midnightgolfer

Okay, I;ve ordered two 3m coils of vacuum tubing. 4mm and 24mm, as the real culprit are the rear breather hoses, back where it looks like I'll have to remove the throttle body to get at them.
I hope not, but I'm still looking through the Bently book-on-disc, and I can't see any other way to replace them.
It also looks like there should be three tubes back there, but from what I can see so far, it looks, like my engine only came with two. The front tube, that connects both valve covers, is also getting a little bit soft, and it's also 24mm, so I'll be replacing it, as well, as soon as the stock tubing I've ordered come in.

(Gripe: Spain does not have the same ubiquitous auto-parts stores like Autozone or Pep Boys, etc. There's a couple of national-chain service centers that do oil changes, tires, brakes jobs etc. but not even the hardware stores sell stock tubing, and all recommended going to the dealership, or searching online. - So I went online. end gripe.)

I got my Bentley manual and my VagCom cable in the mail now, and it only cost me another 70 bucks in taxes and fees to get them through Customs. VAT, by itself, was 20% of the total on the invoice. Grrrrr. Effing E.U.

Anyways. There's codes. TONS of codes:


Chassis Type: 4D - Audi A8 D2
Scan: 01 03 08 11 15 16 17 18 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 65 67 75 76 77
02

Mileage: 159250km/98953miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 4D0 907 557 A
Component: 3,7L V8/4V MOTR AT D04
Coding: 04253
Shop #: WSC 02314
VCID: 2A55FD5AFC8D

8 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity
P0134 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16538 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1: No Activity
P0154 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17541 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1&B2 S1; Heating Circuit: Elect. Malfunction
P1133 - 35-00 - -
17908 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Electrical Malfunction
P1500 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16500 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Implausible Signal
P0116 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-111-EDS.lbl
Part No: 8E0 614 111 M
Component: ABS/EDS 5.3 QUATTRO D11
Shop #: BB 24302
VCID: 28510752E281

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 4D0 820 043 E
Component: D2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT_D03
Coding: 00180
Shop #: WSC 03385
VCID: 1E3D218AB0C5

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 4D0 959 655 C
Component: Airbag 7 Audi DE0
Coding: 00224
Shop #: WSC 02314
VCID: 3265E53AD45D

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 4D0-919-033-MYW.lbl
Part No: 4D0 919 033 M
Component: D2-KOMBIINSTRUMENT D33
Coding: 00183
Shop #: WSC 00008
VCID: 2E5DF14AC065

1 Fault Found:
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: None
Part No: 4A0 953 234
Component: IMMO AUZ9Z0A8287063 D77
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 03385
VCID: DFC3DC8E774F

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl
Part No: 8LO 862 257
Component: ZV-Pumpe, DWA, Funk
Coding: 10184
Shop #: WSC 65535
VCID: 11274AB6711B

8 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01372 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Passenger Side
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch
35-00 - -
01373 - Alarm triggered by Radio Ground Contact
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 4D0 927 156 L
Component: AG5 01V 3.7lV8 RdW D74
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3265E53AD45D

4 Faults Found:
18264 - Throttle Potentiometer (G69): Error Message from ECU
P1856 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
00529 - Engine Speed Signal Missing
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
18265 - Load Signal: Error Message from ECU
P1857 - 35-00 - -
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
27-00 - Implausible Signal

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

tozoM8

There are 3 hoses. Two larger and one small diameter. http://audipages.com/tozo/intake_removed.jpg
Clear all the codes and see what comes back in a couple days. The rest of the codes came up because of the dead battery.

midnightgolfer

I'm still awaiting the arrival of the tubing stock, which should come tomorrow morning, but tonight I've got the intake manifold off, and I can now plainly see that the third tube, which is the middle, more smaller one, has completely disintegrated.

I assume engine heat, coupled with long hot days under the Spanish sun, has baked a lot of plastic parts on this car. I also discovered the "insides" of the pressure cap of the coolant overflow bottle, have practically dissolved, and fallen into the bottle. Luckily the sieve trapped the larger chunks in the bottle, especially the metal spring, and I was able to shake them out, but the sieve isn't in perfect shape, and I wonder if any of the pieces got through, and lodged in the block or into the water pump or t-stat, and might be creating hotspots somewhere. Maybe I'll get it flushed. Too bad it looks like quite a chore to pull the water pump, as opposed to other engines I've had in the past.

There's a couple of electrical connectors that are falling apart as well, one green and one brown, on either side of the fuel rail, that each has a metal loop, built into the fuel rail itself, that's supposed to hold them in place.

I'm wondering if I should just try to "glue" the pieces back together, with some epoxy, or if it would be better to figure out the part number, or hope there's any left at the junkyard, in better shape than mine.

