Hood latch cable snap, how to route to footwell?
02-28-2014, 08:19 PM
#1
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Hood latch cable snap, how to route to footwell?
Hi, My hood latch cable snapped when my foot caught the lever when I got out of the car. Luckily the hood opened. Here is a picture of where the break was inside of the little box above the left headlight. I'll get a new cable from the dealer.
Any advice, pictures, on how I can reroute a new cable to the lever in the footwell. I can see where it enters the firewall, upper drivers side behinds the wiper motor. Beyond that does anyone have any idea how it routes to the footwell and what I will have to remove in order to see it (grab it). Thanks!!
Any advice, pictures, on how I can reroute a new cable to the lever in the footwell. I can see where it enters the firewall, upper drivers side behinds the wiper motor. Beyond that does anyone have any idea how it routes to the footwell and what I will have to remove in order to see it (grab it). Thanks!!
Last edited by Sci-fi_Wasabi; 02-28-2014 at 09:37 PM. Reason: additional info
03-01-2014, 03:00 PM
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I have the front drivers fender off of my 04 A8L and can send some pictures of its routing. If you want to do it right, it may be easiest to just pull the fender but I am not sure. Ill try to get some pictures for you.
03-02-2014, 04:03 PM
#3
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DIY for Hood Latch cable relplacement
DIY for Hood latch cable replacement:
Other threads will show you how to get the hood open. This is how to put a new cable in once its open. Thanks to Mister Bally for written instructions on how to do this.
The part number is 4E0823543a for the cable that goes from the footwell to the 2 shorter cables going to the 2 latches (I don't think the other 2 snap much). One Audi stealership wanted $100 , another $60, but it can be found online on ebay for $45 +S/H. I needed it now, so i paid the premium for instant gratification.
(PIC 1)All you need is a T25 torx/star bit, 10mm socket, a trim tool (baby's spoon work here), a strong string to use as a fish line (I used speaker wire), and a small flash light for the tight spaces you will work in. Took me about 5 hrs, taking my time.
(PIC 2)Before you start, place your wipers in the full up position, so the wiper motor arm does not get in your way (I chose to leave the wiper motor in, just a bit tighter work area to get the rubber grommet in the firewall)
(PIC 3)Remove the rubber gasket just 1/2 way down the back of the engine bay.
(PIC 4)Pull out the plastic cover by pulling forward and bending out the 2 tabs shown by the arrows.
(PIC 5)Remember the path the wire is taking, (take a picture) if you don't recreate it with the new wire, things won't work right
[I can only post 5 pics a t a time so I'll do this thread in parts]
Other threads will show you how to get the hood open. This is how to put a new cable in once its open. Thanks to Mister Bally for written instructions on how to do this.
The part number is 4E0823543a for the cable that goes from the footwell to the 2 shorter cables going to the 2 latches (I don't think the other 2 snap much). One Audi stealership wanted $100 , another $60, but it can be found online on ebay for $45 +S/H. I needed it now, so i paid the premium for instant gratification.
(PIC 1)All you need is a T25 torx/star bit, 10mm socket, a trim tool (baby's spoon work here), a strong string to use as a fish line (I used speaker wire), and a small flash light for the tight spaces you will work in. Took me about 5 hrs, taking my time.
(PIC 2)Before you start, place your wipers in the full up position, so the wiper motor arm does not get in your way (I chose to leave the wiper motor in, just a bit tighter work area to get the rubber grommet in the firewall)
(PIC 3)Remove the rubber gasket just 1/2 way down the back of the engine bay.
(PIC 4)Pull out the plastic cover by pulling forward and bending out the 2 tabs shown by the arrows.
(PIC 5)Remember the path the wire is taking, (take a picture) if you don't recreate it with the new wire, things won't work right
[I can only post 5 pics a t a time so I'll do this thread in parts]
Last edited by Sci-fi_Wasabi; 03-02-2014 at 05:53 PM.
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tkm3 (11-04-2021)
03-02-2014, 05:08 PM
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Part 2:
Nice link to a diagram for removal of the knee board.
http://www.justanswer.com/audi/6ci54...ake-light.html
(PIC 6)Open the coin tray and push the little faceplate to the LEFT, the 2 tabs will snap out, then pull forward (I always break something when dealing with trim, broke one of the nubs, 1/2 hr to deal with that and superglue)
(PIC 7)Remove the Left silver trim, it is fastened at just 2 points.
