pressure gauge into then connection that's coming off what i'm finding is called the purge valve because it had an actual connection I could hook into and it had fuel pressure coming out towards the fuel rail when I un-hooked it to check the timing chains and I got a reading of 20 psi cranking with no start, But from what I understand that should be a return line? So I put a T in right before the fuel pressure regulator and got lucky enough to have the car run for about ten minutes but 0 pressure there. Isn't that backwards?
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:18 PM
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Ok I found some useful info on the regulator. It works by backing up pressure in the return line excess pressure is let off back to the gas tank is this correct? What's been making this troubleshooting process a headache is that whatever is causing the no start isn't completely faulty yet it's failing. It will work then not work I want to test the fuel pump but I done that before by jumping it straight from the battery and it ran. Which doesn't mean that it always runs and isn't the problem. Iv'e looked that job up and it seems like a headache. I guess I need to wait for whatever it is that's failing to fail again before I can figure it out.
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Old 06-29-2018, 02:06 PM
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Well today I had it hooked up to the supply into the fuel rail and I was wrong about the purge valve being on the supply line they were twisted around in the rubber piece that holds them together. It was running great had like 55 psi and ran like that for about 15 minutes then the gauge started jumping around like crazy and lowering. Eventually stalled out and died the new pump should be here tomorrow or Monday I'm just glad I finally figured it out. I'm hoping it's not a half tank problem I've seen posted about on here.
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Old 06-30-2018, 04:32 AM
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Yeah my fuel pump just died and it worked fine for a few restarts after I stalled out twice, and actually worked OK when I bench tested it after replacement. However it was pretty worn out when I tore it down. Installing is not crazy difficult, I can supply some tips.

If you got a VDO pump that's important, there are some listed on ebay with the right PN but won't work, nope nope nope.
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:42 AM
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Hey jfrahm, I ordered VDO 4D0906091C from europarts.com. I could have swore I checked the box to pay for two day shipping but the email they sent me said it was shipped UPS ground so I wont have it till Tuesday.. Can you actually reach in from the left side and feel that the other connection is made?
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:27 PM
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I cannot, I can only grab and wiggle the hoses like some people do. Maybe my arms are too mighty to get them down in there far enough.

IMO if you dab a little petroleum jelly on the male, um, hose barb, it's pretty easy to drop it into the receiver and if you take it easy it'll work out.
The main issue is that the weight of the assembly is offset and so it wants to be cocked in there and not leveled up so the barb can poke down into the part that lives in the tank. That part moves around a bit and also has a funnel top to make it easier to guide in the part on the fuel pump assembly. Also the rotation of the assembly when you work it down into the tank seems important, Take note of the clock position of something like the return line barb when the assembly is about to come out (having been lifted and rotated) so you can try to insert it in reverse. If that fails just pull it out all the way and try again if for some reason it seems like it just wont clock into place and level up.

You can see what you need to do to reinstall if you put your head over the hole where the fuel pump assembly was but be careful not to blow your breath into the gas tank as a LOT of fuel vapor will come back out.
If you refit the assembly with the neck gasket out it is pretty easy to get it to drop into place, flat and flush. Then you can lift it straight up 30mm and work that gasket in around it, it seems too large in diameter but it'll eventualy get worked in there. Reseat the assembly with a small prybar (not too hard) to feel it settle with the gasket in place once it's in and pretty straight and maybe 5mm shy of being bottomed. The hardline/banjo bolt should be easy to bolt in because the assembly is dropped all the way in, clocked right, and level. If it's too high or not flat the banjo bolt will want to cross thread. The long bolt should thread easily also, it does not need to be very tight. I do up the 17mm banjo bolt last after the ring is tight having only hand-fitted it before. The long bolt does not thread into a blind nut on the fuel tank but rather an insert in another plastic assembly that lives in the tank so be creful not to monster on it as it'll probably break that blind nut loose and put a crack in it which will prevent the scavenging system from working, plus it won't seal that gasket.

Once you have the assembly in and hooked up you can start and run the car with the level sensor still out and see bubbles, gas movement, etc in the scavenge system on that side of the tank, you can see the other one from the other side if you feel like pulling that sender assembly also.

If the fuel level is low such that the fuel cup does not flood just from dropping it in you have to add (I think) at least a gallon via the filler neck to refill the fuel cup and bleed out the scavenge system. I added less and the car ran but did not really scavenge and started stumbling when I tried to move it. Then I added about a gallon, then I could actually put it in gear and drive. Had me worried!

When ebay had a 15% off coupon the best deal I found on the pump was Partscontainer for $128 shipped after coupon.
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Old 06-30-2018, 02:00 PM
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Thanks for the info I'm going to wait till I have the pump before I start so I don't forget how something came out and I'm going to use a paint marker to line everything back up. I'll post how it goes when I get it Tuesday. I hope It comes by Tuesday because if I don't get it by then it will probably be Thursday with the holiday. I emailed them asking why I paid extra for two day shipping and they shipped it UPS ground but I probably wont get a reply until Monday.
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:18 AM
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Well I got the pump yesterday and it took me awhile to do it I'd say about 4 hours maybe but I took a lot of breaks the most difficult part was turning the level sensor disk with the two holes my home made tool bent after a quarter inch turn. Upside down needles nose pliers were actually giving with out budging it I was starting to tear the holes up. So I drizzled some Dawn around the top and moved it back to the locked position and the quarter inch it would turn a few times then it turned the rest of the way no problem. The big ring was froze too so I had to inch it off by butting a hex head up to it on an extension, and tapping it with a hammer.. Doing the actual swapping of the pump wasn't a big deal when it came to putting it back I couldn't get the last half of an inch or so without taking your advice and taking the big gasket off took less then ten seconds after that to get it seated and probably 5 minutes to work the gasket back in. The guy in the video I watched put it on first. Had some trouble getting the banjo bolt back on but eventually got it. Part of the problem was one of the bulged out parts of the big black threaded ring was in the way so I went ahead and tightened it down to where it had been to begin with. Still had some trouble getting it started but it went on. I have a quarter of a tank and it's running fine I received my boroscope today but since it seems like it's running fine I don't think I'll take a look inside. Thanks for the tips the part about the gasket at end got it done. Btw I didn't get a gasket kit. Mine seemed fine I guess it would be necessary in some instances. Def not the worst job to do but if I ever have to do it again I'm not going to do it when it's 90's F out. I sweat out more beer then I was putting in. Hopefully this one last over 210k miles like the old one did.
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