D3 steering wheel replacement (with D4 model)
11-19-2017, 03:04 AM
#1
D3 steering wheel replacement (with D4 model)
Hi everybody,
I want to replace the steering wheel on my D3 with a D4 model - that's because I need to find a heated steering wheel which, for D3, is something that's very hard to find, and those on the market are not in so good condition. I mean, the used ones. Yes, I can buy a new one, but I can't find one to match the original color and the dealer's prices are very expensive, not to mention they don't manufacture (and thus they don't sell) anymore many of D3 parts.
Moreover, the D4 steering wheels are nicer than the D3 ones and surprisingly, they are cheaper.
I did some research and I solved the part with linking multifunction keys. I am just worrying about the airbag: will it be compatible? I know D3 has two-stage airbags, which have two 2-pin connectors and one 12-pin connector (two rows of 6-pins each). D4 seems to have similar connectors. However, I am not sure it will work as it should.
Any thoughts?
I want to replace the steering wheel on my D3 with a D4 model - that's because I need to find a heated steering wheel which, for D3, is something that's very hard to find, and those on the market are not in so good condition. I mean, the used ones. Yes, I can buy a new one, but I can't find one to match the original color and the dealer's prices are very expensive, not to mention they don't manufacture (and thus they don't sell) anymore many of D3 parts.
Moreover, the D4 steering wheels are nicer than the D3 ones and surprisingly, they are cheaper.
I did some research and I solved the part with linking multifunction keys. I am just worrying about the airbag: will it be compatible? I know D3 has two-stage airbags, which have two 2-pin connectors and one 12-pin connector (two rows of 6-pins each). D4 seems to have similar connectors. However, I am not sure it will work as it should.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by silkworm; 11-19-2017 at 03:08 AM. Reason: correcting some mistakes
11-25-2017, 08:11 AM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
I don't think anyone has ever done this, so it would be a pioneering effort. Given it's a safety concern with the airbag, I suspect no one is sure enough about their thoughts to chip in about it.
11-26-2017, 02:24 AM
#4
No, as you can see, I did not receive any answer yet - and yes, it will be a pioneering effort.
Nevertheless, I attempted this, and I partially succeeded. So far, the steering wheel is mounted, and airbag seems to be working. However, contrary to my expectations, the multifunction keys don't work and making them work will be very tricky (but I'm working on it and I hope I will have a solution in about a week or two).
The reason I was pretty sure that the multifunction keys will work right from the start is because I thought that the actual keys will send the signal by wire to the controller located in the steering column (each key with its own wire and one wire for ground). But in fact, the controller for the keys is actually embedded within the right side of the steering wheel (underneath the keys themselves, on the same PCB) and it sends the information digitally to the main steering wheel controller (except for illumination which seems to be analogic for D3 and digital for D4).
Unfortunately, D3 MSFW has 6 wires (two for tiptronic, two for keys, one for illumination and one for ground) and D4 MSFW has only 3 wires (one is for ground
), so as you can see, there will hardly be any compatibility.
Fitting the steering well wasn't quite plug and play. While the steering wheel fitted nicely into the axis, I couldn't slide it all the way down (a few millimeters are outside the axis), but that won't be a concern, because the steering wheel is well fitted and the bolt above secured it properly.
I didn't have the time to figure it out yet why this happens, as the fitting part seems identical on both steering wheels, but eventually I will figure it out and make the necessary adjustments.
Secondly, regarding the connectors (yellow, 12-pin) that will go into the cancelling ring (slip ring), even though they look the same and have the same pinout (except for the missing wires mentioned above), they have different keys and thus D4 connector won't fit in D3 slip ring (see the pictures below).
