Bluetooth phone module retrofit
#31
Sorry, I didn't see your last message until now. Nice work!
If it isn't too much to ask, can you please tell me the part number of your Bluetooth unit? And also the part number of the phone with color screen?
If it isn't too much to ask, can you please tell me the part number of your Bluetooth unit? And also the part number of the phone with color screen?
#32
AudiWorld Senior Member
ebay Germany is a good place to search
#33
I was actually more interested in the part number of the Bluetooth module (with RSAP) that you have.
But you can find easily the part number for your phone also - it is written in the battery compartment.
Also, do you have MMI 2G or 3G?
Thanks.
But you can find easily the part number for your phone also - it is written in the battery compartment.
Also, do you have MMI 2G or 3G?
Thanks.
#34
AudiWorld Member
HW Part 4E0 862 333x [Option 9ZJ] : known as "TELEFONMODUL EU" in VCDS/Red menus. Original Cell Phone unit using 'SIM reader' in armrest and car hifi to talk and listen. Optional Bluetooth Motorola handset in the armrest. This unit only supports Bluetooth to allow the optional Motorola Handset to participate - probably for back seat executives. This ECU has Purple [for external roof aerial] and yellow [for BT aerial in armrest] connectors. Latest firmware = 0770
HW Part 4E0 862 335 [Option 9ZF] : known as "Handyvorb2" in VCDS/Red menus. Later A8 Bluetooth unit that did away with optional handset and allowed Bluetooth phones to connect. This ECU only has a yellow ['circuit board' BT aerial] connector. Latest firmware = 1130
HW Part 4F1 862 335 [Option 9ZW] : known as "BTA" in VCDS/Red menus [and known as RSAP unit]. Even later BT phone connect ECU 'borrowed' from A6 [hence 4F.. prefix to HW part number]. Different BT ECU with connection to external aerial. This ECU has Purple [for external roof aerial] and yellow [for 'circuit board' BT aerial] connectors. Latest firmware = 1120
All three units were MOST bus connected; the latter two BT units had the same electrical connects that were different to the original unit's but as described elsewhere could be converted by 'pin mapping'.
Julian
Last edited by JulianHicks; 12-21-2017 at 12:24 PM. Reason: corrections for RSAP
#36
No need to apologize - your contribution is most welcome. It is not my thread anyway - I 'poked in' as well.
I ordered the latest version of the Bluetooth module (4F1 862 335), but I already have the first version (the one with Motorola Phone in the armrest) and I forgot that their connectors don't have the same number of pins, so now I am looking for the 54-pin connector to swap the old one.
Anyone knows the P/N for that?
I found out that it's the same connector as for TV-tuner and rear-view camera.
Thank you.
#37
AudiWorld Member
I ordered the latest version of the Bluetooth module (4F1 862 335), but I already have the first version (the one with Motorola Phone in the armrest) and I forgot that their connectors don't have the same number of pins, so now I am looking for the 54-pin connector to swap the old one.
Anyone knows the P/N for that?
Anyone knows the P/N for that?
"Just buy part number
Edit: I quoted that part in good faith from another reliable forum but as the OP points out below, it's incorrect. The correct part is 4E0 972 144
Julian
Last edited by JulianHicks; 08-15-2018 at 03:28 AM. Reason: Insert correct part number
#38
That's not the correct part number.
The correct part number is 4E0 972 144, but now I want to find out if that is the P/N for just the connector housing, or for the whole connector (including the blue 'core' with pin holes). I doubt it will come with the necessary pins, but that won't be a problem.
The correct part number is 4E0 972 144, but now I want to find out if that is the P/N for just the connector housing, or for the whole connector (including the blue 'core' with pin holes). I doubt it will come with the necessary pins, but that won't be a problem.
#39
AudiWorld Member
I found reference to someone who made the connection without the connector by relocating the pins in the old connector to match those that the BT unit requires:
Get the 36-pin connector for the BT kit and the 42-pin connector for the old kit side by side and pop the following pins from the old connector into the new positions on the old connector leaving the rest behind.
