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My first major maintenance on my A8

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Old 09-05-2017, 05:58 AM
  #21
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Originally Posted by jfrahm View Post
The valves will be OK unless you forced the cams over with a wrench.

Good catch on the tensioner roller and ilder. Thankfully the tensioner roller can be replaced with a Hyundai 2.7 roller rather than replacing the whole assembly for 3x the money. Dayco Part # 89010 or Gates Part # 3802. Been using them for years and many miles w/o drama myself.

I wish I'd looked at my fan bearing when I had it out, I think it could get repacked and last indefinitely. Pop out the seal and a few pea-sized blobs of grease, maybe a couple more that should migrate to the other row, and pop the seal back in. I have done the same to keep the tensioner roller and idler bearings alive and happy long past their normal lifespan, alternator bearings also.

Speaking of, while the alternator is handy if the bearings sound dry (take the regulator/brushes out to see) they can be repacked or replaced, the brushes can also be replaced or the vreg itself can. Huco is my current go-to for these, there is a Latvian supplier that is good.

If it has a no-name regulator on it, I'd replace that unless it's pretty new, I have had these fail (no-name on a Bosch Premium reman alternator) and make sure the alternator cooling duct is in place also. Since this part can leave you walking it's worth some attention.
Wow, great info. I didn't have time to mess with the alternator but honestly don't feel like that is so hard to get to.

You saved me $100 on the serpentine belt tensioner! Thank you! I had already gone to the dealership and bought one since nobody could get one to me in time. Now I can just take it back. I found the hyundai version for $20 locally. The hyundai replacement felt lighter and the bearing had a different part number but who cares as long as it works.

Last edited by Dr. A8; 09-05-2017 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:40 AM
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In order to get the drivers side cams back into position I had to slide the gear on with the old timing belt and then wrapped the belt around the crank gear. Put a pair of vice grips on the opposite side of the crank gear and tighten the cam pulley to spec. Voila, now you can spin the cam backwards into normal timing. I used to have to do this with Subarus to get the cam gears off without jumping time and bending valves.

The car now runs great. I didn't have time to do the oil change but that's coming this weekend. Should be a quick job. I also ordered a new air filter since I removed mine and it was pretty plugged up. I ended up just blowing it out and putting it back in the meantime. The insides of the valve covers were caked with sludge. I'm pretty sure the last owner was using cheap dino oil. I'm definitely putting synthetic in. I bought Castrol but was wondering what people prefer.

I was pretty fried by the end of the day yesterday. I ended up putting the front end back on before putting the viscous fan and serpentine belt/pulleys on. Turns out you can do those things with only removing the fan shroud.
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:45 AM
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@Pusbutton_auto: Haha wow, not sure the A8 would get to 140 but would love to have better handling. This car just handles ok but I feel like there's a lot of potential with suspension tuning and lower profile tires.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. A8 View Post
@Pusbutton_auto: Haha wow, not sure the A8 would get to 140 but would love to have better handling. This car just handles ok but I feel like there's a lot of potential with suspension tuning and lower profile tires.
Yeah talking about the S8 ...

they sit so low, you can't get under it.

I found all my Audis (mostly 200s) handled well and performed beautifully at speed.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:58 AM
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Ok, so the car has been running pretty well but I have what appears to be a misfire. I can feel it at idle. I didn't have a CEL from it until I decided to push the car. The CEL came on flashing and then stayed on. When I read the code it was for random misfire and misfire on cylinders 7&8. I cleared the codes and drove the car. No CEL came on again until I pushed it again. The CEL flashed at me and went away. No CEL after that.

Since I just did timing I'm most suspicious of that. I used the crank lock and the cam lock bar so it's not likely to be off. However, I noticed that as I removed the cam lock bar the passenger side cam did seem to rotate counter clockwise a bit. It made me wonder if there is supposed to be a tooth count on the belt between cam gears.

I did disconnect the coil packs without disconnecting the battery so maybe I caused an issue. I also somehow blew a front turn signal even though that was never unplugged. I only pulled the cylinder 1 spark plug so not likely that either.

The last thing I noticed was that the odometer said FUSE after the job was done. That went away though.

Any thoughts?
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Old 09-07-2017, 11:41 AM
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OK I think I know what I did wrong. I put the cam lock bar on and tightened the cam sprocket bolts. I then fit the timing belt. From what I understand, I should have left the cam sprockets loose until the belt was on, then tightened the cam sprocket bolts with the cam bar in place.

Looks like I'll need to take it back apart and redo the timing. I'm just trying to figure out if I can do this without draining the radiator again.
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Old 09-09-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. A8 View Post
OK I think I know what I did wrong. I put the cam lock bar on and tightened the cam sprocket bolts. I then fit the timing belt. From what I understand, I should have left the cam sprockets loose until the belt was on, then tightened the cam sprocket bolts with the cam bar in place.

Looks like I'll need to take it back apart and redo the timing. I'm just trying to figure out if I can do this without draining the radiator again.
Draining the radiator has nothing to do with changing or adjusting the timing belt.
Changing the water pump is an optional job, some do while you're in there ... not required.
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by silverd2 View Post
Draining the radiator has nothing to do with changing or adjusting the timing belt.
Changing the water pump is an optional job, some do while you're in there ... not required.
I was referring to putting the car into the service position. I tried yesterday to work on it but I can't get the electric fan off of the radiator. I know I should be able to rotate it off but it just won't.

I was able to get the cam lock bar on and the cams are out of sync. I cleaned out my antifreeze tub so no big deal to drain and then reuse the coolant.

Unless you tell me a better way I'll be pulling the bumper off and doing it by the book. Can't wait to be done with this.
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Old 09-10-2017, 06:20 AM
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I'd probably just do it with the top cambelt covers off and with a little measuring or a laser or something. You can also see the angle in VCDS.
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Old 09-10-2017, 06:28 AM
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I need to pop the gears loose in order to align them properly. I don't think I can get the puller on unless I create some space. I think it's just the passenger side that's off though so maybe just maybe....
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