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Hi everyone,
I would appreciate if anyone could guide me through speedometer replacement procedures step-by-step. I have 1997 A8 (3.7) AEW and drive it without speedometer/odometer working. The transmission replaced/repaired and mechanics did not replace the old speedometer sensor with the new one. Everything works except the speedometer hand. I checked below and it's plug was hanging loose with one wire simply ripped. I need to reconnect it. The problem is that the VSS (as I assume it s called) has 2 connectors but the plug itself has 3. So how to connect them?
Anyway, the procedure would be replacement and rewiring.
Thanks a lot
If there is no signal the shop may have damaged or left out the reluctor ring when they reinstalled the stub shaft.
Dear jfrahm
Thanks a lot for the link and explanation. Do you mean drive magnet ring by 'reluctor ring'? If yes, than can it be replaced without taking down the whole transmission? Or can be installed by taking out the left axle and cover ( as I see from the picture)? Can I buy the ring separately? Is it available in shops as a separate part?
I do have the new VSS and will check the connector issue as I saw the wires hanging off. However, just in case, I might need to have the ring also replaced.
You are right that ring is a ring of magnets and not a reluctor. My mistake.
Hopefully the wiring is the issue. If not, the part can be replaced just like if you are replacing the axle seal on that side, yes by removing the flange and axle stub. Someone with a core transmission would probably give you the part, it's not a wear item. You can probably put a DMM on the sensor pins and see some action if you spin that wheel. AC volts maybe.
I've had that part off several times replacing axle shaft seals, there are some good youtube vids on it and I can also post notes.
Thank you so much for this valuable for me information. I will try to do this job most likely next week. The point is that I am in a country where practically there are NO Audi or professional mechanics of Audi/VW. They do have tools, do have the practice of mechanic jobs but it is rare when one understands the core problem and how to fix it. Therefore, I need to instruct them on procedures staying under the car until they do what I want. That is why I collect the information first and then armed with this info go to the mechanic.
THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR KIND SUPPORT.
I will post results as soon as I have it done.
Hi jfrahm
I have two more questions:
First is about the transmission work; recently the transmission was rebuilt and I noticed that the the switch which connects to the transmission is quite old and when the oil was leaking it might have got in it. I cleaned for as much as I could but the harness itself is not very well protected from moist or oil leaks. Actually, transmission does not show changes in operation but in downshift it is slightly rough, especially when it downshifts from 5 to 4 or 4 to 3. Once even got in a limp mode when i accelerated instantly. I have suspicion that the switch (what they call Neutral Switch) can cause this problem. I had once the same shifting problems on VW Passat and what I did was: 1. replaced bad catalytic converters (it was quattro) with what they call here "flame arresters". This actually eliminated acceleration hesitation it used to have; 2. I replaced the MAF, and car improved dramatically. No more hesitations or problems with downshift. In this country catalytic converters have no meaning. Usually they are emptied on older cars. MAF was quite expensive, though. However, with Audi I suspect the Switch more than other reasons.
I do have a whole set of engine harness I bought from junkyard and it is in good condition, but here is a problem - it comes from same year and model but 4.2 AWD and mine is 3.7 FWD. I checked but upper part of the harness does not match mine, although the lower part (connector to the transmission looks the same). I just wanted to resolder the connector but hesitate as I do not know if wiring of these connectors are the same although both are 8-pin Swith connector. The problem is that I cannot find 3.7 engine harness in this part of the world.
This is the lower part I am talking about
So, if I did the same on my Audi A8, do you think it will help with downshift problem? Can the Switch cause these problems if oil drips into the protective harness (usually rubber)? It IS vulnerable as torn little bit in places. What is your opinion?
I'm not experienced with the (gear selector?) switch or wiring harness issues.
Rough downshifts for me have been caused by a worn main pressure control valve in the transmission, maybe this was not addressed when your transmission was repaired or rebuilt. It appears that sometimes this valve gets stuck and breaks the transmission A drum or the F piston seal and people repair the broken parts but do not address the root cause, pressure spikes from the main pressure control valve. Then the repaired transmission breaks again.
It sounds like you have the 5HP19 transmission also, I am not familiar with that one, what little I know is related to the 5HP24A. You might look for info from an Audi forum where the FWD 5HP19 is more prevalent like the 80/90 series or even a BMW forum. https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/united...s-id-guide.pdf
The 5HP19 sounds like it has similar issues to the 24 and a similar repair procedure:
thanks a lot for this useful information. I will be working on it. It is really complicated issues but I will show it to the mechanic and let's wee what will happen. By the way can I buy this valve i the video separately on ebay or elsewhere? I do not want to be a pain in a neck, though, but if you find some time to reply, I would appreciate it.
Thanks
01-30-2019, 10:44 PM
Speedometer sensor location and replacement guide
