Dead Fuel Pump - I think (1997 A8Q 4.2)
#1
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Dead Fuel Pump - I think (1997 A8Q 4.2)
OK, so I fueled up the other day, jumped on the highway and within a mile or two my car was broken down on the side of the highway. Got it towed back to my yard and when trying to start the car, the engine just cranks, but won't turn over like there's no fuel getting to the engine.
Typically when I turn the key halfway to start, you can hear the pump actuate and send fuel to the engine. But now I don't hear that.
I have a pump ordered and on the way; I purchased a fuel pump relay (just in case); and now I was wondering: is there a simple fuse that could have blown that would prevent the fuel pump from working?
When I turn the key, I can hear the relay clicking by the passenger foot panel. Does a clicking relay necessarily mean that it's in good working condition? I can't plug in the new relay yet because once I do it's non-returnable. So I'm holding off on doing that just yet.
If anyone has a fuse diagram that can show me which fuse is responsible for the fuel pump, that would be great (I don't have an owners manual or a Bentley).
Thanks in advance.
Typically when I turn the key halfway to start, you can hear the pump actuate and send fuel to the engine. But now I don't hear that.
I have a pump ordered and on the way; I purchased a fuel pump relay (just in case); and now I was wondering: is there a simple fuse that could have blown that would prevent the fuel pump from working?
When I turn the key, I can hear the relay clicking by the passenger foot panel. Does a clicking relay necessarily mean that it's in good working condition? I can't plug in the new relay yet because once I do it's non-returnable. So I'm holding off on doing that just yet.
If anyone has a fuse diagram that can show me which fuse is responsible for the fuel pump, that would be great (I don't have an owners manual or a Bentley).
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Fuse panel in right side footwell, 4th row down (blue section) fuse #1 (on right end) 15amp...should be the fuel pump fuse.
In relay panel, under passenger's foot rest...fuel pump relay should be position #6 on right end of row...make sure that's the one that's clicking...don't know if it would click with blown fuse(?).
But clicking indicates the solenoid in it is working, but not necessarily passing current on to the pump (or fuse?)...so doesn't assure that the relay is good. You'd need to check that current is making it back to pump wiring in the trunk, when relay engages...if fuse is good. If so, it's a failed pump. Wires on the plug for the pump: #1 hot(green w/red stripe) and #4 ground (brown).
Note: Immediately after putting even a small amount of fuel in the tank, even a failing pump can run the car a short distance. Fuel goes directly from filler to pump first, which can prime it temporarily, unless the pump is not running at all.
Hope this helps you diagnose it.
In relay panel, under passenger's foot rest...fuel pump relay should be position #6 on right end of row...make sure that's the one that's clicking...don't know if it would click with blown fuse(?).
But clicking indicates the solenoid in it is working, but not necessarily passing current on to the pump (or fuse?)...so doesn't assure that the relay is good. You'd need to check that current is making it back to pump wiring in the trunk, when relay engages...if fuse is good. If so, it's a failed pump. Wires on the plug for the pump: #1 hot(green w/red stripe) and #4 ground (brown).
Note: Immediately after putting even a small amount of fuel in the tank, even a failing pump can run the car a short distance. Fuel goes directly from filler to pump first, which can prime it temporarily, unless the pump is not running at all.
Hope this helps you diagnose it.
Last edited by silverd2; 10-10-2010 at 08:14 AM.
#3
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All Fixed
I was able to find a good fuel pump out of New Hampshire at Force 5 Auto. Received the pump in two biz days and started the repairs.
Got the assembly out without any issues. Took the assembly apart although it was a bit tricky at first. Replaced the pump and got everything put back in place.
After reconnecting the battery, I went to start the car. Fingers crossed... and she fired right up the first crank!
I do have some pix I can post of the assembly and pump if anyone is interested.
Got the assembly out without any issues. Took the assembly apart although it was a bit tricky at first. Replaced the pump and got everything put back in place.
After reconnecting the battery, I went to start the car. Fingers crossed... and she fired right up the first crank!
I do have some pix I can post of the assembly and pump if anyone is interested.
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Here are some pix of the process
Here are some pix of the process. Not very detailed but should be helpful. The hardest part of this repair was taking the assembly apart to get the pump in it. It's just weird and uncomfortable to work with. Snaps here and there, grooves you gotta keep an eye out for when putting it back together... Just a pain in the ***. But if you take your time you can do it.
A word of advice: when replacing the assembly in the tank, be extremely careful that the rubber ring (sort of a gasket between the pump assembly and the tank) is perfectly seated. If it's not and you fill the tank, you run the risk of having fuel leak out. If you end up needing to do this repair, feel free to email me here and I'll get back to you with any help I can.
A word of advice: when replacing the assembly in the tank, be extremely careful that the rubber ring (sort of a gasket between the pump assembly and the tank) is perfectly seated. If it's not and you fill the tank, you run the risk of having fuel leak out. If you end up needing to do this repair, feel free to email me here and I'll get back to you with any help I can.
#7
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Thank you both very much. Unfortunately, a fuel pump job seems to be something in all D2's owners' future. Mine's fine now (103K miles), but I do all my own work and plan to keep the car a long time...unless the trans goes...then we'll see...it might find it's way over a cliff or become an artillery target
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#8
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do yourself a favor and order the replacement now so you have it on the shelf. That way you have it AND you can schedule it on your own time.
No sense trying to squeeze the last mile out of it. Once you're in the
140k range you're on borrowed time.... my .02
No sense trying to squeeze the last mile out of it. Once you're in the
140k range you're on borrowed time.... my .02
#10
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I did get it used. I was a bit reluctant but it did have a warranty on it. The car fired right up after the install and has been running great ever since.