dreamhope

Change it this afternoon. Took me 6 hours in total, including one hour trying to do it without removing the timing belt cover and another hour cleaning the viscous fan and the timing belt cover.

This would've been so much easier if the engineer who design it had moved the radiator hoses 1/2 inch up and the alternator 1/2 inch down. I ended up replacing the coolant for the third time in five months.



btw, I haven't noticed any change in the way the car runs.

silverd2

The engineers did get it "right" (well, easier) a few years later...the 40V lower mount support is way easier to remove than on the PFL engine.

You may not "feel" this part, but it still serves an essential purpose...just like lots of other structural components you never feel.

dreamhope

And here's another example:

I changed the oxygen sensors this afternoon. On the passenger side there's this 'wiring harness bracket holder' that is directly above the oxygen sensor, making it impossible to use any socket without moving this 'holder'.

To loosen it (10 mm), I had to use a 1/4" socket with a piece of metal, because the nut is hidden in a groove where a ratchet can't fit in.

It was not easy to loosen, after which the holder could be tilted away. I didn't bother to fasten it. This nut is hidden on the right side of the red circle. Of course, it was under the 'holder'.

They should've moved this 'holder' 1/2" higher (it's not like the bracket has to be of that particular shape after all, so even the position of the wiring harness needn't be changed). This design is there to make maintenance difficult deliberately.

dreamhope

took for a ride on A86 around Paris and saw for the first time 30 mpg (7.8 l/100km) on the trip computer

twentysevenlitres

Does this mean you had the transmission fixed Dreamhope?

BrianC72gt

I'm pretty sure in Vag Com you can cycle the two side engine mounts and it will tell you if they check out OK.

dreamhope

Had it fixed for 3555.43 EUR, but it was a poor job. I'm sure they didn't change the valve body, and they certainly didn't fasten all the bolts (at least four on the belly pan and one on the exhaust pipe). They also didn't repaint the housing. Shifts are still rough, and there's occasional hunting.

I'm taking the car back today. Will threaten legal counsel.

twentysevenlitres

I went and found the transmission thread after I posted that!
For that sort of dough, you would expect a top class job - it may have an Audi badge on the car, but at the end of the day it's a ZF transmision - Ford and GM are using them these days!

dreamhope

Well, I talked to him nicely but also handed him a list of the problems w/ a threat of legal counsel at the end. Hope he gets the message. Undoubtedly he tried to skimp.

Again, if I knew the transmission would fail so soon at the very least I could've got a 2001 S8 with lower mileage and broken gearbox for less.

hillpc

1997 A8Q.

Just got around to starting mine (completely torn in 2) , but I have a 12 mm gap to fill. I see one shim in the top mounting pieces that are bolted to the frame, which according to descriptions from Audi dealer parts websites seems to be 1 mm thick. So taking that out's not gonna help much to close up the gap. And 2 of the 3 bolts holding the top aluminum plate (top mounting surface) were missing, and the other one is heavily rusted. (My impact gun wouldn't budge it. I don't think I have the guts to get in there with an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the bolt and the surrounding aluminum to break it loose.) I have just replaced the other 2 bolts. If I use makeshift shims under the egg, say U-shaped fender alignment shims from 60's US cars, I'll only have about 5mm of thread sticking out the bottom. That won't even reach through the bottom nut, even without the washer.

I suspect the 2 main engine mounts have sagged somewhat, opening up the gap to 12 mm. There doesn't seem to be anything obviously broken with the mounts (although I wouldn't know what to look for anyway), but the engine fan seems to sit about 7 mm lower than center, by measuring the fan blade tip to fan shroud distance at 12 and 6 o'clock. I had the front subframe out of the car to remove the trans, as I got the car with the often blown A clutch drum. (This is my first Audi.) I did not change the engine or trans mounts. It seems to drive fine. How important is it for those engine mounts to be not sagged? What would you do? I'm a little wary of shimming the engine mounts up without knowing if I'll destroy something. They seem to be easily accessible. If I do shim them, what should I do about the trans mounts?