Adding a powered sub to B&O system...
#1
Adding a powered sub to B&O system...
Greetings All - I finally decided that I could no longer live with the limited bass offered through the B&O system - yes, I know that it's fine tuned and designed to sound great, which it does, but I was always wanting a little bit more kick...so I decided to do something about it.
I installed an Infinity Basslink DC powered sub to the system today and it's exactly what I think this system needed. I can now turn the bass down on the head unit, which allows the 12 mid's and tweeters as well as the included sub to sound sensational, and I get the extra bass kick that I want.
All in all it wasn't that bad of an install, and I'm absolutely loving the sound. If you've been disappointed in the bass in your B&O, this is an easy fix.
I installed an Infinity Basslink DC powered sub to the system today and it's exactly what I think this system needed. I can now turn the bass down on the head unit, which allows the 12 mid's and tweeters as well as the included sub to sound sensational, and I get the extra bass kick that I want.
All in all it wasn't that bad of an install, and I'm absolutely loving the sound. If you've been disappointed in the bass in your B&O, this is an easy fix.
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therealfleen (06-20-2021)
#3
JBowers!!!!! Hook us up on some details like which sub part #, who did the install, where was it installed in the car, etc!!!
in all honesty the B&O is not worth any money Audi charges let along the $6K price tag. It’s sounds good, but for a $100K+ car, this is a stock system and for $6K it better slam, which it doesn’t.
Very interested in your details
in all honesty the B&O is not worth any money Audi charges let along the $6K price tag. It’s sounds good, but for a $100K+ car, this is a stock system and for $6K it better slam, which it doesn’t.
Very interested in your details
#4
Pics and details from the install
Greetings all - ok, here are the details and the process to install. The powered sub is the Infinity BassLink DC - which you can pick up on Amazon for about $225.00 currently, or on Crutchfield for $460.00 Infinity BassLink DC Powered subwoofer with 200-watt amp and 10" sub at Crutchfield
I did the install myself and honestly it was way easier than I expected.
The first step was to access the "sub" from the B&O system, which is as simple as removing the trim piece that holds the grill in the center of the rear deck. I used a trim tool and it pops up with just a bit of pressure. If I recall, there are probably 11 clips.
Once you pop that cover off there are 8 phillip head screws holding the sub in place. I removed the screws and lifted the sub up to access the wiring to the sub. From there, I spliced into those wires and ran them through the side of the existing "sub" box for the B&O, To do so, I drilled a small hole and inserted a tiny grommet in the hole and pulled the wires through...I drilled the hole from inside the trunk. Essentially you remove the 4 trim holders that hold the upper trim piece in the trunk so you can pull it down gently to run the wiring.
I ran the power and ground directly from the battery area, with the power attached directly to the positive post and the ground to an existing ground spot near the battery. I added a 25a fuse about 5 inches from the battery. The wiring is run up the existing loom and wire tied up. I ran the wiring through the side panel in the trunk and pulled it down to the very bottom corner of the trunk, which is exactly where I routed the hi-level inputs from the sub. When wiring the input into the wiring harnass for the sub, I spliced together the right rear positive with the left rear positive and then attached that to the positive feed from the B&O splice and of course spliced the right rear negative with the left rear negative connected to the negative feed from the B&O splice. I'm not sure if this is necessary, but wanted to make sure it was running into two inputs as the Infinity instructions basically said for hi-level input it should be 2 or 4 inputs. Below are the pics from the remaining steps and the final product. I didn't drill holes to mount the speaker because I'm frankly not a fan of drilling holes into my car! Instead, I put heavy duty velcro (just the hook side) on the bottom of the sub bracket, which interacts with the carpeting in the trunk - it hasn't moved at all since I've installed it. You can place the sub anyway you like, and I may end up turning mine sideways at some point - but for now, the thing hasn't moved at all and it's easy to tune with the three dials on the sub.
I did the install myself and honestly it was way easier than I expected.
The first step was to access the "sub" from the B&O system, which is as simple as removing the trim piece that holds the grill in the center of the rear deck. I used a trim tool and it pops up with just a bit of pressure. If I recall, there are probably 11 clips.
Once you pop that cover off there are 8 phillip head screws holding the sub in place. I removed the screws and lifted the sub up to access the wiring to the sub. From there, I spliced into those wires and ran them through the side of the existing "sub" box for the B&O, To do so, I drilled a small hole and inserted a tiny grommet in the hole and pulled the wires through...I drilled the hole from inside the trunk. Essentially you remove the 4 trim holders that hold the upper trim piece in the trunk so you can pull it down gently to run the wiring.
I ran the power and ground directly from the battery area, with the power attached directly to the positive post and the ground to an existing ground spot near the battery. I added a 25a fuse about 5 inches from the battery. The wiring is run up the existing loom and wire tied up. I ran the wiring through the side panel in the trunk and pulled it down to the very bottom corner of the trunk, which is exactly where I routed the hi-level inputs from the sub. When wiring the input into the wiring harnass for the sub, I spliced together the right rear positive with the left rear positive and then attached that to the positive feed from the B&O splice and of course spliced the right rear negative with the left rear negative connected to the negative feed from the B&O splice. I'm not sure if this is necessary, but wanted to make sure it was running into two inputs as the Infinity instructions basically said for hi-level input it should be 2 or 4 inputs. Below are the pics from the remaining steps and the final product. I didn't drill holes to mount the speaker because I'm frankly not a fan of drilling holes into my car! Instead, I put heavy duty velcro (just the hook side) on the bottom of the sub bracket, which interacts with the carpeting in the trunk - it hasn't moved at all since I've installed it. You can place the sub anyway you like, and I may end up turning mine sideways at some point - but for now, the thing hasn't moved at all and it's easy to tune with the three dials on the sub.
#5
Ok. Thank you for that detailed info. I think I got a bit too excited and was wondering where your battery was then noticed your S8 is 07, I misread thinking 2017. Either way this is another great data point to consider. Thanks!
#6
AudiWorld Member
Thanks JBowers, nice, tidy looking compact install. I have to think through your wiring from the speakers. So did you disconnect the green/black wiring from the B&O sub and now that sub is inactive but rerouted that into the infinity sub/amp input? would that have just been enough? And than you spliced some wiring from the right and left rear speakers as well? Sorry, I'm a novice at this. Does the bass control on the stock MMI have any control over the level of base on the infinity sub unit?
#7
I did not disconnect the B&O Sub. I did tap into the green and black wiring and left the B&O Sub active. The Infinity Sub/Amp has a hi-level input, which takes speaker leads and converts the signal. The hi-level input for the Infinity sub is designed for "stereo connection" and since I was pulling the signal only from the B&O speaker lead, I basically put a "Y" on the + and - wire to enable me to tap into the left and right hi-level input on the amp.
The bass control on the stock MMI does have control over the bass level of the Infinity sub unit. I essentially now have the bass setting at less than 50% and now have very clean mid-range and solid bass.
The bass control on the stock MMI does have control over the bass level of the Infinity sub unit. I essentially now have the bass setting at less than 50% and now have very clean mid-range and solid bass.
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