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Another problem - Mostly just venting

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Another problem - Mostly just venting

 
Old 06-22-2018, 04:21 PM
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Working on Audi A8 does need correct tools and finesse, unlike normal cars.
With bolts and hex that are out of sight and just by feel, make sure there's no play between sockets and the bolts using fingers before torquing with the handle-perpendicularly.
Cheers,
Louis
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7 View Post
Working on Audi A8 does need correct tools and finesse, unlike normal cars.
With bolts and hex that are out of sight and just by feel, make sure there's no play between sockets and the bolts using fingers before torquing with the handle-perpendicularly.
Cheers,
Louis
Yep! Sometimes you make a mistake despite doing your best to do all that, but the good news is in addition to removing the two stripped bolts on the car, I got the oil cooler off and back on the car. Took a little finesse to get the motor mounts to line back up with the forward engine cradle I had removed as part of the repair. My floor jack is failing apparently, it won't hold height anymore, so it let the front of the engine sag, but a strategically placed jackstand caught it before it dropped too far. I will be getting a new jack very soon, I think. There is a reason why I never get under a car that doesn't at least have a jackstand as a backup. From my experience with this, I would say that if you have the means to support the engine, this does allow for much easier access to two of the bolts on the cooler. The top one covered by the hardline is a bear no matter what you do, though.

I need to reinstall the alternator and torque mount for this portion of my repairs to be complete. The new valve cover bolt will be here Monday, in the mean time, I intend to take care of the lower control arm bushings and reboot the driver's CV joint, since I will be removing the knuckle to get the lower control arms off anyway, it's only 5 minutes more to get the halfshaft off. Two irritating things about the repair. I forgot to replace the O-ring for the black hardline that goes into the top of the oil cooler and the lower manifold stud second from the front just plain snapped when I tried to remove it. Should've used penetrating oil! Also, even though I got the oil cooler O-ring set, I didn't see one that looked like the rubber band style one that hardline has on it, all I had were traditionally shaped O-rings, excepting the funky double one you need for the oil inlet/outlet.
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Old 06-23-2018, 12:39 AM
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Precisely why I'm happy to pay somebody else to do all that ****e lol...
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mixja23 View Post
Precisely why I'm happy to pay somebody else to do all that ****e lol...
Why? It wasn't so bad, all I had to do was drain the oil and coolant, remove the air box, tensioner, idler pulley, torque mount, alternator, engine cradle, sway bar, motor mount, headlight, and then I had decent enough access to take off the oil cooler and replace the offending union.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack88 View Post
Why? It wasn't so bad, all I had to do was drain the oil and coolant, remove the air box, tensioner, idler pulley, torque mount, alternator, engine cradle, sway bar, motor mount, headlight, and then I had decent enough access to take off the oil cooler and replace the offending union.
Gone are the days of the old Ford Escorts when you can change a gearbox by yourself with nothing more than a couple of spanners lol...
I'm an old man now, I'd rather just get in it and drive it these days...!!
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:07 AM
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Congrats on the oil cooler, hope you took tons of pictures.
Cheers,
Louis
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7 View Post
Congrats on the oil cooler, hope you took tons of pictures.
Cheers,
Louis
I did not take many! I wanted to, but my hands were so greasy and dirty, I didn't want to use electronics. The leaky valve cover made a bit of a mess of things.
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Old 06-24-2018, 06:30 PM
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I just noticed one of my upper control arms has a split in the ball joint boot, probably from me grabbing it or something, but I can't find a replacement. I thought the boots on those could be replaced...
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Old 07-01-2018, 02:28 PM
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Ahh, I am fed up with delays! Now I have to wait for the dealer I ordered the brake rotors from to send me a new one because one was damaged. I would guess it was dropped from a height because it damaged the lip and deformed the metal onto the face of the rotor so that it's raised a couple millimeters. I never checked them when they arrived because how the hell do you damage a hunk of solid metal without trying to?!? I was all set to have it all back together and driving today!

At least there is good news, the front suspension and CV joints are back on the car, everything tightened down nice. I haven't put the sway bar back on yet, no reason, just hadn't got to it. Also haven't replaced the transmission filter seal, but I doubt that will be a big issue. I certainly don't want to attempt it while frustrated from the unexpected delay.

Last edited by Jack88; 07-01-2018 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:38 PM
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Okay, car is all back together, but I hit a dead battery! That stops me from charging the struts that were removed which stops me from tightening the axle nut and lugs, it stops me from topping off the oil properly, it stops me from bleeding the cooling system, and it stops me from finishing the fill on the transmission! The battery was unplugged after a week on jack stands, apparently that was not soon enough to stop the battery from draining. Should be ready to attend to the last details tomorrow and get the adaption done.
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