terak0306

So, just thought I would share my experience for those who have debated this in the past.

Bought my A8 a few months back. Previous owner stated tranny was rebuilt. When I was driving it, it would have some hard downshift when coming to a stop. And occasionally it would go into safe mode. So I figured it was safe to say whoever rebuilt the tranny didn't know what they were doing.

As the weather gets colder, issues get worse.

So, fearing the tranny was rebuilt incorrectly I decided to go for the Hail Mary and do a fluid/filter change. After this I recommend anyone buying a used audi to make this first on their to do list.

Read up on the procedure. Seemed straight forward enough. I will say mechanically I was able to change the fluid and filter with no issues at all. So any seasoned garage mechanic should be able to do this easily.

But.....wait for it.....when I drained the tranny fluid it was RED!!!!! Not only was it RED, but measuring what I was able to drain, I got a whole whopping 3 QUARTS OUT!!!! I know it's not leaking anywhere asthe car is parked in my garage. So whoever did the tranny not only put the WRONG fluid in, but they also didn't fill it properly. Following the procedure, it took 8 quarts. Not the 3 I drained.

Anyways, since the change the car purrs like a kitten. No shifting issues, no limp mode issues.

Gotta love the transmission shops, number one in the we will screw you every chance we get catagory.

Hopefully no long term damage from being low and the wrong fluid. Anyone have any experience of these cars having the wrong fluid in them???

silverd2

NOT THAT I WOULD RECOMMEND IT, but a lot of people have used other than OEM atf with no issues...all colors...don't know how or if it affects the trans long term, though. I used OEM.

I doubt anything about your tran's behavior was due to the fluid type...it's amazing it worked at all that low on atf.

The lesson you learned (and shared..thanks) is with ANY odd behavior, check the atf level first, leaks or no leaks...no telling what idiot has been there before.

I purchased my D2 years ago at 35K miles, still under warranty (CPO), so have never had to deal with past mistakes. My wife's Allroad, on the other hand, is a different story...she's had it almost 2 years, purchased at 75K miles (1 owner), and to this day I am still dealing with the stupidity and incompetence of the 1st owner and/or his "mechanic". Yesterday, I back-flushed a clogged heater core and found the brown sludge uniquely produced by mixing other coolants with pink G-12...on closer inspection, I found the same settling in the reservoir I replaced new about a year ago...pulled and flushed that, too. The current coolant is the correct G-12 pink, but someone has either topped with wrong product or done a simple drain & fill from wrong to G-12 some time in the past, without a flush. So, in the coming weeks, I've got to do a full chemical flush and refill with fresh G-12. Thanks, past dumbass

yrk2.7t@curbside

I know that the amsoil atf that meets audi specs is red. But certainly being 5 quarts low would cause some problems.

I'm glad you tried the old flush and fill method before doing anything else.

dreamhope

Today I noticed that my car shifts hard from 3rd into 4th. There's no strong jerk, but with the audio off I can feel that the shift is more noticeable. The same is true for downshift from 4th to 3rd, though less obvious.

I read somewhere that it could be clutch B. Any thoughts?

I got my car @98k kms for only €3000, so I wouldn't be surprised if it has issues. I've put 2500 kms on it, and it's quite fine. If this problem could be sorted out I'd have more peace of mind.

Also, just how hard should a hard shift be considered a problem? I'm rather sensitive, and I do tend to notice most automatic transmission shifts.

dreamhope

Btw, do you guys think it could be the MAF sensor? I ran VCDS again and found 17547 and 17545 (System too rich). This is after I cleared the codes a month ago. There's no symptom from the engine (idle is fine, acceleration is smooth) except that fuel consumption is high (17.3 mpg, got into Paris only once; average speed as per the trip computer is 23 mph - or is this because of low speed? I drive prudently fast, but got stuck in traffic jams a couple of times and sat some time).

dreamhope

I logged some data with VCDS; I'm lost:

I logged group 005, 006, and 018. 005 has RPM RPM Mass_Flow and Bin. Bits. 006 has RPM Mass_Flow Mass_Flow and Bin. Bits. 018 has Segment Corr.

The thing is Mass Flow readings were negative. Is mass flow different from mass air flow (I didn't find a group with that measure)?

Here are some examples:

Group B: '006
RPM Mass Flow Mass Flow Bin. Bits
TIME
Marker STAMP /min g/s g/s
9.94 0 -35.52 -1.24 0 0 0
11.09 130 0 -1.24 0 0 0 started engine
12.23 1170 0.25 -1.24 0 0 0
13.38 1200 -0.18 -1.24 0 0 0
14.51 1160 -0.63 -1.24 0 0 0
15.64 1090 -0.83 -1.24 0 0 0
33.01 1000 0.04 -1.24 0 0 0 first positive number
72.5 1000 1.76 -1.24 0 0 0 highest positive number
138.81 960 -0.03 -1.24 0 0 0 negative again
1 145.89 960 -0.2 -1.24 0 0 0
147.04 970 -0.22 -1.24 0 0 0 pulled off
152.9 880 0.29 -1.24 0 1 0 positive
173.8 1060 0 -1.24 0 1 0 first zero
3 1074.61 730 0.13 -1.24 0 0 0
1075.77 740 0.1 -1.2 0 0 0 pulled off the third time, the first MF reading had been 0 all the time except coming to a full stop or pulling off; the second MF reading had been -1.24 all the time
1076.91 770 0.13 -1.16 0 0 0
1078.06 760 0.08 -1.12 0 0 0
1079.19 760 0.07 -1.11 0 0 0 first time -1.11
1694.84 1070 0 -1.23 0 1 0 -1.23

dreamhope

got another group. now makes sense:
Mass flow first reading (presumably actual) is 10% of theoretical value under low (and reach theoretical value when load is below 20%). Lambda 0.9 throughout the run.

RPM Load Ign. Timing Mass Flow Mass Flow Lambda Factor
/min % °ATDC g/s g/s
2760 72.5 18.8 9.14 80.28 0.891
3320 75.3 19.5 10.06 107.22 0.899
3800 75.3 21.8 11.27 131.25 0.899

dreamhope

Swapped in a new MAF sensor and basically it produces the same readings as the old one, on several runs. Fortunately I get free return policy.

This is weird, but if I warm up the car, take a break, and drive again, lambda factor goes from 0.91 (first ride of the day) to 0.96 (restart with warm engine). Now I seriously suspect it's the fuel pressure regulator.

Also, if started with a warm engine, all transmission hesitation problems and hard shifts are gone. The car also feels a little more powerful.

dreamhope

took off the centre piece of the engine cover and was surprised to find the front breather hose to be mostly torn.

will replace and see. 077103221E

dreamhope

taped temporarily and lambda factor reading reaches normal for the first time; all transmission issues are gone as well.

already ordered from http://www.online-teile.com/audi/