Intake Manifold Linkage Arms - Unbreakable Replacements
 

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Audi/VW 4.2V8 Intake Linkage Arms !


GruvenParts.com 4.2L V8 Intake Manifold Linkage Arms Warranted for Life !

Got a 4.2L V8 Audi or VW ? Then you had better check your intake manifold actuator arms (p/n 077198327A)! The OEM versions quickly break, leaving your intake manifold rod stuck, causing poor idle, drivability, loss of power, and poor fuel mileage. This is a very common problem on the 4.2L V8.

Our intake manifold arms have an aerospace grade billet aluminum body with thread on carbon fiber composite ball end links. The composite end links are actually STRONGER than the aerospace grade aluminum body itself!

This is how we can warranty them for life!

Dont go to the VW/Audi dealer and pay upwards of $400 for the new actuator kit when all you need are the arms (the actuators themselves rarely fail). And DONT pay that kind of money for another set of plastic arms that will break in quick order.

Go with GruvenParts.com and NEVER WORRY ABOUT THIS AGAIN !

Fits the following vehicles:

2004-2007 VW Phaeton V8
2003+ VW Touareg V8
2002-2004 Audi A6/Avant
1998-2004 Audi A6/S6 Quattro
2000+ Audi A8/S8 Quattro

OEM P/N 077198327A (077-198-327A)

Intake Manifold Linkage Arms
 

How would you quantify long and short. I have two on my 03 S8 4.2 and they are both about one inch long (37mm total length, 24mm center to center)

keep in mind these don't break for no reason. If the intake runners are seized, titanium arms wouldn't make a difference.

The arms are getting snapped by the vac actuators. The intake manifold needs to be removed and can be freed up.

Bob

I wondered about the reasons why they break, but I couldn't see any reason for it, and I don't understand your explanation. On one end you have the actuator which is solid, the other end it attached to a rubber diaphragm which moves freely in and out, you can pull it with your fingers. I just can't see how there's ever enough pressure or leverage there to break the arm. Does that make any sense, or am I missing something? The only other explanation I could come up with is that it's to do with the heat cycles on the plastic. If there is some other reason for the arms breaking, is it possible to cause other damage by replacing them with stronger arms?

Does anybody know if the actuators should move when the vehicle's in Park? Just revving the engine, I see no movement (both arms are broken on mine).

You can see them work if you watch them when you start the car, and actuate them yourself if you connect and disconnect one of the vacuum lines to the actuators with the engine idling.

The OEM plastic arms break due to the plastic not being strong enough. Over time, the plastic looses its strength as it continually "dries out". This plastic is similar to what we see used all over the engine - Nylon 6/6, or PA6.6. Its total garbage, but is cheap for the OEM, and ofcourse they charge you handsomely for the replacements.

Speaking of replacements, I took a visit to Audi dealer this past weekend. The parts guy sat down with me and explained the issue in more detail. They are going through many of these kits, and bean counters saw fit to provide ONLY 1 of each length arm per kit. So if you have broken 2 arms, you will be in it for 2 complete kits at a cost of $800 dealer price. Sheesh. He said "I know" and rolled his eyes.

So, our replacements will save you big bucks, wont break, and are guaranteed for life.

As for question regarding arm lengths - the short ones are ~ 1" while the long ones are ~2".

As always, call or email virtually 24x7 and we can answer any questions. Also, if you have other ideas for parts, let me know. If we make it, you get freebies to try out. Doesnt hurt to ask!

Paul@GruvenParts.com
404-556-6663
www.GruvenParts.com

I think I can feel the buildup of corrosion that makes the flaps harder to open and close when I mess around with my system.

It might be that with metal rods and cups the system will fight back harder and keep the buildup from freezing up the works.

I tried spraying in there with some Deep Creep, both from the throttle body side and on the bearing/seal where the shaft goes through the manifold. the latter application seemed to help more but neither seemed to help much. I also siliconed the vacuum actuators to try to keep the bellows supple.

The metal rods and joints are probably a good upgrade and coupled with frequent workouts the system might stay working throughout the motor's life cycle. Environment will be a factor, sea air for example would probably make the corrosion worse.

At any rate I think a metal rod assembly is likely a better match to the sturdy-looking arms and springs.

The problem is corrosion of the magnesium manifold and the intake runner, causing them to freeze up. Once there is a high level of resistance due to general corrosion of the magnesium, the plastic arms break. Then the intake runner siezes in the manifold. Putting stronger arms at that point won't do anything for you.

You have to take the manifold completely apart, try to break everything apart without breaking the components.....clean it up, restore clearances, put it back together.....then the new arms will work.

A8CT has done it and posted pictures of the corrosion. That's what he is referring to. The arms alone will not solve the problem.

Both of mine appear to move freely, the only resistance being the spring, yet both arms are broken. Looking at the break in the arms, there are visible air bubbles inside the plastic, covering roughly 1/3 of the fractured surface.

Anyone got a link? I can't find it!