D2 S8 photos
11-13-2013, 04:44 AM
#2
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What suspension setup are you running? What are the specs on the wheels?
Looks good and I like the push to start button and where it is.
Any other mods other than carbon and wheels/suspension?
Looks good and I like the push to start button and where it is.
Any other mods other than carbon and wheels/suspension?
11-13-2013, 10:08 AM
#3
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Wheels are refinished AME Shallen AX in 19x9 and 19x12, et 5 and et20, respectively. Tires are 215/35 in front and 265/30 in rear, sidewall height is almost identical and within spec for the Torsen. Running 4.5 degrees rear camber, around 1.5 in the front.
Push to start I think looks very OEM in how it's mounted and its location.
Here's a full mod list:
Suspension
Wheels
European trunk lid
OEM-look subwoofer install
True dual exhaust with stainless chambered mufflers, x-crossover, and 150-cell race cats
Shaved repeaters
Push to start and proximity locks (unlocks on approach rather than with the fob
OEM Alcantara headliner swap from a totaled car in Canada
RNS-E navigation with backup camera and AUX input
Rain-sensing wipers and auto-headlights (light sensitive)
European rear seat refrigerator
Headrest TV monitors
Lower dash/glovebox/console sides leather wrapped
Gauge cluster rings
Carbon trim
Footwell lighting that turns on with headlights in OEM-matching red
All interior lighting swapped to LEDs
Foglights operable independent headlight switch
Yellow fogs
Solar sunroof swap
TT gas pedal and VW Phaeton brake pedal covers (brushed aluminum)
I can't think of anything else right now... I usually miss a couple things I've done. I have European bi-xenon lamps that'll make their way into the car soon, and I may go the manual trans route if the auto gives me any trouble.
Here's a pic of the struts and rear bag mounts
The car as I was doing the fenders... All aluminum tigged
European trunk lid and exhaust. Exhaust looks funny in this pic for some reason, it's actually much better looking in person
And the subwoofer enclosure with the fridge installed too
11-14-2013, 05:15 AM
#4
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Repeaters? what are those!?!? LOL
I want to do this SO bad but nervous about pulling everything apart and wiring. Im not the best with wiring and know these cars can be a nightmare!! Did you do it yourself?
UGH! You're killin me!! I want to do this also! Again, how hard to wire? I saw a thread on doing this a while ago but not knowing wiring well, it seemed vague.
yessssssss.... The fridge doesnt look like it takes up as much space i thought....... HMMMMMMMMMMMM.....
11-14-2013, 08:44 AM
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Wow custom built, I like it. In the end was it cheaper and/or better than buying a kit fit for the D2?
At the time the only off the shelf kit was from Bagyard, and around that time they had an ownership change and issues relating to giving people what they'd paid for. I think Hardparker Garage has a kit now, but it's just bags over a stock strut, kinda cheap and not too good. This rides like stock but has the ability to go up and down. The struts are dampening adjustable, too
Difficult to wire in? Have always loved the push button start. This could join the mod list....
Wasn't horrible. Required a way to work around the stock immobilizer
Repeaters? what are those!?!? LOL
the little turn signal lamps
I want to do this SO bad but nervous about pulling everything apart and wiring. Im not the best with wiring and know these cars can be a nightmare!! Did you do it yourself?
Did everything myself other than the tig welding on a couple things. The RNS went in first, then I added the other bits. Wiring sucks, I hate it, but it wasn't the worst.
I would like to see some more pictures of the interior. I want to do dim red lights in the footwells too. Thought that the first time I drove her at night.
I'll try to get some soon for you
UGH! You're killin me!! I want to do this also! Again, how hard to wire? I saw a thread on doing this a while ago but not knowing wiring well, it seemed vague.
I probably was the one who provided the vague info. It was a lot of trial and error, but I got it to work. Then I found out there was a cleaner way to do it all with wiring on the relay itself, requires confidence with a soldering iron, though.
yessssssss.... The fridge doesnt look like it takes up as much space i thought....... HMMMMMMMMMMMM.....
