Regulator or Alternator?
02-01-2012, 06:11 PM
#11
AudiWorld Member
My reference concerned more than the alternator.
Low voltage batteries are hard on starters and other things.
Older batteries are easily stressed. My last Interstate was working great after 7 years but enough already. Even the Interstate battery man was impressed this being Southeast Texas.
IMO.. low voltage & starting are not too positive.. but, to each his own.
Low voltage batteries are hard on starters and other things.
Older batteries are easily stressed. My last Interstate was working great after 7 years but enough already. Even the Interstate battery man was impressed this being Southeast Texas.
IMO.. low voltage & starting are not too positive.. but, to each his own.
12-04-2014, 01:00 PM
#12
Prcedure for replacing alternator bearing?
I think many just assume the regulator (relatively cheap...non-dealer) and easy to install...and very often the problem. Other than a regulator, the only repair I've ever had to do to an alternator was a bearing replacement...never a diode problem.
Bentley doesn't seem to have a specific test, but I found this link (below...not Audi specific). Page 2 explains a test to isolate the alternator output from the regulator...and other info on this type alternator/regulator in general.
http://www.bronek.org/sailing/zamind...leshooting.pdf
Bentley doesn't seem to have a specific test, but I found this link (below...not Audi specific). Page 2 explains a test to isolate the alternator output from the regulator...and other info on this type alternator/regulator in general.
http://www.bronek.org/sailing/zamind...leshooting.pdf
Last edited by S8ilver; 12-05-2014 at 05:17 AM.
12-12-2014, 03:58 AM
#13
Yes, I wrote it up on the 'other ' site.
You can get a standard internal fan rebuild kit but the A8 front bearing is different, it's
B17-99D-2RS Alternator Bearing 17x52x17
About $20 for that bearing from Amazon. You can also re-grease both bearings if they are not pitted and wrecked. There are vids on youtube, you just pry the side shield out carefully with a small screwdriver and you are in.
IMO if you are near the alternator and it's never been serviced, at 125-150K miles I would at least replace the brushes and clean and regrease the bearings. I think the slip rings will go 250K under normal conditions. Maybe less in an S-car with higher average RPMs. I like the OEM voltage regulators and sniff disdainfully at the no-name ones that come in the rebuild kits so I suggest changing brushes and sticking with the quality regulator. There are vids on this procedure, it's easy. You get a small drill bit like 1mm, drill into the brush until it explodes to dust, recover the spring, and then drill out the solder joint and crimp behind it. The vid helps.
Doing brushes and regreasing the bearings is under $10, if you do bearings it's another $25. Slip rings are another $10 maybe and you need to make a tool to install them without fragging the part. The rebuild kit with a no-name regulator and the wrong front bearing is $25 so it's $45 after you buy the right one.
If you drive long distances it's not a terrible idea to carry a spare alternator and belt as you could be stranded a while if the alternator quits. With that in mind the Bosch rebuild might be a good purchase and then you can tune up your old one as a spare. Even if you are not inclined to change it yourself you'd have the part and would just need a mechanic rather than having to wait for a part to be overnighted. The D2 alternator is not common.
For the rebuild kit search "bosch internal fan alternator kit" on ebay, I got one from Gold Lion in Ireland, the front bearing I got from Amazon.
Other than that front bearing difference, this writeup is good:
Bosch_repair
Note again that writeup has the common front bearing part number and not the beefier one in our cars.
-Joel.
You can get a standard internal fan rebuild kit but the A8 front bearing is different, it's
B17-99D-2RS Alternator Bearing 17x52x17
About $20 for that bearing from Amazon. You can also re-grease both bearings if they are not pitted and wrecked. There are vids on youtube, you just pry the side shield out carefully with a small screwdriver and you are in.
IMO if you are near the alternator and it's never been serviced, at 125-150K miles I would at least replace the brushes and clean and regrease the bearings. I think the slip rings will go 250K under normal conditions. Maybe less in an S-car with higher average RPMs. I like the OEM voltage regulators and sniff disdainfully at the no-name ones that come in the rebuild kits so I suggest changing brushes and sticking with the quality regulator. There are vids on this procedure, it's easy. You get a small drill bit like 1mm, drill into the brush until it explodes to dust, recover the spring, and then drill out the solder joint and crimp behind it. The vid helps.
Doing brushes and regreasing the bearings is under $10, if you do bearings it's another $25. Slip rings are another $10 maybe and you need to make a tool to install them without fragging the part. The rebuild kit with a no-name regulator and the wrong front bearing is $25 so it's $45 after you buy the right one.
If you drive long distances it's not a terrible idea to carry a spare alternator and belt as you could be stranded a while if the alternator quits. With that in mind the Bosch rebuild might be a good purchase and then you can tune up your old one as a spare. Even if you are not inclined to change it yourself you'd have the part and would just need a mechanic rather than having to wait for a part to be overnighted. The D2 alternator is not common.
For the rebuild kit search "bosch internal fan alternator kit" on ebay, I got one from Gold Lion in Ireland, the front bearing I got from Amazon.
Other than that front bearing difference, this writeup is good:
Bosch_repair
Note again that writeup has the common front bearing part number and not the beefier one in our cars.