OLD - NEW
33 - 14 - Diagnostics
42 - 11 - MIC +
41 - 12 - MIC -
15 - 10 - Terminal 31 (or Earth to the rest of us)
16 - 2 - Terminal 31
35 - 1 - Terminal 30 (or +12V for real people)
Pin 3 on the new connector is a 'remote on' for the aerial amplifier which I don't think I have as there was no associated cable on the old kit as it had a built in unit.
Julian
Get the 36-pin connector for the BT kit and the 42-pin connector for the old kit side by side and pop the following pins from the old connector into the new positions on the old connector leaving the rest behind.
OLD - NEW
33 - 14 - Diagnostics
42 - 11 - MIC +
41 - 12 - MIC -
15 - 10 - Terminal 31 (or Earth to the rest of us)
16 - 2 - Terminal 31
35 - 1 - Terminal 30 (or +12V for real people)
Pin 3 on the new connector is a 'remote on' for the aerial amplifier which I don't think I have as there was no associated cable on the old kit as it had a built in unit.
Julian
Last edited by JulianHicks; 08-15-2018 at 03:43 AM.
#40
Yeah, I saw that. However, I don't like to do any retrofit in other style than the original. For instance, the 'electronic box' (plastic box in which the telephone module is located) is much larger than the new, bluetooth module. There is a special foam to fill the gap - its P/N is 4E0 035 733 C, and I paid for it less than $25 at the dealership.
Now, about that pinout... I have a better conversion (which should be more suitable for those who have the cradle with SIM card reader as it has more wires)... but use this information at your own risk!:
42-pin (old connector) to 54-pin (new connector) conversion:Now, about that pinout... I have a better conversion (which should be more suitable for those who have the cradle with SIM card reader as it has more wires)... but use this information at your own risk!:
42-pin - 54-pin
07 –––– leave it unconnected (Data +)
08 –––– 10 (TCU-GND)
15 –––– 32 (KL31 / GND)
16 –––– 33 (KL31 / GND)
28 –––– leave it unconnected (Data -)
29 –––– 03 (CNT RL)
33 –––– 14 (Diagnostics)
35 –––– 01 (KL30 / +12V)
36 –––– 01 (or leave it unconnected) (KL30 / +12V)
37 –––– 02 (KL31 / GND)
41 –––– 12 (MIC-GND)
42 –––– 11 (MIC +)
If you want to know the reason why I came up with a better conversion you may continue to read, otherwise you can stop here.
________________________________________________
The old conversion is not wrong, but this one seems better to me. I wanted to leave unconnected as few wires as possible.
First, the new unit has +12V on pin 1 and -12V (GND) on pin 2. So pin 2 will be the main ground. The old, 42-pin connector had pin 37 as main ground (as you can see in the attached pictures) and the other two brown wires are for additional ground (for various sub-systems). Of course, it's the same ground, but the main ground has a thicker wire for heavier load. This doesn't matter anymore because in manufacturer's specifications, the +12V wire is as thin as the others (you can connect both +12V wires from the old connector for a heavier load, but that's not really necessary because in the original schematics there is only one thin wire for +12V on the new unit), but still, pin 37 was the main ground on the old connector and it's logical to connect it to the main ground on the new connector.
Pins 8 and 29 from the old connector are not present in other conversions that you may find on the internet, but if your car has them, then you may find above the proper corresponding pins on the new connector.
Pins 15 and 16 are ground pins. There are many ground pins on the new connector, but pins 32 and 33 are the best match, as I needed two consecutive pins whose positions were just right for the length of the two wires. This makes these two wires to be the only wires assigned to row #2 of the connector. If you want to have a single-row connector, then you have to find other ground pins for that.
Pins 7 and 28 from the old connector are the only ones who will be left unconnected, because they are related to the SIM card which, on the new unit, is not located in the cradle anymore (it resides in the phone instead).
Last edited by silkworm; 02-01-2018 at 11:09 AM.