mthorp

I've read a considerable amount regarding the pros/cons of flushing the transmission, and I'm not sure I want to do a full flush given the potential risks. However, I am interested in checking the level of the fluid and adding more if necessary.

Is there an easier way to simply check the level than just pumping until it overflows (using the process documented on audipages)? Some kind of DIY dipstick-type device that can go in through the fill plug and check it? In case I figure out something with a custom dipstick, does anyone have any insight into the normal fluid level (i.e. if I determine the fluid level is about 1 cm below the top of the stand pipe, does that mean I should definitely go through the process of adding more or would that be considered normal)?

Pchelka01

if your talking about a "stealership" flush or some shop that knows nothing about these transmissions than thats garbage, been there done that. If you have over 60k on the fluid than your filter would still be dirty. (filter is only $30).
A dipstick? i think if there was one on the car, garages would make half the profit they do from these cars
Not the expert here,(not even close) but know that the tranny is something you really want to take GOOD care of. Meaning take off the pan and do the change as noted in audipages.

mthorp

I know there's no dipstick on the car itself, I was thinking of crafting something that could go into the fill plug, up over the edge of the stand pipe and check the level.

I understand that there are strong opinions on both sides (whether flushing is a good idea on a transmission that isn't failing), so that's why I'd rather not do it before trying to just top it off (if even necessary).

silverd2

You can NOT possibly check the level without going through most of a change procedure...starting cold, perfectly level car, achieve proper temp after going through gears, etc....then with car still running (running entire time, before replacing plug...otherwise it'll come gushing out when you shut motor off) a finger in the hole or a small dental mirror & flashlight.
In any case, if you don't have extra atf on hand and it's low, what are ya gonna do? ...go through the entire process again another day? There is no more accurate way than the above proper prep and fill till overflow method.
Worth checking level...esp if you have ANY symptom, noise or other trans issue...but no simpler way to do it correctly.

MrMoneyPenny

I am a newly minted Audi enthusiast, not an expert and read all the opinions and decided to do the full flush and filter, pan gasket, seal, change / service, including cutting the filter tube by 1/2" on my 2001 Audi S8 with 56,000 miles on it and I could not be happier.

It works and its smooth as silk and I feel I have peace of mind, considering I will not have access to an expert transmission re-builder here in Asia, if something were to go bad.

People on the transmission flush 'con' camp have argued about the detergent type effect of the ATF to lead to the further degradation, clogging. I just thought that although a valid argument, the 'pro' of the multiple flushes (yes I did 3 - using almost 17L of ATF) to clean it out far outweighed the 'con'. Also I read some extensive commentary around the ZF transmission manufacturers recommended approach and all I can say, I feel comfortable having had the work done.

Time will tell, I intend to keep this car, what happens in the future.

Cheers

silverd2

A lot of that depends on mileage, condition of old atf, sludge found, debris found on magnets. My number 1 concern would be inspecting condition of those items and getting a new filter in there.
The flush is very questionable (IMO). If the atf is burnt or lots of debris on magnets, something has already started failing or pealing away...a flush will not fix that...failure is imminent anyway. If atf is in good shape (not burnt), little debris on magnets and especially low sludge, indicating no atf break down...what's to flush...all is well...filter and refill. With a lot of sludge, maybe a flush to rid broken down atf(?)

After going back and forth for a long time, at 106K miles, I did my filter and atf (NO FLUSH) for a few reasons:

1. A little noise from the pump, indicating a possible restricted filter.

2. Developed very subtle shifting issues that weren't there before, mainly an occasional hard shift from 2nd to 1st coming to a stop.

3. I really wanted to look in there to check conditions.

I found:
-The filter restricted..not totally clogged.
-Proper fill level.
-Good looking atf...not burnt and still had color.
-NO sludge at all in the pan.
-Magnets almost clean...thin coat of gray "powder".

I would have had no problem pumping the same old atf back in with a new filter and been at peace with that..and almost did. But I had the new atf...took 7 liters for correct fill...exactly what came out with a fairly quick pan/filter-off drain.

Results:

-Quieter pump..."whir" didn't go away completely, but was there for years and just got a little louder at the same time shifting "differences" appeared.

-Perfect and smoothest shifting in a long time and NEVER another hard downshift.

Greatest accomplishment was the peace of mind from having seen NO internal issues, except a filter needing replacement. In my case, a flush would have been a waste...nothing indicating the need.

allenst

drop the pan for inspection.
change the filter
1 one litre of new atf
hopefully reuse the drained atf if not burnt and sludged.

Optimusglen

Dude, put new fluid in it. Do it once and do it right.

As far as the dipstick goes, I'll echo what others have said with one alteration.

There is an aftermarket dipstick available for the BMW version of the 5hp24, it's a pipe that screws into the fill plug hole and extends up to the engine bay. Only thing is the fill plug on the BMW 5hp24 is on the side, not up a vertical tube.

5HP24 Dip Stick

That said, with a little ingenuity, someone might be able to fabricate something similar. In the O.P.'s case though, that is significantly more work than a standard drain/fill.

omarcarbomb

the money and hassle of having one rebuilt was all the convincing I needed to begin changing fluid and filter every 25-30K.

I'm more interested in how I could do it myself than dipsticks.

I have it done by shop for one reason only...

I don't feel comfortable with my ability to get car jacked high enough (and level) to drop cats and get under car with room to work.

Has anyone done this with jacks and jack-stands?
I would like to see a DIY on elevating the vehicle in home garage.

S8ilver

I hear you, that's why I took it in to have mine done; that and the output flange seal. I was fully confident in my ability to do both jobs, but not on jack stands. Maybe someday I'll get a lift...maybe even those long ramps that level out that you drive up on. That'd probably do it.

Something like this that levels out: