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Can a 4.2L cylinder head be pulled w/o pulling the motor?
I have a 4.2L 40v belt driven motor in an 06' D3 A8L.
I've referenced ElsaWin already and see that the directions state to pull the engine in order to pull a cylinder head.
I need to pull my passenger side head and was wondering if anyone has accomplished this while leaving the motor in the car? I'd obviously prefer this route and since they are head bolts and not studs I feel it might be possible even though there isn't much strut tower clearance.
D3, not 100% sure. But my narrower fender to fender 2000 A6 4.2 port injection belt drive (basically the same except maybe cat position), yes. First person/did it myself.
D3, not 100% sure. But my narrower fender to fender 2000 A6 4.2 port injection belt drive (basically the same except maybe cat position), yes. First person/did it myself.
Thanks, this was probably the encouragement I needed to do this job today. I have never owned a c5 before- does the 4.2L sit in the same spot? Valve covers up against the strut towers?
Thanks, this was probably the encouragement I needed to do this job today. I have never owned a c5 before- does the 4.2L sit in the same spot? Valve covers up against the strut towers?
4.2 C5 suspension design is basically same as D3, other than steel springs instead of air units. Engine was shoehorned in, given C5 is about 3" narrower than D3 IIRC.
I alluded to it indirectly, but look at the clearance of the exhaust manifold. You pull a head with that still bolted on, so it has to come out the top. On the C5 it was still a conventional manifold, albeit stainlesss. With tightening smog rules after 2003, IIRC the forward cat moved in close to motor or got integrated with manifold. If that got a lot fatter/bulkier, it could be hard to pull out from above. In the pic I posted, you can see my C5 headpipe in the shadows in lower left, with forward O2 sensor sticking out the side of it. That was the C5 unbolt point for the exhaust when pulling the head.
Because the timing belt drive takes a lot of space actually in front of the motor, without that pulley and the covers and such you can pull the head forward some as you lift it out. Only question for that is whether something lower down like the A/C, oil cooler, etc. hang up against the exhaust manifold. Again in the picture you can see that cavity where the exhaust manifold and such drop down and in place. Net, on C5 it was not particularly hard or a super tight fit to remove.
If you do it, be sure to buy new head bolts. They are stretch design so should not be reused. They take a pretty oddball star tool too. Not a conventional hex bolt head, nor an allen like they used to be. Takes some poking around web, but eventually I found the bolts and gasket set from a non-dealer source for fewer $$. FWIW, it would also be the time to do the infamous cooler water pipe and to look really critically at the engine torque mount. When I pulled mine, torque mount was broken in two. Ordered one up and like 20 minutes to change it out, instead of a bunch of hours if done standalone. Coolant sensor is another easy one to do at same time, which is probably a "when not if" fail part on Audi's in general.
I am looking to do the same job (replace passenger side cylinder head on a BFM engine) this summer so any information would help. Right now my biggest concern is getting access to the three nuts that connect the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter. MP4.2+6.0, I see that you were able to do it on a C5 without removing the thermostat housing so it appears that pulling straight up is the way to go. I lowered the front of the subframe in order to gain better access to the oil cooler a couple years back, do you think that's necessary to remove the exhaust? Thanks in advance.
I think I found someone who was able to do it judging by the pics but I'm not sure how they managed to do it:
I am looking to do the same job (replace passenger side cylinder head on a BFM engine) this summer so any information would help. Right now my biggest concern is getting access to the three nuts that connect the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter. MP4.2+6.0, I see that you were able to do it on a C5 without removing the thermostat housing so it appears that pulling straight up is the way to go. I lowered the front of the subframe in order to gain better access to the oil cooler a couple years back, do you think that's necessary to remove the exhaust? Thanks in advance.
I think I found someone who was able to do it judging by the pics but I'm not sure how they managed to do it:
I pulled the passenger side (cylinders 1-4) cylinder head off the BFM engine today so it is possible. If I have time, I can do a quick write up of how I did it but it's essentially the timing belt job plus removing the intake manifold along with the fuel rail, then removing the EGR valve, coolant pipe, and catalytic converter from the cylinder head. Fortunately, I did not need to go underneath the car aside from placing it on jack stands nor did I have to move the subframe but there was very limited space in the back for removing the three catalytic converter nuts from the exhaust manifold. Move the coolant pipes between the alternator and the oil cooler out of the way and the cylinder head just pulls straight up and out. The intake camshaft was a few teeth in advance which caused valve interference hence the imprints on the pistons.
03-02-2019, 02:40 PM
Can a 4.2L cylinder head be pulled w/o pulling the motor?
