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Removing the side mirror control knob from the door switch plate

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Old 10-25-2018, 08:14 PM
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Default Removing the side mirror control **** from the door switch plate

Got a replacement driver's door switch plate for my 2003 S8. The mirror control includes a "fold the mirrors in" position, which control on the new switch plate does not have. I was able to remove the **** from my original switch plate, by inserting a very small screwdriver into an indentation on the right side of the ****. But I can't get the **** on the replacement switch plate to come off the same way. I damaged the switch plate a little trying.

FYI, my original mirror switch mechanism has a grey bottom plate, and the one on the replacement switch panel has a red bottom plate.


Hole in the new switch **** - can't get to locking tab on this one.


Old switch **** showing hole used to release locking tab.


Hole in tab inside **** engages center pin of white section on switch. Note lip below white section.

Anyone know how to get the **** off of the mirror control without doing damage?

Thanks.

- All41
Old 10-25-2018, 08:18 PM
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Just to be clear, the mirror switch in the replacement switch plate does not have the "fold mirrors in" feature, which is why I want to replace it with the original switch.
Old 11-02-2018, 07:42 AM
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Well, I was hoping that someone could recommend a schmidlapwracken or elekctrickishkopfwringen device, but ended up using brute force.

After I retrieved the **** from the other side of the kitchen ( ), I found that what blocked access to the ****'s release clip also prevents the **** from turning past "L". A little trimming of the plastic under the **** on the switch, and the **** will now turn left 180 degrees - and works to control the mirror folding. Turns out the two switch types use the same internal mechanism. (See the third photo - the raised portion to the right of the white switch protrusion wrapped around the right side in the switch with the red bottom. I trimmed it to match the switch with the grey bottom.)

The catch on the **** (circled in the third picture) broke at the end, as did the clip which holds it to the switch (line to it in the third picture). I repaired the **** with a bit of JB Weld Plastic Bonder, with enough extra that it's not loose, so I think that will work. The post which makes up the clip can't be repaired, based on past experience trying to do things like this - very unlikely the repair woudl hold, and it's a tight space to work with.
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