What I did was this: I used the wiring harness from D4 steering Wheel, but swapped the yellow, 12-pin connectors, keeping the pin layout. I attached some pictures with the two connectors. The pins are not hard to remove. First, you have to remove a plastic cover located on the opposite side of the pin holes (use a tweezer to unlock it on the corners). Second, you have to unlock the pins by removing a plastic magenta core (you may do that by pushing the core from a side, using a tweezer, until it comes out on the other side. You can do this one-way only, so if it doesn't work, try pushing it from the other side). And third, if you don't have any instrument for pin removal, you may insert a pin or a needle into the small rectangle opening next to each pin (to press the pin key and actually unlock it), and then pull it with your hand or maybe with a tweezer (although I don't recommend using a tweezer for this because you can damage wire insulation). You should fix the connector somehow to keep it steady, otherwise you may need three hands
.
About the heating part, I don't know how to set it up because my D3's factory-fitted steering wheel wasn't heated, and as far as I can tell, D4's heating has to be enabled from one of its buttons, while D3's heating will be enabled from the driver’s seat heating button on the HVAC console.
But if your D3 didn't have heated steering wheel for the factory as well, then the first step is to replace the 'electronic module for steering column combination switch' - I don't know if it's called J453 or J527, but its P/N is 4E0 953 549 and you will need the 'B' version (4E0 953 549 B). I already ordered that module at the dealer, it costs about $350 here on my side of the world. If you get lucky, you can get one from a wrecking yard.
About the tiptronic part... well, I still have to figure that one out, because my original MFSW also didn't have tiptronic keys (and I don't like them anyway).
Below are some pictures with the two connectors and with the D4 wheel fitted. The first picture was before I cleared out the airbag error with VCDS.
I was concerned when I fitted the airbag (even though electronic schematics and connectors seems to be the same). I crossed fingers when I connected back the battery, because there was a chance that the airbag will blow up. But it didn't, and it seems that the airbag controller likes it.
I am driving with the D4 steering wheel fitted for several days now. So far, no problems, other than non-working multi-function keys. And heating. And tiptronic keys
. There is still some work to do.
I attached some pictures with the steering wheel attached. Don't look at my console or at my pillars :P. My car was torn apart, as I recently attempted an unsuccessful keyless-go retrofit (and I mean unsuccessful because I couldn't go past the immobilizer part - can't recode it because it's the non-kessy version, can't order a new, virgin one, because the dealer can't order the kessy version to this car, and can't pair an used one - but that's another story and another problem that I will, eventually, figure it out).
Nevertheless, I attempted this, and I partially succeeded. So far, the steering wheel is mounted, and airbag seems to be working. However, contrary to my expectations, the multifunction keys don't work and making them work will be very tricky (but I'm working on it and I hope I will have a solution in about a week or two).
The reason I was pretty sure that the multifunction keys will work right from the start is because I thought that the actual keys will send the signal by wire to the controller located in the steering column (each key with its own wire and one wire for ground). But in fact, the controller for the keys is actually embedded within the right side of the steering wheel (underneath the keys themselves, on the same PCB) and it sends the information digitally to the main steering wheel controller (except for illumination which seems to be analogic for D3 and digital for D4).
Unfortunately, D3 MSFW has 6 wires (two for tiptronic, two for keys, one for illumination and one for ground) and D4 MSFW has only 3 wires (one is for ground
), so as you can see, there will hardly be any compatibility.Fitting the steering well wasn't quite plug and play. While the steering wheel fitted nicely into the axis, I couldn't slide it all the way down (a few millimeters are outside the axis), but that won't be a concern, because the steering wheel is well fitted and the bolt above secured it properly.
I didn't have the time to figure it out yet why this happens, as the fitting part seems identical on both steering wheels, but eventually I will figure it out and make the necessary adjustments.
Secondly, regarding the connectors (yellow, 12-pin) that will go into the cancelling ring (slip ring), even though they look the same and have the same pinout (except for the missing wires mentioned above), they have different keys and thus D4 connector won't fit in D3 slip ring (see the pictures below).
