GB D2

Hi Everyone
First i want to wish all good thoughts to Boston and anyone affected by this.
2000 D2 leaking fuel from left front wheel well behind tire.
Cannot find any information in my Bentley on this line.
does anyone know where to get info or furnish info for this line please.
i think it is just a chaffed line and be simple to repair.
had evap lights for a while and now the code shows as a large leak on the last scan.
here is the secondlast scan




17549 - Load Calculation Cross Check
P1141 - 35-10 - Implausible Value - Intermittent
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1
P1423 - 35-00 - Insufficient Flow
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2
P1411 - 35-10 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent
16826 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 35-10 - Small Leak - Intermittent
16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0322 - 35-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 35-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent


thanks for any help
Cheers
GB

audinutt

whatever you do, make sure you fix the fuel leak pronto.

More than on d2 a8/s8 has burned to a crisp from engine bay fires.

silverd2

On US D2's (and I thought the same on Euro's), there should be no fuel lines anywhere on the left side of the car. The farthest left a fuel line gets is the fuel rail on the driver's side cylinder head.

The only evap (fuel vapor) line on the left side is in the left rear fender well...that's the leak detection pump, which detects leaks of vapor and is the device that sets the codes for vapor leaks.

P1141, like code P0102, is likely due to the MAF...clean or replace (?)

The leak codes are due to vapor pressure loss...gas cap, charcoal canister, vapor line somewhere...not usually a liquid fuel leak....and not (I don't believe) anything in the front left fender well. Maybe just where it "seems" to be(?)

This code can shut down your engine...any time the engine speed sensor loses it's signal, it will immediately shut of the fuel pump relay...engine will stop while idling or driving.

You have multiple issues or, less likely, a serious wiring (wet ECM?) problem.

2001 S8

I had the "check engine" light that came on and I took it to my local Audi dealer to have the codes read. They came back stating I needed to replace the MAF sensor, VAC Hose and Top of Tank seal along with some similar items that came back in your last scan, as well. Audi wanted $610.00 to fix the issues.

I questioned their recommendation and did some troubleshooting on my own. I remembered, I had just filled the car up with gas the night before the "check engine" light came on, so I thought maybe the gas cap was worn out; being it's 12 years old. So I bought a new gas cap ($4.78) and guess what...the "check engine" light went off immediately and hasn't turned back on.

I don't know if this is a long-term fix but my car isn't asking for any new parts so....

Hope this helps.


2001 S8
Black on Black

GB D2

Hi
Thanks for the replies
Today opened engi e covers to observe the fuel leak but to no avail ! All componants dry.
Looks like fuel tank over filled and unusual atitude steep driveway made vent line take in some fuel and the evap test make it move through vent line on drivers side where there is a tiny chaffe, will post the fix when I do it.
Maf code found crack in rubber elbow to air filter
Have noise in cams from timing actuators worn anyone reshoe these as oem are rediculas in price
Looking for electric motor mounts both sides and cam actuators
Has anyone done an oil pump chain as mine sems noisy as well
Cheers
GB

silverd2

vent line on drivers side where there is a tiny chaffe, will post the fix when I do it.

The driver's side line is not a vent line...it's a vacuum line leading to the intake manifold. I can NOT imagine how fuel or even fuel vapor could have found it's way into that line, unless the car was upside down with a full tank.

Have noise in cams from timing actuators worn anyone reshoe these as oem are rediculas in price

If you have start up chatter for a couple of seconds, you simply have a normal 40V motor...pads have NOTHING to do with this. If you have continuing chatter during normal idle, your adjuster(s?) are worn out and again, pads have nothing to do with this noise...it's caused due to pressure loss in the adjuster, which is NOT repairable...just replaceable. If you hear grinding, chain dragging sound either under the front end of the driver's side or the rear of the passenger's side valve covers, the pad is gone and you are miles/minutes away from likely catastrophic engine failure and need to shut the engine off and leave it off till the valve covers are lifted for inspection...then likely replacing the missing pad(s) IF there's enough left of the adjuster piston to attach a pad to. When a pad is broken off, it literally would only take minutes to grind away the pad seat...the cam chains are infinitely harder than the metal pad seats.

Has anyone done an oil pump chain as mine sems noisy as well

Have never heard of one of these wearing out at any mileage in these motors...no reason to..it's constantly bathed in oil and away from the outside elements. I think you are likely hearing something else. Again, if it's a cam chain dragging across a pad-less cam adjuster, SHUT THE MOTOR OFF and lift the valve covers!

2001 S8

Wow that sounds like you are going to need more than just a gas cap : )

Good luck with those fixes.


2001 S8
Black on Black

silverd2

Another "maybe" possible scenario. If the leak detection pump was destroyed inside (diaphragm gone), it might suck fuel vapor down the vacuum line.

The line in the upper left hand corner of this photo of a leak detection pump (left rear fender well) is the vacuum line that goes down the left side of the car to the intake manifold...Again, NO other lines involved with fuel or fuel vapor are on the left side of the car.