The two-stage mechanism inside the intake manifold is absolutely fascinating! And I loved the crazy looks I got from my neighbors, who walked by as I was sucking into the tube, to actuate the valve that rotates the mechanism.

silverd2

No help with your car problem...just an observation: What is up with shipping anything to Espana?
I've sold a lot of camera equipment internationally on Ebay...all over Asia, Europe and other destinations. Spain, hands down, requires the most paperwork and everything gets tied up in customs. Felt sorry for a collector in Madrid who bought several pieces from me...not to mention the "duty" he had to pay upon receipt. I think shipping pornography to North Korea would probably be less hassle

midnightgolfer

It's a crapshoot. I have no idea why, except that Spaniards pretty much just tell me they're used to the risk, and they simply take for granted as "It is what it is."
I see it as a general, pan-institutional level of inefficiency and corruption that seems like a cross between California's DMV and a kind of Daley Chicago machine.

There are ways to send people things in Spain, that never seem to get caught up in customs, but I'm still trying to get people to divulge their secrets to me. So far, it seems like one of the steps involve making it not look like a business, rather that the package is being sent by a private individual sending a gift to an individual in their own family. I've also been told that you have less problems if you have an Hispanic name.

Who knows?

midnightgolfer

Well my hosing finally arrived today.

It turns out that the larger rear breather hose from the factory actually has a reduction from about 22mm to about 19mm molded into it, as well as a few nice radius bend, none of which can be effectively replicated in the cheap stock tubing I bought, without seriously kinking it, and clamping beyond recognition at the lower/smaller connector on the block.

So, I'm looking at alternatives, and maybe I'll even take a trip out to the dealer. Maybe.


Meanwhile... My new battery has dropped to 2 volts in just 3 weeks without starting the engine. Grrrr. Now I've got to figure out where the voltage leak is. Fun.

midnightgolfer

077103221K
077103221E

077 103 221K is the part number at the dealer, for the rear breather hose that I need for the ventilation for cylinder block.

They charge 53€ to order it, final price, all taxes and fees included.

I think I might just take the tubing that I already bought and make it work.

midnightgolfer

First of all, thank you everybody, I think the original problem may now be solved

I actually found a warehouse that sells some generic parts to the public.
They didn't carry anything specifically for Audi, but it turns out that a Renault radiator hose was long enough, and the right diameter, and had enough bends in it, and finally, that's what worked.

It cost less than 14€ total.

This is now Day Zero. And the fluctuations are gone, as well as the stalling.
I drove about 50 km, mixed freeway and city, after buttoning everything back up.
It was painfully hard to start at first. I was really afraid I had broken something by taking the intake assembly off.
I used the battery out of another car to start it, as my battery had died for some reason, while I was waiting to figure out what tubing I was going to use for the breather hoses.
The engine would turn over with the starter, and very easily fire-up and run for a few seconds or so, and then sputter out. I would wait 30 seconds to a minute between tries, and when it kept doing it, I went and put the ignition key in the house, and came back out with the plastic key that only works for lockouts, but doesn't start the engine. It would turn the starter motor, but the engine would not fire up, and then I re-tried the normal key, and it was just like the first time: it would fire up, but not run for more than a short few seconds.

So I gave up and tried to take a nap. And I wonder if I had just flooded it somehow, because about an hour's nap I tried again, and it kept running after startup, but the CATalytic converter idiot light kept flashing, and it stuttered a bit. I let it run for about a minute after the light started flashing, but it didn't get any smoother on idle, so I shut it off, and then tried to start it again about a minute after that. It started right up and ran, the CAT light came on solid for about ten seconds and turned off, as the idle seemed to get a bit smoother.

So I took it for a drive, and the CAT light started flashing again about five minutes into the drive, and it seemed to be running a bit rough, still. I stopped for a bit, and then thought that maybe the problem might go away if I just got everything up to speed, and at least warmed up. So I kept going on m way again, and everything did seem to just smooth itself out, and the CAT light stayed off this time.

It even seemed easier to drive. Maybe it was from the more constant rpms, and better vacuum? That could make the steering and the braking seem easier and smoother to use, right?

Anyways, that was the story of day zero, and now I'll keep watching for engine symptoms, as I turn my focus on hunting down that voltage leak, for which I think I'll create a new thread, but I'll post engine codes here, if any of the old engine gremlins come back.

Thanks again to everyone!

midnightgolfer

It's quite apparent now that there's still a problem.
Here's the codes that still come back:


Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 4D0 907 557 A
Component: 3,7L V8/4V MOTR AT D04
Coding: 04253
Shop #: WSC 02314
VCID: 2A55FD5AFC79

5 Faults Found:

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17541 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1&B2 S1; Heating Circuit: Elect. Malfunction
P1133 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A


Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 4D0 927 156 L
Component: AG5 01V 3.7lV8 RdW D74
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3265E53AD4A9

1 Fault Found:
18265 - Load Signal: Error Message from ECU
P1857 - 35-00 - -

Based on listening, to the engine, I'd guess that I shouldn't have tried to reuse the intake manifold gasket, even though it seemed fine. I'm pretty sure I've got an air leak on one side of that gasket, as well as possible leaking o-rings at the injectors.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming that would cause unmetered air to get into the system, and that would just compound the problem of a MAF sensor that's dirty / dying.

The MAF sensor connector is tight, but I haven't tried cleaning it yet, since all I can get is brake cleaner, and I'm not sure it's the same stuff as MAF cleaner. (And I'm tired.)

tozoM8

At idle (closed throttle) the smallest vacuum leak could cause rpm fluctuation.