What I did was this: I used the wiring harness from D4 steering Wheel, but swapped the yellow, 12-pin connectors, keeping the pin layout. I attached some pictures with the two connectors. The pins are not hard to remove. First, you have to remove a plastic cover located on the opposite side of the pin holes (use a tweezer to unlock it on the corners). Second, you have to unlock the pins by removing a plastic magenta core (you may do that by pushing the core from a side, using a tweezer, until it comes out on the other side. You can do this one-way only, so if it doesn't work, try pushing it from the other side). And third, if you don't have any instrument for pin removal, you may insert a pin or a needle into the small rectangle opening next to each pin (to press the pin key and actually unlock it), and then pull it with your hand or maybe with a tweezer (although I don't recommend using a tweezer for this because you can damage wire insulation). You should fix the connector somehow to keep it steady, otherwise you may need three hands
.About the heating part, I don't know how to set it up because my D3's factory-fitted steering wheel wasn't heated, and as far as I can tell, D4's heating has to be enabled from one of its buttons, while D3's heating will be enabled from the driver’s seat heating button on the HVAC console.
But if your D3 didn't have heated steering wheel for the factory as well, then the first step is to replace the 'electronic module for steering column combination switch' - I don't know if it's called J453 or J527, but its P/N is 4E0 953 549 and you will need the 'B' version (4E0 953 549 B). I already ordered that module at the dealer, it costs about $350 here on my side of the world. If you get lucky, you can get one from a wrecking yard.
About the tiptronic part... well, I still have to figure that one out, because my original MFSW also didn't have tiptronic keys (and I don't like them anyway).
Below are some pictures with the two connectors and with the D4 wheel fitted. The first picture was before I cleared out the airbag error with VCDS.
I was concerned when I fitted the airbag (even though electronic schematics and connectors seems to be the same). I crossed fingers when I connected back the battery, because there was a chance that the airbag will blow up. But it didn't, and it seems that the airbag controller likes it.
I am driving with the D4 steering wheel fitted for several days now. So far, no problems, other than non-working multi-function keys. And heating. And tiptronic keys
. There is still some work to do.I attached some pictures with the steering wheel attached. Don't look at my console or at my pillars :P. My car was torn apart, as I recently attempted an unsuccessful keyless-go retrofit (and I mean unsuccessful because I couldn't go past the immobilizer part - can't recode it because it's the non-kessy version, can't order a new, virgin one, because the dealer can't order the kessy version to this car, and can't pair an used one - but that's another story and another problem that I will, eventually, figure it out).
11-26-2017, 04:23 PM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
No, as you can see, I did not receive any answer yet - and yes, it will be a pioneering effort.
Nevertheless, I attempted this, and I partially succeeded. So far, the steering wheel is mounted, and airbag seems to be working. However, contrary to my expectations, the multifunction keys don't work and making them work will be very tricky (but I'm working on it and I hope I will have a solution in about a week or two).
The reason I was pretty sure that the multifunction keys will work right from the start is because I thought that the actual keys will send the signal by wire to the controller located in the steering column (each key with its own wire and one wire for ground). But in fact, the controller for the keys is actually embedded within the right side of the steering wheel (underneath the keys themselves, on the same PCB) and it sends the information digitally to the main steering wheel controller (except for illumination which seems to be analogic for D3 and digital for D4).
Unfortunately, D3 MSFW has 6 wires (two for tiptronic, two for keys, one for illumination and one for ground) and D4 MSFW has only 3 wires (one is for ground), so as you can see, there will hardly be any compatibility.
Fitting the steering well wasn't quite plug and play. While the steering wheel fitted nicely into the axis, I couldn't slide it all the way down (a few millimeters are outside the axis), but that won't be a concern, because the steering wheel is well fitted and the bolt above secured it properly.
I didn't have the time to figure it out yet why this happens, as the fitting part seems identical on both steering wheels, but eventually I will figure it out and make the necessary adjustments.
