MP4.2+6.0

I needed VAG COM to release the brakes generally. Then I still needed to compress the piston more, which I did with a Harbor Freight type tool set. C clamps don't work in rear ( as I think we both know) both due to the brake release AND that the brake motor housing is plastic and will self destruct if clamping force is used on it--it is directly behind the piston where a clamp would go. Someone has managed to put a clamp right through one as I recall from an old post. That's a multi hundred dollar no-no of course. Audi dealer even just noted w/ my worn rear brakes it needed VAG COM; I think he realized I am prone to DIY but forgot I had told him other codes I had read when I brought in the car for its final warranty items at 4 years in service.

Meanwhile, I am a firm believer in the C clamp approach for most calipers, especially fronts. Newer Audi's with dual pistons are trickier--if you push one in, it's just like Whack a Mole where the other pops out. Had that just last night on my C5 with the HP2 set up. Thus, prying on the caliper bracket with the old pads in place is the way to go. Alternative is you have to block/obstruct one while pushing in the other, or span both with an old pad and clamp against that (unusual quad pad set up on old HP2's doesn't work for that one). My trusty Craftsman mega screwdriver with the thick long blade has always been the ticket here. Just pry between the outer pads and rotor with everything in place except the pad retainer clip. Same screwdriver I use to pop air box clips on a 4.2 C5 with the panel type filter. If they only knew...

A8 LOOONG

I used Autoanything.com. I have also ordered parts from Amazon.com in the past so try at least both of these. Rotors are heavy so go with one that offers free shipping. My rotors for my Ford Excursion weighed 60 lbs and Amazon paid the shipping!

MP4.2+6.0

Looked at OEM pad set I have and see it is stamped as sourcing from Pagid. A Euro supplier. Have seen a lot of pads off newer Audi's from them and from Jurid as another one. If you want OEM equivalent you could search on either brand name and get a variety of hits; just did and better prices are similar to EBC. Likely can also get Audi OEM via ecs tuning on line.

williebone

I had a custom set of Drilled/Slotted w/Black Hubs done at Adams Rotors and and went EBC Reds. Adam is comitted to Audizine only and will not advertise on any other Forum, but I stand by his Craftmanship as well the Audizine Community. Had my car in for Service and Audi Tech complimented the Brake Job. Best of luck. Laters,

williebone

cclcal

Your write up on your F & R brake mods are excellent.
I am in the process of changing my front and rear pads. Thought about the rotors too since I'm in there but I think I can get some more life out of them. All 4 rotors are slightly lipped, inside and outside. Of course dealer said replace pads and rotors, they didn't even measure rotors...

You think the OEM rotors are good for 100K miles? Or at least another 25K?
My wife drives the car and is fairly tame with the car. Car is @ 58K miles now.

Thank for your expert advice!

A8 LOOONG

It sort of depends on what you want to accomplish. If the current pads are worn so they trigger your "change brake pad light" and you just want that to go away, then change pads. If you want a real brake job done then change rotors too.


FWIW, I've raced two seasons now, on stock rotors with my EBC pads up front and they performed well. The yellows dust as much as stock too.

Brozee

Stock rotors definitely would not be good for 100k. I had them changed at roughly 80k. In that time frame the pads were changed two times. so 1 rotor life= 2 pad life cycles.

I would go aftermarket pads too. Just me though.

cclcal

thanks
I did end up installing EBC redstuff. I bought a caliper to measure rotor thickness and decide what to do after that.

Measured it to 31.5 - 32mm. Min is 31mm.

Mister Bally

My front rotors were replaced with the 2nd set of pad at about 140,000 miles. The rears are still onthe car with 145,000 on the rotors. I plan to replace the rear rotors and pads by the 150,000 mile mark.

MP4.2+6.0

Don't know if you will quite see 100K on the fronts, but if you are at 58K now, that sounds like you likely have some more miles left. And as Mr. Bally reports, my Audi experience is the rears wear much more slowly than the fronts. Very front heavy car, most of braking action up front, etc. My most comparable experience is probably my C5 A6 with the 4.2. Weighs similarly to the D3 4.2. Had what were then big stock rotors (322mm), and it was pushing 100K miles when I changed them. D3 rotors are yet larger diameter giving it more "wear area" effectively. Net, to save $ you might decide to go one more pad cycle in front.

As you posted, best to check it with a mic/caliper. You can eyeball it just by looking at how deep that lip has gotten. My own experience is I have never lost an Audi rotor to cracking, and really not to warping either, just basic wear. As you wear them more, the heat sink capability is dropping so they are somewhat less effective against heat fade. But, these are brake systems literally built for Autobahn speeds.

Finally, if I remember the various posts in the thread, you were going with EBC reds. I continue to like them for both feel and low dust. I am finding now over several pad changes and a couple of cars that they are harder on rotors, so figure that may cut your rotor life some. The pads last about as many miles as stock on the same vehicle from my own use so far.