halik

Just knocked the front left mine out this weekend, here's a list of things that will make this a 45min job:

TRW tie rod, part no W01331795388TRW:


37mm crow's foot wrench to bread the inner tie rod lose off the rack:


Assorted crow's feet to loosen up the outer tie rod nut and get the inner off it (need 22 and 23mm iirc):


Replacement 58-75m clamp for the boot on the rack:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1892459/


Replacement 20-32mm clamp for the boot on the inner:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2939/


Pretty simple to do with the above tools, essentially just pull the oem clamp off the boot on the rack (screwdriver and lots of swearing), pull the boot back towards you and then use the 37mm crows foot to break the inner tie rod nut lose. Remove the outer tie rod off the hub and then just unscrew the inner off the rack. Measure the distance on the outer (so you don't throw off your alignment), replace the inner and put it back in.

The 58-75mm hose clamp makes it a lot easier to put the boot back on, there's literally zero space for hose clamps. I ended up using an 8mm wrench to turn the clamp screw about 45 degrees at a time.

Edit: I should add that i used liberal amounts of blue threadlock on anything threaded on the inner.

dripppps

doing mine next week!!!

aTOMic

THIS is a useful post. I'm doing my outers just 'cause I have them disconnected while I do everything else that's replaceable; have a feeling I might need to bookmark this.

I've never "tagged" a post but I might try this one. Needs to be at the top of search for inner tie rod ends ( inner TRE)


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Panelhead

Tom,
What are you replacing in the front end?
I had read the front upper control arm bushings and the lower are the same. I dropped the belly pan last weekend and looked them over. The lower look larger. But never hear of the lowers failing. Same with the rears. My sway bar bushings look perfect front and rear.
I am getting some use out of the Rhino ramps. With a sloping drive it is easy to get it level.

dripppps

Some questions:
1) Did you adjust the steering rack valve to give some stiffness back to your handling? I read that there is a nut which is reachable after the inner/outer tie rod has been pulled. I plan to play with that a little before putting the new parts back on.

2) How long of an extension did you use for the crows foot? Will a breaker bar be sufficient or am i going to need more leverage?

3) I like that you went with normal hose clamps. I have heard the normal CV compression clamp is a pain in the butt. I ordered a few of them and was going to try it, but ill get these as a backup.

4) did you put the whole car on jack stands or just jack up one side? If you put the whole front end up, can you describe a bit of where you hdad your jack points for the safest lift? Did you jack one side, put the jack stand, then jack the other, and put another jack stand? I have never had to lift both wheels off the ground and am a bit anxious.

aTOMic

Ok I exaggerated a little, I'm not doing the wheel bearings. TRE cause I can see rust-dust coming from within the boot; UCAs since the bushings have virtually disintegrated and I want new ball joints; LCAs may not need replacing but I am being cautious... the sway bar links are cheap and can cause clunking (which I have an abundance of). Brake rotors have such a lip where they're worn it's amazing, so new rotors&pads of course and I had one torn CV joint boot on each axle so for about the same price as the parts I bought two new axles (with joints) from Raxles. Plus the CV joint boots are a PIA on these cars.
I think that covers it.

You should get the factory jack out and see where it goes; I jack mine up with my big floor jack at the jack points right on the frame as shown in Bentley, then temporarily and carefully use the factory jack to hold it while I replace the big jack with the jackstands.

I'm thinking of measuring the radius of the factory jack's socket in the car's body and making one out of wood; then I could just jack it up at the easier-to-access factory points and skip a step. I suppose the area around the factory jack receptacle could support the car without the round thing but I'd rather not take the chance.
Also I recommend chocking the wheels securely; I use a dead-blow hammer to get the 2X4 pieces under the tire somewhat.
Wait til you need all FOUR wheels off the ground!
-Tom

MP4.2+6.0

1. Yes, I adjusted the rack. Yes it is accessible. Can only turn an open end wrench like 1/10 turn at a time, but do-able. Didn't take much to firm it up--actually had to back it off when I got it too tight at first.

2. Std. breaker bar was fine on mine, though as a CA (non snow belt) car, it might not have been as hard as some.

3. Yes compression clamps a pain. Do-able w/ effort. May take an extra one before you get the crimping acceptable.

4. I just did one side at a time. The one part that doesn't work well for is the rack tensioning (question 1). You really need the rack free to move on both wheels to feel when the steering is either still loose or starting to bind as you turn the nut. As a possible work around, with a floor jack and the car on an uphill slope (ALWAYS w/ a block behind the diagonally opposite rear tire) like my driveway has, I find I can get both front wheels off the ground if I jack it up aggressively with the floor jack. Either that, or I would pull the belly pan and look for places to place jack stands.

mishar

Check the sway bar itself. Bushings connecting it to the chassis should be fused to the sway bar. If not it can create noise.

aTOMic

Yes, I have heard this. Mine are not fused and a new sway bar may be in my future. I just cannot believe that the bar's flex is supposed to be limited by the rubber bushings (as it would be if the rubber was attached). I might start a thread (at least try to search) regarding this question. I also need to decide whether to use some polyurethane glue to reattach the bushings. Just as an experiment.

My other big question is why not remanufacture this part as well as the control arms? In my career in industrial supply I've learned a lot about rubber and it would seem to be an easy job to replace the old rubber with new. Ball joints, I dunno.
I know aluminum is infinitely recyclable but c'mon, there's a business opportunity there one would think SOMEone would exploit!

The bar connects one side to the other, no? Otherwise why not have a short one on each end?

aTOMic

How much play is acceptable on the inner TRE?
I have it all apart and can't find the criteria for replacing it.
What's the test?
Thank you guys