Secondly, regarding the connectors (yellow, 12-pin) that will go into the cancelling ring (slip ring), even though they look the same and have the same pinout (except for the missing wires mentioned above), they have different keys and thus D4 connector won't fit in D3 slip ring (see the pictures below).
What I did was this: I used the wiring harness from D4 steering Wheel, but swapped the yellow, 12-pin connectors, keeping the pin layout. I attached some pictures with the two connectors. The pins are not hard to remove. First, you have to remove a plastic cover located on the opposite side of the pin holes (use a tweezer to unlock it on the corners). Second, you have to unlock the pins by removing a plastic magenta core (you may do that by pushing the core from a side, using a tweezer, until it comes out on the other side. You can do this one-way only, so if it doesn't work, try pushing it from the other side). And third, if you don't have any instrument for pin removal, you may insert a pin or a needle into the small rectangle opening next to each pin (to press the pin key and actually unlock it), and then pull it with your hand or maybe with a tweezer (although I don't recommend using a tweezer for this because you can damage wire insulation). You should fix the connector somehow to keep it steady, otherwise you may need three hands.
About the heating part, I don't know how to set it up because my D3's factory-fitted steering wheel wasn't heated, and as far as I can tell, D4's heating has to be enabled from one of its buttons, while D3's heating will be enabled from the driver’s seat heating button on the HVAC console.
But if your D3 didn't have heated steering wheel for the factory as well, then the first step is to replace the 'electronic module for steering column combination switch' - I don't know if it's called J453 or J527, but its P/N is 4E0 953 549 and you will need the 'B' version (4E0 953 549 B). I already ordered that module at the dealer, it costs about $350 here on my side of the world. If you get lucky, you can get one from a wrecking yard.
About the tiptronic part... well, I still have to figure that one out, because my original MFSW also didn't have tiptronic keys (and I don't like them anyway).
Below are some pictures with the two connectors and with the D4 wheel fitted. The first picture was before I cleared out the airbag error with VCDS.
I was concerned when I fitted the airbag (even though electronic schematics and connectors seems to be the same). I crossed fingers when I connected back the battery, because there was a chance that the airbag will blow up. But it didn't, and it seems that the airbag controller likes it.
I am driving with the D4 steering wheel fitted for several days now. So far, no problems, other than non-working multi-function keys. And heating. And tiptronic keys. There is still some work to do.
I attached some pictures with the steering wheel attached. Don't look at my console or at my pillars :P. My car was torn apart, as I recently attempted an unsuccessful keyless-go retrofit (and I mean unsuccessful because I couldn't go past the immobilizer part - can't recode it because it's the non-kessy version, can't order a new, virgin one, because the dealer can't order the kessy version to this car, and can't pair an used one - but that's another story and another problem that I will, eventually, figure it out).
Nevertheless, I attempted this, and I partially succeeded. So far, the steering wheel is mounted, and airbag seems to be working. However, contrary to my expectations, the multifunction keys don't work and making them work will be very tricky (but I'm working on it and I hope I will have a solution in about a week or two).
The reason I was pretty sure that the multifunction keys will work right from the start is because I thought that the actual keys will send the signal by wire to the controller located in the steering column (each key with its own wire and one wire for ground). But in fact, the controller for the keys is actually embedded within the right side of the steering wheel (underneath the keys themselves, on the same PCB) and it sends the information digitally to the main steering wheel controller (except for illumination which seems to be analogic for D3 and digital for D4).
Unfortunately, D3 MSFW has 6 wires (two for tiptronic, two for keys, one for illumination and one for ground) and D4 MSFW has only 3 wires (one is for ground
), so as you can see, there will hardly be any compatibility.Fitting the steering well wasn't quite plug and play. While the steering wheel fitted nicely into the axis, I couldn't slide it all the way down (a few millimeters are outside the axis), but that won't be a concern, because the steering wheel is well fitted and the bolt above secured it properly.
I didn't have the time to figure it out yet why this happens, as the fitting part seems identical on both steering wheels, but eventually I will figure it out and make the necessary adjustments.
