HELP! Transmission/TCM problems?!
 

All the positions lit up is usually not a good sign; I believe it means the trans has gone into limp mode, which is only one gear, 5th, according to the info I have.

I couldn't find P0170 in my Bentley manual. What engine code do you have?

Agree with Hillpc, trans failure is starting. There are cases where a transmission will go in limp mode. The owner will pull over and turn the car off and then back on. The transmission will reset itself and operate fine for a short time. Another indicator is the fact you drove the car for 5 minutes and went in to limp mode. As the transmission heat up from driving, the trans will slip causing limp mode.

I hope I'm wrong and it's just a water issue.

Good luck.

Limp mode.
 

Most dealers will outsource the job, you might look for ZF rebuilders in your area. If it were my car and was worth the cost of repair I would buy a good used transmission, FUN code, and replace the lower valve body on it and install the Transgo replacement valve. Then new seals and install it. I have little faith in rebuilds other than by known-good techs like Tozo. Rebuilders often cut corners and do not address the root cause, and the trans may never be right and may even fail again soon.

I had a really nice FUN code trans (spare part for my 2001) I sold to a list member called Dr. A8 who is located near Salt Lake, his car was wrecked before he installed it. If he still has the trans you might consider getting it and having it installed, maybe $2500 all in.
A rebuild is likely $4000 and if your car would be worth $3000 (perhaps an optimistic price) with a good trans you might not wish to perform the work.

Good luck,
-Joel.

My cousin in Toronto was quoted $8000 by the local Audi dealer to replace it. They wouldn't rebuild it. He was going to junk the car, so I get it, and rebuilt it myself. That's a job not for the timid, inexperienced, or lacking a lift.

I did get a local shop to offer to rebuild it for $2500 or so, if I brought the trans itself in and picked it up when done. Rebuilt ones are over $3000 from rockauto.com. But Joel's points are well taken.

Audi a5 tiptronic problem
 

Hi all,
been an Audi owner as far back as I can remember from the A4 to the a6 and currently an A5 tiptronic sportsback 2010 model .. roughly 2 year ago I had an issue where the transmission oil leaked from a stainless steel pipe connected by a bracket to the top of the gearbox ..after an inspection by a mechanic he informed me that the leak occurred through a fractured weld on the stainless steel pipe .. he advised me that this was a design flaw by Audi and since then Audi have rectified the problem by adding a special clip and bracket. To refit the pipes . Transmission oil the cost of the job was over 2000 euro .. 2 year and 4 days later 20.000 only done ..the same pipe has fractured in the exact same place.. after contacting Audi Ireland they refuse to help me in any way due to the warranty been out a few days they refuse to issue me a parts warranty so I'm left with no choice but to pay for the job all over again .. I had to draw down a loan to pay for the job the first time round .. I can't afford to pay again ..is there anyone out there that can be some kind of assistance or have had this problem before with some sort of resolve I would greatly appreciate it .. thanks for reading..

Resolved.
 

Its the exterior design,in 50 years it will be beautiful if the paint is kept in good condition :)

Yep, that's Gabor. He knows virtually everything about these-- and has rebuilt gearboxes for a lot of us.

And, since they are virtually 100% aluminum some of us view it as our mission to keep them from being turned into Coors Light cans...
Well sorted the unibody, doors and panels will last forever. They will not rust. (Although, oddly, the fuel flap door has some ferric material in it-- and it will corrode if exposed to enough salt and road ice melter)

Hows the rebuild going for you?

My rebuild is done; been driving the vehicle since the Spring. It was on my lift for a long time. The A drum I think was $130. The rebuild kit was somewhere around $200 if I recall correctly.

Nice work! post some pics if you snapped some?

I only took a few pictures, but they wouldn't be enough to help anyone rebuild their trans. For that in-depth info, I sent someone I think I found on this forum a Paypal donation for a very useful, quite marked up rebuild manual on CD. Pix and comments throughout it. There are also other posts on this forum with a more complete photo essay, but not as good as the CD.

But I left out some additional cost for the rebuild. In addition to the A drum and rebuild kit, I also had to do some valve body work to fix a crack in the upper valve body and get an improved pressure regulator (inside a rebuilt lower valve body) to prevent the A drum from blowing again. That stuff was $125 + $135. (Still way cheaper than the alternatives.) Tonight I pasted at https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...dvice-2963025/ some info on that valve body work. An excerpt from that post:

I installed a rebuilt lower valve body with oversized pressure regulator valve from Eriksson Industries ($125) when I rebuilt the trans. I did not take the valve body apart to look at it after I received it, and I don't know the difference between oversized and Transgo. I also sent in my upper valve body to Eriksson for welding ($135) because of a crack, potentially (?) due to the same overpressure that broke the A drum. They also sell the complete upper valve body ready to go, but I was unclear about part numbers, so I took the upper valve body apart and sent in the casting for welding.

2002 Audi S8
 

Bear with me as I give you a some background info...
I've read the thread and it is obvious that I will be heading in the tranny rebuilt land soon. I have a beautiful 2002 Pearl White S8 with almost 169,000 miles on it. It makes me almost cry, when I think of getting rid off the car only to avoid costly transmission repairs. About 3 years ago, I noticed a burning smell whenever I pulled in to the garage (which now I think may just be a leaky valve cover gasket where the oil drips on the exhaust). Anyway, worried about the tranny being low on fluid, I took it to a local transmission place and had the fluid replaced. Was told that there was a lot of metal particles in the pan. Maybe a year later I started to experience shuttering when in third gear, going slow up a hill while gently accelerating. This did not bother me much as I did not find my self in that situation too often and knew how to drive the car to avoid it from happening. A year ago, I started to experience vibration at 2300rpm and worried that it may again be a drive shaft and tranny issue, I took it to a transmission shop. Told them about the vibration, the 3rd gear shutter, and burning smell. They found the vibration to be present at 2300rpm at any speed, even when parked. They also found a leaky transmission rear output seal. So...the seal was changed, transmission refilled with Universal Synthetic ATF fluid and (the gear section of tranny?) filled with BG Ultra Guard Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W90, along with ATC Plus Additive. Gasket and filter changed as well. It was a cold day when I got the car back and as soon as I drove it off the lot, I noticed a heavy winding sound. I figured that the new heavy fluids must be thick and just need to warm up - please someone comment on this if you can. This does go away after maybe 5 minutes of driving but the winding is still there a bit if you listen hard enough. That service was done a year and 10,000 miles ago. Now the shifts from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are getting worse. If I accelerate gently, all shifts happen smoothly and around 2000rpm. If doing the same but uphill, the shift from 2 to 3 does not happen until 3000rpm (again, I am accelerating gently). If I accelerate hard (hardly do that anymore) the gear shifts seem to happen late and whistling / whinding sound is present. Not sure what to do next.

Definitely get someone who knows what they are doing check / top off the ATF as it's often left low by shops unfamiliar with the procedure. The car has to be running to get enough trans fluid in.
It could also have the wrong filter in it, in that case the pickup neck of the filter is too close to the pan and it starves of fluid. No way to check that without taking the pan off.