Jack88

Well, this Audi really, really doesn't want to have any repairs done to it, it's fighting me every step of the way. I am now cursing Ingolstadt up and down for their choice in fasteners, they truly are asinine. In my efforts to remove the oil cooler, I decided to follow some advice and remove the cross member and front passenger motor mount, on account of not really being able to access all the bolts properly with it in the way. Now I got the cross member off, but the 6 inch extension and 8mm hex bit slipped, despite my best efforts, and stripped the bolt. Now tomorrow, I have to buy yet another extractor to try to get this one out and see the dealer about a replacement. Why do Audi's have such hard to reach bolts torqued down so hard and why the hell do they use the notoriously delicate hex and star bit bolts for it? What's wrong with standard hex head bolts?! Those are harder to round and easier to handle when they do.

Also, I tried to use the nut I had JB Welded onto the stripped valve cover bolt and it twisted off immediately, didn't do squat to help with the bolt. I've never even close had anywhere near this number of problems trying to fix a car before, is this thing cursed?!

MP4.2+6.0

Now a 13 year old car of course, plus it has lived in various other climates. Albeit with 13 years of prior repairs on yours, FWIW on the fasteners I don't usually get burned on them.

I did finally throw my old set of Lisle "foreign car parts" store of yore triple square bits/tools in trash. They were like 25 years old when I realized last year they just weren't sharp in the tips any more. Better results after that with off the shelf replacements. And for another obscure Audi tip, they occasionally like T27 Torx screws (like on tranny pan I think). Not clear why they couldn't just go T25 or T30, but nope another weird half step. I mention that because any time you see what you think ir looks like T25, be suspicious. Have a T27 tool, and check it with that first. And yep, a good way to round out a T27 screw is with a T25 tool that does fit in and can turn a loose screw, but you notice is slightly sloppy.

Jack88

Oh yeah, this was with a brand new 8mm hex bit. The condition of the bolt was likely the blame, combined with the 6 inch extension, it just happened. I'll be looking for an extractor that can go on the outside of the bolt and bite it, I think that's my best bet here. For the valve cover bolt, I may try the same thing, if I can find the right size. Else I have to pay someone else to do it, which it may come down to. This oil cooler can't beat me, though, I simply cannot afford to pay someone else to do it.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I've never seen anyone who broke so many things while fixing car. I don't think you have the right tools. Unless someone did so wrong on your car

Jack88

I have never broken so many things working on a car before, and I've worked on plenty. Nor have I ever hit such oddball roadblocks on a regular basis. This stuff really was never intended to come apart. The valve cover bolt was previously damaged, the broken tools stem from not having the right ones. This latest stripping, I don't know. I was using the most appropriate tool and I am certain I had the bit all the way in, and I was working hard to keep it all the way in. I think the shaft of the extension was touching the lip of the oil pan due to tight clearance and acted as a lever to further encourage the bit twisting out, leading to the damage. It isn't completely stripped, I can still see the hex shape, but it's likely beyond being able to get a good enough bite.

Dino1147

Get some steel stock or use a sacrificial hex bit a little larger than the one that fits the bolt. I assume it'll be tricky heating up the bolt but it would help. Hammer the new 'tool' into that bolt head until it's so stuck it will only turn clockwise and come out with the tool firmly attached. Discard the bolt and get another one.

If you can get to the valve cover bolt, cut a slot in it and use a screwdriver type tool with more leverage. Or cut another shape and cut a piece of steel to match. I have a 69 Charger which has needed a few tools to be made to remove stubborn bolts.

angelglo

dont know if you saw my post on your valve cover thread but i posted a pic of the bolt extractor that you probably should try to use.

Jack88

I did! And that will be my next step!

Aceler8

I feel your pain...i stripped a few valve cover bolts as well. The key to not stripping is alignment. If you are off slightly, the bolt will strip. My valve cover job took around 20 hours (just 1 side)....i somehow managed to 'cut' the new gasket in half when installing it. To this day, i have no idea how the tear happened. So, the next week i was doing the job all over again. That was fun.

My only advise is to try to be patient and take your time. Keep cold beer handy and when you feel frustrated, take a beer or soda break.

The A8 has to be the hardest car i've ever worked on and i've had plenty including jet skis, boats, golf carts, etc.

Jack88

Oh yes, this thing has been Pandora's Box for sure! I opened it up only intending to do the torn CV boot and as I got into it, I started noticing more and more things needing attention. Upper and lower control arm bushings, valve cover gasket leak, torque mount, and worst of all being the leaky oil cooler. But as much frustration as it has been, I'm sure I will feel really good when I get it back together and have it sorted. Of course, there were the early signs of strut failure on the car just before I parked it, I'm hoping it was due to the shop not reconnecting the air line tightly when they replaced the strut, else I will look into cost and difficulty of rebuilding the strut myself rather than pay for a new one or risk yet another used one. I've seen enough on here to convince me aftermarket or other rebuilds are not a good option.