Front rotor removal without taking the calipers off?
I decided to try and change the front rotors and pads on my dual piston type brakes.
I can however not get enough space and subsequently torque to remove the brake carrier bolts. Hence my question in the title, ie is there any other way to get the rotors off with the calipers still in-place? What would happen if undo the center bolt (not sure of the english name for it but its the bolt holding the hub or perhaps arbor)With the pads off would that give me enough space to get the rotors out? Thanks/Michael |
Originally Posted by A 8
(Post 24477125)
I decided to try and change the front rotors and pads on my dual piston type brakes.
I can however not get enough space and subsequently torque to remove the brake carrier bolts. Hence my question in the title, ie is there any other way to get the rotors off with the calipers still in-place? What would happen if undo the center bolt (not sure of the english name for it but its the bolt holding the hub or perhaps arbor)With the pads off would that give me enough space to get the rotors out? Thanks/Michael Removing the axle bolt (center) would not help. That is the highest torque bolt on the entire vehicle...and only removed when removing the axle shaft. It normally takes a very large wrench (2-4 ft long) to properly replace, anyway...190nm initial torque, then a full half turn (180 degrees) tighter for proper operation. |
Ok, thanks.
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I'd like to suggest that you replace the caliper bolts too.
It's not a big issue but from a piece of mind standpoint is a good idea >). |
Originally Posted by pocketchange
(Post 24477154)
I'd like to suggest that you replace the caliper bolts too.
It's not a big issue but from a piece of mind standpoint is a good idea >). Great advice, thanks! |
I end up using a long breaker bar with a swivel head to break those bad boys loose. An average size ratchet wont budge those unless your damn strong.
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Originally Posted by silverd2
(Post 24477139)
Sorry, no. You must find a way to remove the caliper bolts to clear the rotor. They take 190nm (140 ft lbs) to replace.
Removing the axle bolt (center) would not help. That is the highest torque bolt on the entire vehicle... Does that end up being more tight than the timing pulley crankshaft bolt? |
Originally Posted by Kneale Brownson
(Post 24477407)
Does that end up being more tight than the timing pulley crankshaft bolt?
On the 40V motor, it requires 200nm + 180 degrees...not sure what the final torque equals...I've asked engineers that question before and just got a long list of variables for an answer. On 32V motors, it's supposed to be a straight 450nm (350nm with the special tool...added leverage)...no extra turns. |
I'm not familiar with A8Q stock calipers - are they a floating design like the B5 A4's?
(I know the A8 rotor is the right size for B5 pads) If so, you could remove the sliding pin bolts and get the caliper off the rotor that way couldn't you? Unless the carrier frame is still fouling the rotor too much... Ignore this comment if they're a multi-piston design! |
Originally Posted by twentysevenlitres
(Post 24477453)
I'm not familiar with A8Q stock calipers - are they a floating design like the B5 A4's?
(I know the A8 rotor is the right size for B5 pads) If so, you could remove the sliding pin bolts and get the caliper off the rotor that way couldn't you? Unless the carrier frame is still fouling the rotor too much... Ignore this comment if they're a multi-piston design! |
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