BrianC72gt

You need to be more than a little bit off to loose compression. I believe, like the later engine, there is a notch at the back of the cam sprocket. When you look straight down, the notch should be at TDC when the engine is at TDC. Keep in mind, the crank turns twice for each single revolution of the cam, so if you don't see it, rotate the crank another full revolution.

That said, open the fuel line at the feed side to the rail, add an extension hose, cheap, gas proof, hot wire the pump or push the relay points closed under the passenger's feet and eyeball the flow. Does it look like 45 or so pounds of pressure? Kidding, but if it spits or is anything but forceful and consistent, no bueno.

jfrahm

Good suggestion, a fuel flow test is a quick way to see if fuel is a problem, you can see if it'll mostly fill a 2 liter bottle in under a minute.
Starting fluid also helps, if it'll run more smoothly with a shot of starting fluid that's a big clue and easy to do.

audinutt

Why haven't you done a compression test yet? that wouldn't rule out any timing problems or valve damage due to incorrect timing

Captain Sweeney

So I did all the things recommended most recently. Starter fluid definitely raises the RPMS dramatically, a few solid sprays gives me all the way up to over 5000 RPM.

Next, the fuel line was disconnected at the fuel in to the rail connection, and it filled a half a liter bottle in under 10 seconds, solid flow, no spurting.

Next, here's the codes I got using a much better computer scanner.

P1205
Cyl.5-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction

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P0300
Random/multiple cylinder misfire

P0121
Throttle pedal position sensor switch range performance


And finally, Again, the same side, drivers side, all of them, misfires, plus cylinder 4 on the passenger side.

All of this while running two new ICMs, all great vacuum hoses.

And just something that might help somewhat, iwas working underneath before and a short circuit occurred, the wire going to the top of the oil filter holder, was disconnected and touched the engine below where it was previously connected. Not sure if thats a ground or something more serious.

Captain Sweeney

I will try that next. But i doubt that all one side would be bent just from the starter, because the firing order is much different than that.
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BrianC72gt

Is this the original tank of gas that has been sitting 3 plus years? Starter fluid sprays into the intake manifold get it to run better? Can you get a pressure reading on the fuel flow? If it didn't flow well, then definitetly bad pump or relay, but flow under no resistance isn't conclusive.

Is it possible that half of your injectors aren't opening? Did you have a lot of rain recently? The cowl will flood and short out the ECU. Running better with spray into the manifold and good fuel pump flow and good timing and good spark= injectors not opening, maybe. Or blocked exhaust on that bank. or a Fuel Pressure Regulator failure, but I've never heard of one, not a single one. The starter fluid bypasses the injectors.

Worst case, Don't panic. I've seen 3.7 ecus from 97s on car-parts.com for $65. But that is jumping the gun. Is the exhaust manifold on the drive's side getting hot?

Can you clear codes and see what comes back?

Noid lght will show you if the inectors are firing.

Captain Sweeney

So here's what i know about heat in the exhaust. I know for sure the passenger side gets hotter than the drivers side. Smoke comes from only that side, a friend of mine says that it smells like oil burning for sure, he thinks it's just oil that got on it from work/original owner etc.

There are popping sounds i believe coming from the drivers side. My next order of business is to try and remove the fuel rail and see if the injectors all spray, just turning the starter and holding it up in the air.

We cleared the codes and the throttle one comes back the quickest, followed by the misfire codes and the electrical malfunction one for cylinder 5 injector.

I was thinking just straight pipe it because the car is old enough to not need cats anyway for inspection.

Captain Sweeney

Unfortunately I am going to have to part the Audi out. While I was working on it the other day I noticed a brake fluid leak, and also a coolant and engine oil leak, and with college starting now I can't afford the parts or the time to keep working on it.

I will start posting the easy stuff on eBay, my eBay is matthecaba0. The bigger stuff, like the transmission, will take a little longer to be ready, but if you're in Massachusetts or coming through, you can contact me here, or by email, slogger10101@gmail.com, or you can PM me if you want my phone number for any questions.

I will give you guys priority since you've been a big help through it all. Thanks again.

BrianC72gt

Sorry we didn't get to the bottom of it. Good luck with the sale and most importantly, best of luck with your studies.

audinutt

If you would have done a compression test would be a lot easier to rule that out.
Doesn't take very long at all.