CaseyH

Anyone know the size of the speakers in the D2? I think the quality of the stock speakers is pretty good but nowhere near aftermarket. I want to replace them. Anyone done this?

houseofsound

and integrate an amp such as the Diamond Audio D7056 6 channel between the deck and speakers along with a separate sub volume control so you can control the output of the oem or aftermarket sub separate from the rest of the system. This will make the oem speakers come alive and sound pretty awesome. Even the oem "subs" will perform much better, but obviously can't replace a true subwoofer.

Unless your budget allows a complete speaker and amp revision, this is the best first step. If you still want better speakers, you are already half way there with the amp already interfaced. If you don't, you saved yourself some $$. The next step is to get a good sub in there.

Basically, when it is time to upgrade, make each step count so you don't have to keep changing to get the result you want.

One more thing. Just removing the oem speakers and dropping in a replacement won't work. Basically the impedence (ohms) of each speaker can't be matched correctly to work with the Bose, which can lead to failure of the oem deck or amp. It will also affect the oem amps power output and settings. Example: 100 watts to a 4 ohm speaker=50 watts to an 8 ohm and 200 to a 2 ohm. Crossover frequencies are also halved or doubled.

These are the oem sizes, but larger speakers will fit:

Front doors: 4" mid and tweeter.
Rear doors: 4" mid. Most A8's did not come with a tweeter back there even though there are provisions for it.
Rear deck: 5" or 6" subs. Don't recall.

CaseyH

Thanks for the info!

Alan S

Hi Houseofsound, sounds like you know what you are talking about with in car audio!

Can you please answer some more questions, because I am also wanting to upgrade the sound in my 1997 S8.

At the moment I have this unbelievable, one pitch, high whine coming from the speakers, from the CD palyer, but even when listening to FM radio, (although it is not so loud). I have tried to clean all the connections, behind the concert radio and from the CD but it is still there. When the engine is switched off it goes away (It's not the ignition system as it does not change with engine revs).

Anyway I thought the best thing to do is to replace the Bose amp, and the connecting cable from the Concert to the amp, as well as the cable from the CD changer.

I have a 10" JB Sub to put in the trunk and let the base come through the ski hatch.

So, my questions are:-

Can you recommend a good amp that will allow me to set or tune the sound from each channel individually to get the best out of each set of standard speakers. It needs to be compatible with the speakers and Concert.

Where can I get the amp/cables/control system from? I am in the UK, but coming over to our house in Forida in a few weeks time.

Can I change these setting remotely, or do I need to do it on the amp itself?

Thanks for your help and advice.

Alan S

Nottingham England

Tim H A8L

I added an Alpine v12 and a sub to my D2, and left the other existing speakers and amp alone. I must tell you the sound was outstanding. It doesn't seem like this would make the difference, but it lets you focus the oem amp and speakers on the higher and midrange, and the sub really adds depth even at low volume. My D3 oem system is good, and the sub is adequate, but I miss the other set up with the oomph that added. I am quite impressed with Alpine, and this bypasses the Bose impedance problem...
Good luck.

houseofsound

Also, the only impedence matching issue is with the oem amp and aftermarket speakers. I just thought I should clarify.

houseofsound

As for the constant whine you get through the speakers you say it happens regardless of the source playing. It's probably a signal grounding problem. Not sure where though. It could be a defective component or a million other things. As a fix you say that you may replace the Bose amp and the harnesses from the head unit to the amp and the head unit to the cd chgr. First it would be expensive to go anywhere near that route if it can even be done. I doubt you can get the harnesses separately seeing they are probably prewired in one main harness. I'm not 100% sure though, but I am sure it will be much $$$ if it is available separately.

You should go the route I posted above. The problem should definately go away. If not it probably has something to do with the head unit. At that point, at least you didn't spend all that money on an oem harness and the oem amp. Now you would only need to swap out the oem head unit w/ a new one although I doubt it will go that far.
Go the Diamond amp route. It's 6 channel so you would have control over each set of speakers individually, but not by remote. Basically set it and forget it. You will have separate control of your sub (JB? Probably JL or JBL) through a 1/2" diameter **** mounted anywhere you want. Turn **** counterclockwise, less or no bass, turn it clockwise and dial in the right amount of bass.
As for wiring, don't worry about it. When you know you will be back in Florida, email me and I will get you the right guy for the job down there. Most of the work is just creative wiring and can be done in 3-4 hours correctly depending on how the amp is mounted. 99% of the interfacing is right at the stock amp. Plus the battery is in the trunk.

Email me when you know you'll be back in the states.

Matt

Alan S

I think I probably didn't explain what i want to do too well!

I want to retain the head unit and the Bose speakers, but install a different amplifier to run the existing Bose speakers and the JL subwoofer that I intend to install in the trunk. I know you can get an aftermarket converter cable to take the output from the head unit into the amplifier, thereby improving the qulaity of the cable and maybe removing the source of the noise.

As well as this I would like a seperate control of the sub, which you indicate can be a simple potentiometer placed somewhere convenient.

The fact that you have experience of an amp that works well with the existing speakers and will allow tuning of the channels and control of the subwoofer is attractive.

I live in England, but am fortunate enough to have a house in Florida and I notice that this type of equipment is lower priced in the US than in Europe, so your advice as to what I need and where to buy it from would be excellent!

The details of the amp, control cable for the subwoofer etc would be most welcome. I presume you are in the States.

Thanks again. If you need anything bringing over from Europe, please let me know if I can help you in any way.

Alan S

2005audia8

I own a 2005 A8 I want to remove the bose speakers/ subwoofer
and replace with all MB Quarts speakers/ amps/ subwoofers
but retain the factory head unit display and MMI control features
Can this be done? I was told it has a fiber optic interface and can not be done Help!

brickcity

how did you do this?