ltooz_a6_a8_q7

My car just turned 105k. I have to change the oil because it's 16k miles since the last one and it's a quart low on the stick. I bought the NGK Iridium spark plugs a year ago, but the spark plugs still looked good then. The spark plugs were replaced at 55k miles service. Go check all your coils, make sure the heights are the same, if some are sitting higher than others, the rubber insert were messed up.
So my 105k miles consists of:

- Oil change.
- Replace spark plugs - the last service guy screwed up the 2 rear spark plugs rubber inserts, the spark plugs were NOT making good contact with the coils? That's the reason why I do the work myself. The 55k miles were serviced at an Audi dealer according to the record.
- The iridium spark plugs are amazing, the idle is better and acceleration is quick and smooth.
- Inspect all fluids and top up: Brake, Coolant, Power Steering, Battery, Vacuum hoses, Timing belt, etc...


I don't know why people are so excited to bring their perfect working car to get services, the service people seem to screw up the car every chance they get.
Anyhow, it's my 105k service and it's the way I did mine.

Cheers,

Louis

Mister Bally

I'd like to add that there is some old oil trapped in the oil filter housing. As a minimum, it should be sucked out with the oil extractor vacuum contraption. The proper way, per the service manuals, is to remove the belly pan and remove the small drain plug at the bottom of the oil filter housing. A new seal is provided with genuine Mann oil filters as well as the Mann filters boxed in a VW/Audi package from dealers. You also get a new oil filter cap O-Ring with the genuine filter so you should replace it. No use in chancing it cracking while in service and causing a leak. Just because the old one looks good, does not mean it is. Reusing it puts it through another set of rotations under compression that could deform or even break it. Your video should show how you inspected it with calibrated eyeballs etc.

Since doing it with the belly pan off allows access to the oil drainplug, might as well drain the oil that way. Then you get every drop out without the need to lift the back end of the car up or the expense of a non-factory approved method of draining out the old oil. An you're not guessing if you got it all out or not.

As for the spark plug video; I used to tug and pull and sometimes pry out stubborn coil packs. The proper coil pack removal tool really makes it simple. I bought one when I was buying all of the timing belt tools from Baum Tools. I currently have two vehicles and my son has a third where this tool comes in so handy.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

but I doubt the shops would wait that long to get all the oil drained out, and I think if the cap is not opened, there won't be enough air pressure to push all the oil out.
The Napa does have the oil ring with the filter cap, but I didn't see the need to replace it. I did it on the last video.
The coil packs are only hard to get out because the rubber inserts were pushed and prevent the socket to come down all the way. I only replace spark plugs may be once every 3-4 years or so, I know it's good to have the tools.
The scary thing is every time I touched something, someone screwed up something due to being lazy and careless. This car was serviced religiously at dealer by the first owner which means all screw ups were at the dealers and people are so eager to take the cars to get services.
Your car lasts over 200k miles because you know how to use and maintain it. Like I believe, Audi are extremely well built, it's just the misinformed owners and bad mechanics that caused all these failures and costly to own.

My bought new 08 Q7, 43k miles, never had to spend a dime on broken things. So many horror stories in the forum. Still original brakes, everything, like new. Haven't taken it back to the dealer since the 5 years 60k miles service contract was over.

It's not Audi cars, it's the owners and dealers or shops.

If I'm going to keep this car, I may get as many miles as you do, but I don't think I want to keep this car that long. Yes, the last one may be a D4 with everything on it. Almost pulled the trigger on a TDI, but the interior color was wrong and not many exist in CA. It's OK, as long as this car drives like this, never in a hurry to get into something new.

Cheers,

Louis

Mister Bally

I always remove the drain plug, the slide out and remove the filler cap & dipstick. On my A8, it seems drained in under 5 minutes. My Beetle and son's TT takes 20 minutes before the flow is a few drops a minute. The drain plug on the A8 is huge.

nathanwind

Louis:

You mentioned you inspected the timing belt...just curious, have you changed it yet? If you recall we've got similar spec cars (2006), and I'm at 87k and was likely going to wait into 90-100k to change my belt. But curious what your approach is as well.

Also, how did you "inspect" it...did you pull the cover?

Pothole5000

Its at the end of the second video.

He pulled both covers and looked at the belt.

dvs_dave

A modern EPDM belt will look like new after years of service as they don't crack and perish like neoprene ones used to. See here on a guide by Gates Corp. on how to diagnose wear on an EPDM belt:
EPDM Belt Wear Diagnosis

Still completely confident that it's good for thousands of miles more, along with the rolling stock/accessories?

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

It's actually night and day after driving it to work today. The gas mileage will definitely go up, will fill it up and check. The acceleration was slower before, I read about the 4 prong spark plugs that are actually NOT good. The engine is so smooth and responsive now. It could be because of the 2 inside coil packs that sit up high, not fully snapped on the spark plugs tips. Or the 50k miles spark plugs didn't do it well although they look perfectly fine.

Cheers,

Louis

allenst

pre-gapped and is the gap suitable for my 2004 A8L ?

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Check the spark plugs manufacture for your engine.