My first major maintenance on my A8
#11
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Well that is interesting. I was thinking about upgrading when the time comes. Maybe something a little sportier to improve handling.
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
I just recently installed new front and rear struts. I went with Bilstein B6 all around. Along with the struts, I did the front strut mounts, front upper and lower sprint plates/seats and bump stops both front and rear.
Car definitely rides firmer with the new struts, but I drove around for four years on old OE struts. However, anyone that has ridden in it, since the new struts, always says, "this car rides smooth/very nice".
After two weeks the suspension has settled and ride height is spot on in the front and 1/4" higher in the rear.
Good luck.
Car definitely rides firmer with the new struts, but I drove around for four years on old OE struts. However, anyone that has ridden in it, since the new struts, always says, "this car rides smooth/very nice".
After two weeks the suspension has settled and ride height is spot on in the front and 1/4" higher in the rear.
Good luck.
Last edited by 2001 S8; 08-31-2017 at 06:21 PM.
#13
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I just recently installed new front and rear struts. I went with Bilstein B6 all around. Along with the struts, I did the front strut mounts, front upper and lower sprint plates/seats and bump stops both front and rear.
Car definitely rides firmer with the new struts, but I drove around for four years on old OE struts. However, anyone that has ridden in it, since the new struts, always says, "this car rides smooth/very nice".
After two weeks the suspension has settled and ride height is spot on in the front and 1/4" higher in the rear.
Good luck.
Car definitely rides firmer with the new struts, but I drove around for four years on old OE struts. However, anyone that has ridden in it, since the new struts, always says, "this car rides smooth/very nice".
After two weeks the suspension has settled and ride height is spot on in the front and 1/4" higher in the rear.
Good luck.
#14
AudiWorld Super User
Also the S8 has a 20mm rear sway bar, compared to the 17.3mm on the A8 (only 14mm on PFL D2s)... so along with stiffer/shorter springs, you get less body roll and less understeer.
S8 has a noticeably firmer ride (rough pavement, cracks and pot holes are felt much more)... unpleasant to some (myself) who enjoy the firm yet soft feel of the A8.
#15
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Well I started my project today. Got the front end into the service position, drained coolant, removed serpentine belt and fan/clutch. I finally got the crank lock in place and decided to save the rest for tomorrow.
Everything so far is pretty straight forward. I am pretty disappointed in Blauparts since they forgot to include the "multiple pages of detailed step by step instructions" that were promised with the timing kit. I bought a pdf manual but don't really like it. I would rather have something in my hands.
Everything so far is pretty straight forward. I am pretty disappointed in Blauparts since they forgot to include the "multiple pages of detailed step by step instructions" that were promised with the timing kit. I bought a pdf manual but don't really like it. I would rather have something in my hands.
#16
If your fan clutch triangular bearing makes noise it would be a good time to replace it(have it pressed in) 100$ish part plus cost me 80$ to have it pressed in.Better than 450$ bearing with the shaft.
#17
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
The fan bearing is fine but both idlers for the serpentine belt are shot. I'm out getting a new set right now.
I had the drivers side cam rotate on me while trying to remove the pulley. I should be able to just keep rotating it clockwise to get it back in time right? With the crank locked at TDC the valves can't make contact right?
I'm looking forward to getting this thing done today I'll post pics later
I had the drivers side cam rotate on me while trying to remove the pulley. I should be able to just keep rotating it clockwise to get it back in time right? With the crank locked at TDC the valves can't make contact right?
I'm looking forward to getting this thing done today I'll post pics later
#18
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I guess I was just being hopeful. Of course some pistons are at the top of their stroke when at TDC. I hope no damage was done when the camshaft spun. It went clockwise about 1/8th turn. It felt like some valves were open and the spring pressure forced them closed /turned the cam. If that's true then I doubt any damage was done. The hard part is getting the cam back around without hitting a piston. I'll have to see if the manual I bought is any help.
#19
The valves will be OK unless you forced the cams over with a wrench.
Good catch on the tensioner roller and ilder. Thankfully the tensioner roller can be replaced with a Hyundai 2.7 roller rather than replacing the whole assembly for 3x the money. Dayco Part # 89010 or Gates Part # 3802. Been using them for years and many miles w/o drama myself.
I wish I'd looked at my fan bearing when I had it out, I think it could get repacked and last indefinitely. Pop out the seal and a few pea-sized blobs of grease, maybe a couple more that should migrate to the other row, and pop the seal back in. I have done the same to keep the tensioner roller and idler bearings alive and happy long past their normal lifespan, alternator bearings also.
Speaking of, while the alternator is handy if the bearings sound dry (take the regulator/brushes out to see) they can be repacked or replaced, the brushes can also be replaced or the vreg itself can. Huco is my current go-to for these, there is a Latvian supplier that is good.
If it has a no-name regulator on it, I'd replace that unless it's pretty new, I have had these fail (no-name on a Bosch Premium reman alternator) and make sure the alternator cooling duct is in place also. Since this part can leave you walking it's worth some attention.
Good catch on the tensioner roller and ilder. Thankfully the tensioner roller can be replaced with a Hyundai 2.7 roller rather than replacing the whole assembly for 3x the money. Dayco Part # 89010 or Gates Part # 3802. Been using them for years and many miles w/o drama myself.
I wish I'd looked at my fan bearing when I had it out, I think it could get repacked and last indefinitely. Pop out the seal and a few pea-sized blobs of grease, maybe a couple more that should migrate to the other row, and pop the seal back in. I have done the same to keep the tensioner roller and idler bearings alive and happy long past their normal lifespan, alternator bearings also.
Speaking of, while the alternator is handy if the bearings sound dry (take the regulator/brushes out to see) they can be repacked or replaced, the brushes can also be replaced or the vreg itself can. Huco is my current go-to for these, there is a Latvian supplier that is good.
If it has a no-name regulator on it, I'd replace that unless it's pretty new, I have had these fail (no-name on a Bosch Premium reman alternator) and make sure the alternator cooling duct is in place also. Since this part can leave you walking it's worth some attention.
#20
AudiWorld Senior Member
S8 springs are 25mm shorter than A8 and stiffer. so stiffer shocks are needed to match or you'll get an unpleasantly "bouncy" ride.
Also the S8 has a 20mm rear sway bar, compared to the 17.3mm on the A8 (only 14mm on PFL D2s)... so along with stiffer/shorter springs, you get less body roll and less understeer.
S8 has a noticeably firmer ride (rough pavement, cracks and pot holes are felt much more)... unpleasant to some (myself) who enjoy the firm yet soft feel of the A8.
Also the S8 has a 20mm rear sway bar, compared to the 17.3mm on the A8 (only 14mm on PFL D2s)... so along with stiffer/shorter springs, you get less body roll and less understeer.
S8 has a noticeably firmer ride (rough pavement, cracks and pot holes are felt much more)... unpleasant to some (myself) who enjoy the firm yet soft feel of the A8.
Yep, lower and harder, but when you are pushing 140 mph, beautiful az ....