Secondly, regarding the connectors (yellow, 12-pin) that will go into the cancelling ring (slip ring), even though they look the same and have the same pinout (except for the missing wires mentioned above), they have different keys and thus D4 connector won't fit in D3 slip ring (see the pictures below).
What I did was this: I used the wiring harness from D4 steering Wheel, but swapped the yellow, 12-pin connectors, keeping the pin layout. I attached some pictures with the two connectors. The pins are not hard to remove. First, you have to remove a plastic cover located on the opposite side of the pin holes (use a tweezer to unlock it on the corners). Second, you have to unlock the pins by removing a plastic magenta core (you may do that by pushing the core from a side, using a tweezer, until it comes out on the other side. You can do this one-way only, so if it doesn't work, try pushing it from the other side). And third, if you don't have any instrument for pin removal, you may insert a pin or a needle into the small rectangle opening next to each pin (to press the pin key and actually unlock it), and then pull it with your hand or maybe with a tweezer (although I don't recommend using a tweezer for this because you can damage wire insulation). You should fix the connector somehow to keep it steady, otherwise you may need three hands
.About the heating part, I don't know how to set it up because my D3's factory-fitted steering wheel wasn't heated, and as far as I can tell, D4's heating has to be enabled from one of its buttons, while D3's heating will be enabled from the driver’s seat heating button on the HVAC console.
But if your D3 didn't have heated steering wheel for the factory as well, then the first step is to replace the 'electronic module for steering column combination switch' - I don't know if it's called J453 or J527, but its P/N is 4E0 953 549 and you will need the 'B' version (4E0 953 549 B). I already ordered that module at the dealer, it costs about $350 here on my side of the world. If you get lucky, you can get one from a wrecking yard.
About the tiptronic part... well, I still have to figure that one out, because my original MFSW also didn't have tiptronic keys (and I don't like them anyway).
Below are some pictures with the two connectors and with the D4 wheel fitted. The first picture was before I cleared out the airbag error with VCDS.
I was concerned when I fitted the airbag (even though electronic schematics and connectors seems to be the same). I crossed fingers when I connected back the battery, because there was a chance that the airbag will blow up. But it didn't, and it seems that the airbag controller likes it.
I am driving with the D4 steering wheel fitted for several days now. So far, no problems, other than non-working multi-function keys. And heating. And tiptronic keys
. There is still some work to do.I attached some pictures with the steering wheel attached. Don't look at my console or at my pillars :P. My car was torn apart, as I recently attempted an unsuccessful keyless-go retrofit (and I mean unsuccessful because I couldn't go past the immobilizer part - can't recode it because it's the non-kessy version, can't order a new, virgin one, because the dealer can't order the kessy version to this car, and can't pair an used one - but that's another story and another problem that I will, eventually, figure it out).
12-18-2017, 01:28 PM
#7
You are probably referring to the keyless go part of my post, right? If so, I will do that 'by the book', as it would have been installed right from the factory. If I won't succeed, then I might as well leave it alone.
I have been asked that before I am located in Romania.
I have been asked that before
I am located in Romania.
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12-18-2017, 01:44 PM
#8
I have been doing some research and I found that the pin schematic on the yellow D3 'airbag' connector is not correct. Or at least, that may have been an early version, because I analyzed the pinout from a 2004 steering wheel and although there are 6 wires and 6 pins, I saw on the PCB that only 3 of them are connected, so the two yellow 'airbag' connectors are now matching the pin layout (however, as I stated in a previous post, the D4 multifunction keys are not compatible with their D3 counterparts).
Also, it seems that for newer D3s, the white 6-pin connector was replaced at sime point with the black 4-pin connector found on D4s.
So below are the new diagrams.
Also, it seems that for newer D3s, the white 6-pin connector was replaced at sime point with the black 4-pin connector found on D4s.
So below are the new diagrams.
Last edited by silkworm; 12-18-2017 at 01:53 PM.
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