At the time the only off the shelf kit was from Bagyard, and around that time they had an ownership change and issues relating to giving people what they'd paid for. I think Hardparker Garage has a kit now, but it's just bags over a stock strut, kinda cheap and not too good. This rides like stock but has the ability to go up and down. The struts are dampening adjustable, too
Difficult to wire in? Have always loved the push button start. This could join the mod list....
Wasn't horrible. Required a way to work around the stock immobilizer
Repeaters? what are those!?!? LOL
the little turn signal lamps
I want to do this SO bad but nervous about pulling everything apart and wiring. Im not the best with wiring and know these cars can be a nightmare!! Did you do it yourself?
Did everything myself other than the tig welding on a couple things. The RNS went in first, then I added the other bits. Wiring sucks, I hate it, but it wasn't the worst.
I would like to see some more pictures of the interior. I want to do dim red lights in the footwells too. Thought that the first time I drove her at night.
I'll try to get some soon for you
UGH! You're killin me!! I want to do this also! Again, how hard to wire? I saw a thread on doing this a while ago but not knowing wiring well, it seemed vague.
I probably was the one who provided the vague info. It was a lot of trial and error, but I got it to work. Then I found out there was a cleaner way to do it all with wiring on the relay itself, requires confidence with a soldering iron, though.
yessssssss.... The fridge doesnt look like it takes up as much space i thought....... HMMMMMMMMMMMM.....
11-14-2013, 11:11 AM
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11-14-2013, 12:24 PM
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Where is that relay located?!?!
And it says to solder a wire between 14,15,17 but in the picture, it seems like its just soldered to the bottom of the pin?
12 is cut off and left open. Easy enough.
Then take I would assume a decent gauge of wire and connect it to the points that you have cut off?
But 14 isnt cut? So just make contact at the base of the pin?
This will allow me to turn on the fogs no matter what position my lights are in?
Ideally I was trying to run as side/accessory lights and fogs on.
Tell me where to find it!!
And it says to solder a wire between 14,15,17 but in the picture, it seems like its just soldered to the bottom of the pin?
12 is cut off and left open. Easy enough.
Then take I would assume a decent gauge of wire and connect it to the points that you have cut off?
But 14 isnt cut? So just make contact at the base of the pin?
This will allow me to turn on the fogs no matter what position my lights are in?
Ideally I was trying to run as side/accessory lights and fogs on.
Tell me where to find it!!
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11-14-2013, 06:19 PM
#9
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THIS is the one I was thinking of: http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/a4/fogs/fogs.html
Have fun - I will probably take the plunge and do mine (when I go to fix my cruise control module).
Eric
Have fun - I will probably take the plunge and do mine (when I go to fix my cruise control module).
Eric
11-15-2013, 05:22 AM
#10
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thanks for the link!!
hmmm... It seems like it may be a chore to get the module out from behind the glove box??
But If i do it to the wiring, where am i getting the 12v constant ?
As per 71Camaro's post on QW:
"In order to make this all work correctly, I cut the wire running to pin 17 on the foglight control module.I then had switched 12v run to that pin instead(originally it was fed via the headlight switch). I removed the feed to pin 15 and replaced it with switched 12v. In removed the feed to pin 12 and did not replace it (that killed the lights when the high beams operated before, but with a constant feed to pin 15, any power to pin 12 would have been problematic)"
Not sure on the wording there. Is wiring easier to get to?
I have confidence in me being able to open the relay and solder inside, just wondering whats the better/easier route to go.
If i can remove the wires going to it, I would just need to triple check that they are the right wires!!
hmmm... It seems like it may be a chore to get the module out from behind the glove box??
But If i do it to the wiring, where am i getting the 12v constant ?
As per 71Camaro's post on QW:
"In order to make this all work correctly, I cut the wire running to pin 17 on the foglight control module.I then had switched 12v run to that pin instead(originally it was fed via the headlight switch). I removed the feed to pin 15 and replaced it with switched 12v. In removed the feed to pin 12 and did not replace it (that killed the lights when the high beams operated before, but with a constant feed to pin 15, any power to pin 12 would have been problematic)"
Not sure on the wording there. Is wiring easier to get to?
I have confidence in me being able to open the relay and solder inside, just wondering whats the better/easier route to go.
If i can remove the wires going to it, I would just need to triple check that they are the right wires!!