A8 d2 4.2 no start
#1
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A8 d2 4.2 no start
Good evening felow d2 owners.
I have a 2000 4.2 with starting issues. Started suddenly and without any warning signs a few days ago.
No codes at all in any modules. Good tacho signal, no immobilizer codes etc.
4 bars of fuel pressure
Spark
No injection
What the devil am I missing? What could be wrong
I have a 2000 4.2 with starting issues. Started suddenly and without any warning signs a few days ago.
No codes at all in any modules. Good tacho signal, no immobilizer codes etc.
4 bars of fuel pressure
Spark
No injection
What the devil am I missing? What could be wrong
#2
AudiWorld Member
Did it just die while you were driving, or did you come out to it and just wouldn't start? I wouldn't think a cam/crank sensor because you have spark. Maybe a blown fuse for the fuel injection?
#3
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Timing belt is fine
Fuel pressure is between 3 and 4 bars when cranking
No codes at all
#4
Beeping? Maybe an aftermarket alarm/immobilizer? That does not sound stock.
I'd try some starting fluid, it's easy to spray a bit into a vacuum line if you do not want to take the airbox lid off. If it catches/runs I'd check the fuel pump despite your fuel pressure reading.
I'd try some starting fluid, it's easy to spray a bit into a vacuum line if you do not want to take the airbox lid off. If it catches/runs I'd check the fuel pump despite your fuel pressure reading.
#5
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You should also see roughly battery voltage between one of the two wires at the fuel injectors and ground with the key in the RUN position. The ECU triggers the injectors by switching the ground side to earth. So one of the two wires should always be HOT while in RUN. A noid light slipped in to the back of the wires would confirm the injector signal is pulsing as it should.
Never heard a beeping sound from mine in almost 15 years of ownership. I agree it could be an aftermarket alarm.
When you put the key in, turn to RUN - not cranking- just RUN, are you getting a CEL (Check Engine Light). You should. It is powered by the ECU. If it wasn't on I'd suspect the ECU isn't getting power either.
All the fuses in the underhood electrical box and in the cabin good?
Never heard a beeping sound from mine in almost 15 years of ownership. I agree it could be an aftermarket alarm.
When you put the key in, turn to RUN - not cranking- just RUN, are you getting a CEL (Check Engine Light). You should. It is powered by the ECU. If it wasn't on I'd suspect the ECU isn't getting power either.
All the fuses in the underhood electrical box and in the cabin good?
#6
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You should also see roughly battery voltage between one of the two wires at the fuel injectors and ground with the key in the RUN position. The ECU triggers the injectors by switching the ground side to earth. So one of the two wires should always be HOT while in RUN. A noid light slipped in to the back of the wires would confirm the injector signal is pulsing as it should.
Never heard a beeping sound from mine in almost 15 years of ownership. I agree it could be an aftermarket alarm.
When you put the key in, turn to RUN - not cranking- just RUN, are you getting a CEL (Check Engine Light). You should. It is powered by the ECU. If it wasn't on I'd suspect the ECU isn't getting power either.
All the fuses in the underhood electrical box and in the cabin good?
Never heard a beeping sound from mine in almost 15 years of ownership. I agree it could be an aftermarket alarm.
When you put the key in, turn to RUN - not cranking- just RUN, are you getting a CEL (Check Engine Light). You should. It is powered by the ECU. If it wasn't on I'd suspect the ECU isn't getting power either.
All the fuses in the underhood electrical box and in the cabin good?
Thanks for the replies
The beeping occurred when it was idling outside the MOT shop. Did not have any affect on the engine it just popped up in my memory that it did. But after I shut it down a little later I couldn’t start it again. Absolutely nothing extra has been added to this car since new so no fancy aftermarket immobilizer.
I can provoke this beep again if I disconnect a sensor and it sets a code. Then it goes off beeping 2 or 3 times while cranking. I think this is normal.
I also confirmed battery voltage in one pin on every plug on the injectors. (Other pin to direct ground when measuring). It is if the ECU is missing a trigger signal, there is spark and fuel pump turns on.
It has all the fuel it needs on the rail and checked pressure at the pump and just before the rail. 4 bars and good flow in a bottle.
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies
The beeping occurred when it was idling outside the MOT shop. Did not have any affect on the engine it just popped up in my memory that it did. But after I shut it down a little later I couldn’t start it again. Absolutely nothing extra has been added to this car since new so no fancy aftermarket immobilizer.
I can provoke this beep again if I disconnect a sensor and it sets a code. Then it goes off beeping 2 or 3 times while cranking. I think this is normal.
I also confirmed battery voltage in one pin on every plug on the injectors. (Other pin to direct ground when measuring). It is if the ECU is missing a trigger signal, there is spark and fuel pump turns on.
It has all the fuel it needs on the rail and checked pressure at the pump and just before the rail. 4 bars and good flow in a bottle.
Thanks for the replies
The beeping occurred when it was idling outside the MOT shop. Did not have any affect on the engine it just popped up in my memory that it did. But after I shut it down a little later I couldn’t start it again. Absolutely nothing extra has been added to this car since new so no fancy aftermarket immobilizer.
I can provoke this beep again if I disconnect a sensor and it sets a code. Then it goes off beeping 2 or 3 times while cranking. I think this is normal.
I also confirmed battery voltage in one pin on every plug on the injectors. (Other pin to direct ground when measuring). It is if the ECU is missing a trigger signal, there is spark and fuel pump turns on.
It has all the fuel it needs on the rail and checked pressure at the pump and just before the rail. 4 bars and good flow in a bottle.
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#8
I'd still try starting fluid to see if it's fuel you are missing. It's easy to spray some into a vacuum line near the N112 valve aft of the oil fill cap.
What do the plugs look like? Do they get wet and smell like gas after trying to start?
What do the plugs look like? Do they get wet and smell like gas after trying to start?
#9
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Well I’ll be damned...
For some reason it started up like nothing ever happened after I checked the crank sensor and wiring in the ECU/transmission ECU box.
I took out the crank sensor while connected and I cranked the engine over. Sets a code so that leaves out and errors in the sensor.
Could it be bad soldering inside the ECU maybe?
I will try to wiggle some wires tomorrow and hopefully I can make it shut down
For some reason it started up like nothing ever happened after I checked the crank sensor and wiring in the ECU/transmission ECU box.
I took out the crank sensor while connected and I cranked the engine over. Sets a code so that leaves out and errors in the sensor.
Could it be bad soldering inside the ECU maybe?
I will try to wiggle some wires tomorrow and hopefully I can make it shut down
#10
If it's got a crank signal you can usually see the tachometer move a bit when cranking. ECU maybe got wet? Do you have cowl drain issues?
The fuel pump can get weird when it is about to die. And they die somewhat early compared to other cars, maybe 'cause they work so hard with the fuel tank scavenging system.
The fuel pump can get weird when it is about to die. And they die somewhat early compared to other cars, maybe 'cause they work so hard with the fuel tank scavenging system.