Another start up problem again
04-11-2016, 08:32 PM
#52
AudiWorld Senior Member
Oh for the love of god man. Native English speaker? Your remarks read like a dictionary in a blender....focus. How the hell did you do a compression test? You need to remove a spark plug (better still all 8), insert a threaded compression tester all the way down into that deeply recessed hole. Then crank that sunuvabitch with the throttle wide open. Record all 8 readings dry, then wet with a tablespoon of oil for the cylinders with low readings and see if they change. How did you do it, what numbers did you get on the pressure gauge? I think you may have misspoke. You were actually checking the sparkplugs for spark, yes?
Better still don't do a compression test, but fix the IGNITION problem. You've got no spark. If this car is 1999 or older, swap out both Power Output Stages (POSs)...there are two of them. That will most likely solve your no spark condition as you have already swapped out a crank position sensor which tested good, and your ignitions coils. You get no codes, but the car won't start. What will cause that? Other than dead POSs, a faulty ignition switch could also cause a problem. A corroded ignition switch can cause power to some circuits to drop out whilst cranking. At that point, the computer records no errors because it is momentarily asleep. Miatas were infamous for it. A quick check is to observe the Check Engine Light while cranking. It should stay on while cranking until the engine starts or gets close to it. If that light goes out the moment you start cranking, further investigation of the ignition switch MIGHT be warranted.
You mentioned your mechanic replaced a crank position sensor that he tested as a known good one with a scope. He needs to look elsewhere. You don't need a different car, but maybe a different mechanic.
Better still don't do a compression test, but fix the IGNITION problem. You've got no spark. If this car is 1999 or older, swap out both Power Output Stages (POSs)...there are two of them. That will most likely solve your no spark condition as you have already swapped out a crank position sensor which tested good, and your ignitions coils. You get no codes, but the car won't start. What will cause that? Other than dead POSs, a faulty ignition switch could also cause a problem. A corroded ignition switch can cause power to some circuits to drop out whilst cranking. At that point, the computer records no errors because it is momentarily asleep. Miatas were infamous for it. A quick check is to observe the Check Engine Light while cranking. It should stay on while cranking until the engine starts or gets close to it. If that light goes out the moment you start cranking, further investigation of the ignition switch MIGHT be warranted.
You mentioned your mechanic replaced a crank position sensor that he tested as a known good one with a scope. He needs to look elsewhere. You don't need a different car, but maybe a different mechanic.
Last edited by BrianC72gt; 04-12-2016 at 07:30 PM.
04-13-2016, 07:27 AM
#53
AudiWorld Member
Oh for the love of god man. Native English speaker? Your remarks read like a dictionary in a blender....focus. How the hell did you do a compression test? You need to remove a spark plug (better still all 8), insert a threaded compression tester all the way down into that deeply recessed hole. Then crank that sunuvabitch with the throttle wide open. Record all 8 readings dry, then wet with a tablespoon of oil for the cylinders with low readings and see if they change. How did you do it, what numbers did you get on the pressure gauge? I think you may have misspoke. You were actually checking the sparkplugs for spark, yes?
Better still don't do a compression test, but fix the IGNITION problem. You've got no spark. If this car is 1999 or older, swap out both Power Output Stages (POSs)...there are two of them. That will most likely solve your no spark condition as you have already swapped out a crank position sensor which tested good, and your ignitions coils. You get no codes, but the car won't start. What will cause that? Other than dead POSs, a faulty ignition switch could also cause a problem. A corroded ignition switch can cause power to some circuits to drop out whilst cranking. At that point, the computer records no errors because it is momentarily asleep. Miatas were infamous for it. A quick check is to observe the Check Engine Light while cranking. It should stay on while cranking until the engine starts or gets close to it. If that light goes out the moment you start cranking, further investigation of the ignition switch MIGHT be warranted.
You mentioned your mechanic replaced a crank position sensor that he tested as a known good one with a scope. He needs to look elsewhere. You don't need a different car, but maybe a different mechanic.
Better still don't do a compression test, but fix the IGNITION problem. You've got no spark. If this car is 1999 or older, swap out both Power Output Stages (POSs)...there are two of them. That will most likely solve your no spark condition as you have already swapped out a crank position sensor which tested good, and your ignitions coils. You get no codes, but the car won't start. What will cause that? Other than dead POSs, a faulty ignition switch could also cause a problem. A corroded ignition switch can cause power to some circuits to drop out whilst cranking. At that point, the computer records no errors because it is momentarily asleep. Miatas were infamous for it. A quick check is to observe the Check Engine Light while cranking. It should stay on while cranking until the engine starts or gets close to it. If that light goes out the moment you start cranking, further investigation of the ignition switch MIGHT be warranted.
You mentioned your mechanic replaced a crank position sensor that he tested as a known good one with a scope. He needs to look elsewhere. You don't need a different car, but maybe a different mechanic.
04-13-2016, 09:54 AM
#54
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All fixed smh. Took the gas line off at the end of the engine and all that came out was air. Once I let all the air out I cranked it over a few time and she started right up. Wow I can't believe it was air in the line.
04-13-2016, 05:54 PM
#56
AudiWorld Senior Member
I thought that was the case. You were talking about compression and obviously there is compression. I think you meant no combustion. Glad you got it running.
Air in the line is not a deal breaker. The same thing happens when you run out of gas and refill it. I'm betting you still have an intermittent electrical issue or your fuel pump is installed wrong, or you have the wrong pump.
In the future, you can pop the cover off the fuel pump relay. passenger side under your feet, mdf box, slide out the tray holding the FP relay. pop plastic cover off the FP relay. push the contacts closed gently with some folded plastic tubing or a matchbox cover and with the ignition in the "RUN" position, the pump should run continuously. If you can't empty the tank this way, then the pump is installed wrong.
Air in the line is not a deal breaker. The same thing happens when you run out of gas and refill it. I'm betting you still have an intermittent electrical issue or your fuel pump is installed wrong, or you have the wrong pump.
In the future, you can pop the cover off the fuel pump relay. passenger side under your feet, mdf box, slide out the tray holding the FP relay. pop plastic cover off the FP relay. push the contacts closed gently with some folded plastic tubing or a matchbox cover and with the ignition in the "RUN" position, the pump should run continuously. If you can't empty the tank this way, then the pump is installed wrong.
04-15-2016, 04:46 AM
#57
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Honestly I did drive it 5 mile the day before it cut off on me. Then put gas in it. Never thought about an airlock smh. Every mechanic told me something different. My fuel pump is in correctly. Believe me I've took it out and put it back in like 100 times already. It was the cold that held me back from checking it myself. Thank god I got it running again.
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