Low pressure A/C port questions...
#1
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Low pressure A/C port questions...
Does everyone have the same port under the cover next to the brake booster? According to Yanivic his car only had a black cap, no sensor.
I have a screw on Low pressure sensor that has 2 wires going to it. Can anyone else confirm is you have or dont have this?
I am making an adaptor that will screw up to the Audi port and make it a standard R134A charging port with a T fitting so the low pressure sensor is hooked up as well.
My slow A/C leak is actually comming form the schrader valve that screws into the low side port.
So far it looks like a standard R12 filler port. I will add a Y or T fitting and hool up the Low pressure sensor on the side port. Then pop on the quick connect for filling. If i get creative i might even mount a pressure gauge for constant monitoring.
I have a screw on Low pressure sensor that has 2 wires going to it. Can anyone else confirm is you have or dont have this?
I am making an adaptor that will screw up to the Audi port and make it a standard R134A charging port with a T fitting so the low pressure sensor is hooked up as well.
My slow A/C leak is actually comming form the schrader valve that screws into the low side port.
So far it looks like a standard R12 filler port. I will add a Y or T fitting and hool up the Low pressure sensor on the side port. Then pop on the quick connect for filling. If i get creative i might even mount a pressure gauge for constant monitoring.
#2
I don't believe this is a true R12 configeration port...
I tried a R34 retorfit adaptor on this port and the threads are slightly different. Your plan is one I considered and did not procede beyond trying to use the adaptor.
If your leak is from this low pressure port/switch, you need to replace the O-ring at the low pressure switch connection. When the low pressure switch is in place, the shrader valve is pressed open by the switch so the switch can sense system pressure and operate properly. Remove the low pressure switch and the schrader valve seals the system preventing loss of system R34 coolant. When the low pressure switch is in place, the system is sealed only by the o-ring. If low side pressure drops too much the low pressure switch prevents the compressor from operating, protecting the compressor.
If your leak is from this low pressure port/switch, you need to replace the O-ring at the low pressure switch connection. When the low pressure switch is in place, the shrader valve is pressed open by the switch so the switch can sense system pressure and operate properly. Remove the low pressure switch and the schrader valve seals the system preventing loss of system R34 coolant. When the low pressure switch is in place, the system is sealed only by the o-ring. If low side pressure drops too much the low pressure switch prevents the compressor from operating, protecting the compressor.
#3
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I believe the threads are ACME 1/2' thread. I found an adaptor for it that should work.
I found a R134a tank adaptor that matches the threads, now alli need to do it find a male end that the low pressure sensor can hook up to. If that works then were in business. I have it being sent express mail so i should have this in a few days. Ill let you know how it goes.
See the link. this has different threads than what the normal retrofit kit does.<ul><li><a href="http://www.shop.com/op/~FJC_R134a_Tank_Adapter-prod-17009603-23911715">Click</a></li></ul>
See the link. this has different threads than what the normal retrofit kit does.<ul><li><a href="http://www.shop.com/op/~FJC_R134a_Tank_Adapter-prod-17009603-23911715">Click</a></li></ul>
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