Any tips on removing fuel pump module ring?
#1
Any tips on removing fuel pump module ring?
I've managed to loosen all the bolts on top of the fuel pump module, but my usual technique of removing the big plastic ring nut (tapping with a screwdriver and mallet against one of the tabs) hasn't budged it, and I don't want to massacre it. Any tips on getting it off? WD40? Kroil? heat gun? or do I have to spring for the special tool (which I will likely never use again...) thanks for any advice
Z
1998 A8Q 140k
Z
1998 A8Q 140k
#3
AudiWorld Member
I just did another one this weekend. Usually it seems to bind up in one particular spot, sometimes on the "front" (harder to reach) edge of the ring, but I find it helps to gently tap on various teeth around the ring, and will generally give it up as you work your way around. I have one of those hardwood-flooring plastic tapping blocks, that seems to reduce the potential for tearing up the teeth... which being too aggressive with the screwdriver can do. WD-40 helps, or silicone spray.
#4
AudiWorld Member
I need to take a picture of my technique sometime, but here is a description to the best of my ability:
Get a dryer duct screw clamp large enough to go around the plastic ring. You could also use two smaller clamps secured together to make the circumference. Secure it, or them, gently around the circumference(yes, it will be a little awkward with the sheet metal in the way). Position it so that the securing screw barrel of the clamp can move at least 45 degrees when the ring moves.
Using two standard 6" flat bladed screw drivers, insert them 180 degrees apart from one another so that the blades are now held captive between the dryer clamp and the plastic ring. The screw drivers will point straight up and you will need to use one hand(or two from an assistant) to keep them upright during the next step. If you were to draw a line through where the screw drivers should be placed, that line would basicially point towards the passenger side rear door.
Finally, and this is where the technique comes in, using a pry bar of about 18-24", insert the prybar in such a way that it pushes against both screw driver shafts as close to the the ring as possible and pull the handle of the prybar so that it makes the ring move in a a counter-clockwise direction.
You can apply a progressive amount of force using this method and you never again have to worry about breaking off a plastic rib from the ring from tapping. The key to this operation is making sure that you keep the screwdrivers perpendicular while applying torque via the prybar. I have pretty big hands so this isn't a problem for me. You may need an assistant to hold the screwdrivers while you apply torque or vice versa. Once the ring breaks torque, it simply spins off like a Coke bottle cap. You can use this same technique to install the ring, just don't get crazy with how tight you make it. In fact, I might use a permanent marker to indicate it's original position so you know you have it torqued enough.
A word of caution when you assemble it back together: take your time, use a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the rubber gasket, and pay particular attention to making sure that the gasket is properly seated before you put the retaining ring back on. Good luck!
Get a dryer duct screw clamp large enough to go around the plastic ring. You could also use two smaller clamps secured together to make the circumference. Secure it, or them, gently around the circumference(yes, it will be a little awkward with the sheet metal in the way). Position it so that the securing screw barrel of the clamp can move at least 45 degrees when the ring moves.
Using two standard 6" flat bladed screw drivers, insert them 180 degrees apart from one another so that the blades are now held captive between the dryer clamp and the plastic ring. The screw drivers will point straight up and you will need to use one hand(or two from an assistant) to keep them upright during the next step. If you were to draw a line through where the screw drivers should be placed, that line would basicially point towards the passenger side rear door.
Finally, and this is where the technique comes in, using a pry bar of about 18-24", insert the prybar in such a way that it pushes against both screw driver shafts as close to the the ring as possible and pull the handle of the prybar so that it makes the ring move in a a counter-clockwise direction.
You can apply a progressive amount of force using this method and you never again have to worry about breaking off a plastic rib from the ring from tapping. The key to this operation is making sure that you keep the screwdrivers perpendicular while applying torque via the prybar. I have pretty big hands so this isn't a problem for me. You may need an assistant to hold the screwdrivers while you apply torque or vice versa. Once the ring breaks torque, it simply spins off like a Coke bottle cap. You can use this same technique to install the ring, just don't get crazy with how tight you make it. In fact, I might use a permanent marker to indicate it's original position so you know you have it torqued enough.
A word of caution when you assemble it back together: take your time, use a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the rubber gasket, and pay particular attention to making sure that the gasket is properly seated before you put the retaining ring back on. Good luck!
Last edited by spitanddirt; 08-27-2018 at 09:35 AM.
#7
I've never needed to go past tapping, however I use a Harbor Freight prybar rather than a screwdriver. I am also not super concerned about the cosmetic results.
Putting a dryer hose clamp on there and hitting the heck out of it might also help.
Putting a dryer hose clamp on there and hitting the heck out of it might also help.
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#8
AudiWorld Member
Made from parts I have lying around. I'm not a good enough welder to weld something up faster than I could make this from predrilled angle iron and 5/16" nuts and bolts. Worked well enough for me.
6" spacing for fuel pump side and 5" for left fuel level sensor side.
6" spacing for fuel pump side and 5" for left fuel level sensor side.
#10
Ultimate Keyboard Warrior
You should see the tutorials with the video for having the clear imagine of the task, but it will all be for nothing, if you don't have the good helmet. I say it to you, because I'm the welder with the great experience. I chose my helmet basing on the article connected to the custom welding helmets, it was https://toolsforme.org/welders/custom-welding-helmets/. My choice fell on the Forney 55702 PREMIER Series Camo Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, and you know, It's the great product. Gets the job done. I was pleasantly surprised when this product came with an additional screen. So even with the first one burns out we still have another one. The helmet is constructed well. And sits very nicely on the head. So nothing disturbs you from the working)