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The Dreaded Pinch-Bolt strikes... Is it safe to use mapp gas?

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Old 10-14-2008, 03:18 PM
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Default The Dreaded Pinch-Bolt strikes... Is it safe to use mapp gas?

I am redoing the front suspension on my '98 A8Q. Right pinch bolt, easy. Left pinch bolt, let's just say it does not want to leave its cozy home. I've tried everything including two days' of PB Blaster, propane heat, and an 8 lb sledgehammer. Hasn't budged. The only two options I see are more heat, or just drilling the damn thing out. Is there any way to use, say, Mapp gas without igniting the ball joints? Not that I care about the joints, I'm replacing them, that's the whole reason to remove the pinch bolt. I just don't want to incinerate the car in the process.
Old 10-14-2008, 03:44 PM
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Default Re: The Dreaded Pinch-Bolt strikes... Is it safe to use mapp gas?

I had the same problem on BOTH sides of mine. Penetrating oil is useless if they are seriously frozen. I resorted to a splitting maul with absolutly no movement whatsoever.

I drilled out one side but I don't recommend this as I was not able to drill perfectally straight while it was on the car.

On the opposite side I removed the whole spindle unit from the car and brought it to a machine shop. There they used a lot of heat and an impact wrench to work it back and forth until it came out.

I recommend this option because of the ordeal I went through on the first one. If you have a drill press at home this would also be an option.
Old 10-14-2008, 04:03 PM
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Default yep, I used it on mine. It's a lot hotter than propane. Do you have an air hammer?

If you cut it flush and then drill in about 1/2", you might be able to drive it out.

I've also drilled and once I got about 1/2 way, it came out.

It's the worst part of the job no doubt. I think it would be a good idea for everyone to remove them every couple of years, new anti-seize and re-install.

Bob
Old 10-14-2008, 04:56 PM
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Default No, don't even have Mapp yet, but Propane didn't work.

I thought I would try more heat before drilling. I seem to recall reading somewhere you're supposed to heat the metal red for heat to be really effective (though propane seemed to do the job for the (also frozen) left lower control arm).

If the pinch bolt isn't the stupidest design they could possibly have chosen, it must be close. What could possibly have been the advantage of this over the standard tapered seat ball joint?

I second the tip for routine r&r with antiseize. I don't want to wrestle this bear twice.
Old 10-14-2008, 05:48 PM
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Oooof! No fun! I did a CV boot on the A6 today, and was glad pinch bolt came apart easily.
Old 10-14-2008, 06:01 PM
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Default Check for "bounce"

I have seen loose parts fail to separate even though they were free. A load just let the parts "bounce". Just check I'm saying.

Cal
Old 10-15-2008, 03:47 AM
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Default I had to use propane and an air hammer to get them out of my old 97...

never....ever...want to do that again.
Old 10-15-2008, 04:31 AM
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After you take it out just use some anti-seize on the new bolt for the next time.....
Old 10-15-2008, 04:40 AM
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Default btw, if you do any plumbing around the house, the mapp gas is great for that too.

especially if you need to burn off some moisture in the pipe but I'm WAY off topic now.
Old 10-15-2008, 11:14 AM
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Default drill

I wound up drilling the head off mine and then driving it out the back side with a punch. When I put the new pinch bolt in, I slathered it with anti-seize and reversed it so it would be easier to drive out the next time. Which was only about a year later, for other reasons, but it would have been quite difficult to remove if I hadn't reversed it.


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