awkishi

Hello, anybody can help with an issue with my air suspension on my 2006 A8L? It works fine all year long until the weather is hot, above 90 or 100, then sometimes it wont lift and the suspension light comes on, do I have a leak or bad compressor sensor? what do you guys know? thank you.

dvs_dave

awkishi

Thank you,

MP4.2+6.0

BUT...

often the compressor wearing out is the symptom, not the underlying issue. As in, you could well have both problems now. That is, an overworked compressor because of a leak, which has to kick in a lot to keep suspension up, including after you park it.

Thus: park it, put it in Jack mode via MMI. Come back next day and see how it looks. Or, for ultimate simple approach to be sure no electronic genies are intervening: park, disconnect battery, LEAVE TRUNK OPEN (due to electric trunk release; or know how to open it with key), and return next day to look.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

It won't lift but do you hear the pump? The pump doesn't run when the system is airtight. The reservoir and the valve block keep the car up. Change the pump is a shot in the dark and 99% NOT fixing the problem.
Follow MP4 instructions to find the real culprit. Valve leaks can be at pump & valve block non return release valves but I doubt it.
Cheers,
Louis

jlbell

One thing I have noticed, in my car, is that the system will let air out of the shocks, when the car is locked (standard operation from SSP). Whenever I return the next day, it then lifts back to the original position, thus using the air in the reservoir. Almost always following the air compressor kicks in at 25 mph to fill the reservoir back up. Doing this multiple times over many shortstops causes the air compressor to overheat. One way I currently work around the issue, mainly seen during the summer, is to put the car in jack mode whenever I park it. In my opinion, letting out that much air is pointless. Also, IIRC I have a TSB that says it is normal to have a stored pump overheat DTC intermittently. I am not saying that my compressor is operating at full strength, as I have had to rebuild it twice already. The next time I start having consistent issues with it I am going to buy a new pump, not a $1,200 Audi one, but rather a $400 Mercedes one that can be retrofitted into our cars, as they are the same pump. Lastly, if you think you may have a leak in your system, I developed a better way of testing that as well. So keep an eye out for both of those, as I should be posting about it today.

mixja23

I got this for around $600...

a_very_naudi_guy

What's in there - a replacement pump? Good price if that's OEM. I've seen the installs on those and it looks pretty darn easy and certainly saves a lot of money from having the dealership do it. If I recall correctly, you put the car on a jack, remove the drivers side front wheel and the pump lies behind there, right? A guy on Youtube has a video of him and a buddy doing it. It took them about 45 minutes.

Regards

mixja23

Yes indeed, replacement compressor, I believe OEM, Wabco....
I was surprised at the price also tbh, it's over $1100 at Audi USA Parts...

Air Supply - AIR-SUSPENSION-SHOP

Can't help you with install tho lol, I had absolutely no hand in that...!!

a_very_naudi_guy

Wow. I may have to buy one of those to keep around for the inevitable install. The last owner sold the car because one of the recommended repairs was the pump as it was pulling too much amperage. I only seem to have problems, so far, on a cold start on a very cold day when the suspension warning light will come on. I pull over, turn off the car, turn it back on, and it's fine and the DTC goes away. According to Audi, though, it was 'pulling too many amps' or something. Knowing that I can get an OEM for $600 is awfully tempting. I'll see how much they ding me for the headlight fix and see what car funds I have after that, lol.

Other issues (aside from that head light) are a leaking engine mount (replacement part OEM $300 , install is laborious, I can probably find a gearhead to work on that and help me and learn a lot in the process) and the drive belt needs to be replaced as its cracking.. it was installed in 2011, so even though it hasn't had too many miles applied, it's def old. They said a visual inspection shows some wear. They wanted $320 to replace just the belt, not the tensioner or anything, and I can find someone to install that for $120.

Anyway, rant over - good find, thank you!