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Had to swap the ABS module back in as it was not compatible. Ran into issues when I tried to turn off the traction control. constant beeping. Swapped it and problem solved. So I have a spare 04 ABS module.
Found the CAN BUS issue tonight. It was caused by the adding of the Sirius unit. Can bus did not like it till programmed. image below. Fixed that but still no antenna reception it appears.
Installed the Roof rack. Will get a pic tomorrow, I think it looks pretty good.
Turns out there might very well be an issue with my 05 ABS module. It started with the beeping and the Front right sensor code again. still Just that one (swapped from rear right since they are the same). Looking for a new ABS module locally or will send mine out for repair if I have to.
Keys: Does this mean the 2nd key is bad? Standard switchblade keys no push button start.
Key 1, been using for 2 weeks no issues. Knock on wood. Key 2. New battery, re-joined it to the car (locks, unlocks and starts the car, Key was was 30 feet away).
Oil changed! stupid design Audi. Way to make it a pain the *** with the air box removal. But found a bad front motor mount. Anything other than OEM at $230 to $280?
Motor mounts very labor heavy to do. I was told that the motor mounts fail safe to a 'hard' setting, so unless it is causing serious issue e.g. you hear / feel clunking around and the engine shift you can hold off. My left side motor mount is "ruptured / leaking" according to Audi, but so far nothing too bad. Someone on the A4 forum said there is some kind of air intake hose or something that gets pinched when the motor mounts start to give due to the movement of the motor but I am not sure about the A8. That being said I think there are motor mounts for $99 but I wouldn't skimp on it because this will probably be the only time you do it. But good lord it takes a while to do even for the pros with all the right equipment from what I understand. A $99 part will still cost $700 in labor to install at a lot of places..
Where'd you get the roof rack? It looks great.
Also, now is the time to get those windows tinted- I've got the same wheels/color/etc and the tint looks really slick. Do mind to check your window wells (look down in them after rolling down the window) and look for any metal pushing into the glass. That's a sign of a broken window regulator / winder, where the metal at the top above a top pulley gets bent and pushes into the glass. It will peel your tint open like a can of sardines on its first trip down into the well post-tint!
Yep, that is the torque valve, also called torque insulator! It's not failed entirely, but it will have reduced utility like that. Some have failed so badly that the rubber has torn entirely through all the way around! It's tricky to get out, but if you check out my post on the oil cooler leak repair, I cover how to remove the torque valve with a couple pictures. You will need steps 3 and 5-9.
MMI Screen completely stopped working last night. Ran an optical bus diagnostics. showed an issue with Sat Radio unit. Unplugged it, put the optical loop back in and all started working again. Guessing this has a little to do with the issue of the Sirius unit not activating. Looking for a replacement now.
Also looking for a good Android Bluetooth option besides the Denison one. I bought the bovee one, but apparently the 2G model AMI/MMI does not transmit 12v to power it. So that is going back. Going to check out these guys it appears the hardwired kit and the other piece should work and transmit song data to the MMI, will be researching specific feedback from Audiworld later tonight on them. Add Bluetooth A2DP Streaming to your Audi - A2DP4AUDI - Audi Bluetooth Adapters
Satellite radio solved - Turned out to be a bad module. Replaced it with a different one and BOOM Sound, activated.
Rebuilt the compressor with BagPipingAndy's kit tonight. Pumps up way faster. Going to watch the system and see if I get any issues moving forward. Had over heating and 01772 - Signal from Level Control Pressure Sensor (G291) previously but not consistently.
Checked the upper control arms on drivers side and they appear to be good still, rubber is cracked but not completely torn. Removed the pinch bolt and they have plenty of spring to them. Still have clunking sounds like from both sides.
Closer to the location of the oil leak at the front. Either the cam cap or the front main based on where I have fresh oil. Gonna have to dive into that soon.
Re: the BagPipingAndy kit - I took a look at this and think I'm going to order it so I have it on hand when I decide to tackle it. However, what is this I am hearing about some kind of desiccant being required? Am I thinking some other piece of equipment or something? I haven't taken a look at ELSA/Bentley Guide although it probably won't be so helpful since it recommends replacing the pump as a whole.
Any light you can shed on the repair of the compressor?
I ordered a rebuild kit off ebay, it wasn't BagPipingAndy's kit. After changing my desiccant, I'm confident that it should be changed if you are doing a rebuild anyway, mine was definitely used up, and the higher moisture content could contribute to corrosion in the system and eventual valve failures. I think the desiccant can be purchased separately quite cheaply.
11-08-2018, 08:14 PM