-Joel.
12-15-2014, 01:54 PM
#14
I think I'll go this route for now as the $75 core isn't worth giving up a very good OEM part, especially when Audi charges around $650 for a new alternator. I've got a spare Dayco belt to go on as well so I'll swap both at once. The car has 75k miles so not terribly worried about brushes...still kind of surprised a bearing has already gone though.
This kit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-BOSCH-INTERNAL-FAN-TYPE-ALTERNATOR-/161025594699?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257ddf954b
Last edited by S8ilver; 12-15-2014 at 02:06 PM.
12-15-2014, 03:10 PM
#15
Ended up not ordering the Bosch rebuilt unit. Will completely R&R the one I have with new bearings and brushes. Watching a youtube video of bruss replacement made me 100% confident I could do the whole job in no time.
I imagine the pulley removal can be accomplished with hand tools and this?:
With pulley removed, front bearing just slides right off?
I imagine the pulley removal can be accomplished with hand tools and this?:
With pulley removed, front bearing just slides right off?
Last edited by S8ilver; 12-15-2014 at 03:13 PM.
12-16-2014, 11:34 AM
#16
Yeah that Gold Lion kit is nice but you need the different front bearing, B17-99D-2RS Alternator Bearing 17x52x17. I got one from Amazon.
I have not tried the regulator from that kit but used some of the extra brushes supplied. To install the slip rings you need to drill out a dowel or something to make a cup to support the slip ring assembly at both the top and the bottom or it will buckle or crack in the middle when you attempt to install it. If you have a deep socket or the like it'd fit in, you might be able to drop washers into the socket until they adequately support the slip rings.
I would not bother with slip rings at 75K though.
I do not think you need a freewheel pulley tool. I used a pulley remover/installer tool from Harbor Freight and some strap wrenches, and an impact gun. I have a set of bearing pullers too, do not recall what got used.
I would suspect water ingress to toast your bearings at 75K.
-Joel.
I have not tried the regulator from that kit but used some of the extra brushes supplied. To install the slip rings you need to drill out a dowel or something to make a cup to support the slip ring assembly at both the top and the bottom or it will buckle or crack in the middle when you attempt to install it. If you have a deep socket or the like it'd fit in, you might be able to drop washers into the socket until they adequately support the slip rings.
I would not bother with slip rings at 75K though.
I do not think you need a freewheel pulley tool. I used a pulley remover/installer tool from Harbor Freight and some strap wrenches, and an impact gun. I have a set of bearing pullers too, do not recall what got used.
I would suspect water ingress to toast your bearings at 75K.
-Joel.
12-16-2014, 11:52 AM
#17
Got the bearing on Ebay as well...$17.99
I'll inspect slip rings when I'm in there but doubt I'll mess with them.
I like this home made tool...
Replacing Slip Rings on Internal Fan IF Bosch Alternators : EuroPartsHouse
I'll inspect slip rings when I'm in there but doubt I'll mess with them.
I like this home made tool...
Replacing Slip Rings on Internal Fan IF Bosch Alternators : EuroPartsHouse
Last edited by S8ilver; 12-16-2014 at 12:03 PM.
05-18-2018, 09:31 AM
#18
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I used a bosh 140amp regulator . in an 00 auidi tt witch i think is a 120 amp NOW WE GOT PROBLEMS no stero power fuse blow instantly when changing radio fuse. Did i do something stupid ...... no brake lights obd2 doesnt work/ intill i change the fuse. now i can hear voltage whine out of speakers ....
This all started with my alternator not charging after winter storage. So i changed the brushes with a random one i had laying around. I think it said something 40 on it instead of 20. started car and checked the voltage at battery while running. everything looked good. then i realize the stereo doesnt work along with the obd2 port and brake lights wont illuminate when pedal is pushed. . Fuses were blow-en. Went to change radio fuse it pops everytime i touch the connection to put fuse in. Then when i changed the obd2 on-board diganiose fuse i can here the engine thru the speakers.... the alternator wine.... not sure if the brush kit was too high powered or something??
hot wired the stereo from an alternative 12v it powers up like normal just NO SOUND.... Wondering if i fried my amp or a relay..... i kinda doubt changing the brushes will change anything now that the damage is done.... plz help im somewhat tech savy.... but i did but some random brush kit in it soooooooooo any help is appreciated. never had a problem with it b4
This all started with my alternator not charging after winter storage. So i changed the brushes with a random one i had laying around. I think it said something 40 on it instead of 20. started car and checked the voltage at battery while running. everything looked good. then i realize the stereo doesnt work along with the obd2 port and brake lights wont illuminate when pedal is pushed. . Fuses were blow-en. Went to change radio fuse it pops everytime i touch the connection to put fuse in. Then when i changed the obd2 on-board diganiose fuse i can here the engine thru the speakers.... the alternator wine.... not sure if the brush kit was too high powered or something??
hot wired the stereo from an alternative 12v it powers up like normal just NO SOUND.... Wondering if i fried my amp or a relay..... i kinda doubt changing the brushes will change anything now that the damage is done.... plz help im somewhat tech savy.... but i did but some random brush kit in it soooooooooo any help is appreciated. never had a problem with it b4
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