(PIC 8)Remove the Right silver trim, I started at the steering wheel and worked my way 2/3 of the way outwards, that was enough to expose the screw to take out.
(PiC 9)Take out the screw just to the right of the steering wheel
(PIC 10)Take the 2 screws marked out from the L. Fuse box area with the T25 torx
Nice link to a diagram for removal of the knee board.
http://www.justanswer.com/audi/6ci54...ake-light.html
(PIC 6)Open the coin tray and push the little faceplate to the LEFT, the 2 tabs will snap out, then pull forward (I always break something when dealing with trim, broke one of the nubs, 1/2 hr to deal with that and superglue)
(PIC 7)Remove the Left silver trim, it is fastened at just 2 points.
(PIC 8)Remove the Right silver trim, I started at the steering wheel and worked my way 2/3 of the way outwards, that was enough to expose the screw to take out.
(PiC 9)Take out the screw just to the right of the steering wheel
(PIC 10)Take the 2 screws marked out from the L. Fuse box area with the T25 torx
Last edited by Sci-fi_Wasabi; 03-02-2014 at 05:55 PM.
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tkm3 (11-04-2021)
03-02-2014, 05:20 PM
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Part 3
(PIC 11) Remove screw just to the left of the steering wheel.
(PIC 12) Remove last screw just to the lower right of the knee area. ( I don't know who opened this car up last but they jacked up the screws like they were using a phillips on a torx.)
(PIC 13 & 14) Next pull the knee board towards the seat. You need some force to do it as there are strong clips in the areas circled in red.
(PIC 15)Pull out the wire to the headlight switch by pressing a small tab on the connector. (I did not want to mess with the wires to the airbag... you still have plenty of room to work )
(PIC 11) Remove screw just to the left of the steering wheel.
(PIC 12) Remove last screw just to the lower right of the knee area. ( I don't know who opened this car up last but they jacked up the screws like they were using a phillips on a torx.)
(PIC 13 & 14) Next pull the knee board towards the seat. You need some force to do it as there are strong clips in the areas circled in red.
(PIC 15)Pull out the wire to the headlight switch by pressing a small tab on the connector. (I did not want to mess with the wires to the airbag... you still have plenty of room to work )
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tkm3 (11-04-2021)
03-02-2014, 05:30 PM
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Part 4
(PIC 16) There is the wire dangling around by the lever.
(PIC 17) You will remove the wire by wiggling the ball out through the marked key hole in the lever
(PIC 18) Notice the end of the tube carrying the wire sits in this plastic channel.... this channel caused the most trouble, note how far in the tube is and how deep it sits, as you want the new tube to sit just as snug , or else it will pop out.
(PIC 19) Tie your fish line to the ball end of the wire
(PIC 20) Go to the engine bay, and stick your hand below the wiper motor and pull out the old rubber grommet.
(PIC 16) There is the wire dangling around by the lever.
(PIC 17) You will remove the wire by wiggling the ball out through the marked key hole in the lever
(PIC 18) Notice the end of the tube carrying the wire sits in this plastic channel.... this channel caused the most trouble, note how far in the tube is and how deep it sits, as you want the new tube to sit just as snug , or else it will pop out.
(PIC 19) Tie your fish line to the ball end of the wire
(PIC 20) Go to the engine bay, and stick your hand below the wiper motor and pull out the old rubber grommet.
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tkm3 (11-04-2021)
03-02-2014, 05:51 PM
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Part 5
(PIC 21) gently wiggle out the wire till you see your fish line come out of the fire wall. You will have to remove a plastic channel with a plastic 10 mm nut and a metal 10 mm nut the wire runs through. Why one is made of plastic, i don't know, but it seems like it will pop off under the tension of the wire. you also need to take out a glued on foam piece it runs under and some more gasketing along the fender.
(PIC 22) Attach your fish wire to the new ball end and pull it through the fire wall. Getting the tube to sit snug in the plastic channel above the pull lever took the most time. Lots of thick wire bundles keep you from getting good access and view. Took me about 1 hour, and I had to get help to pull and push the tube from the fire wall to line it up.
Replace the new rubber grommet into the firewall... you can't really see what you are doing but if you put some silicone grease on it, and blindly wiggle & shimmy it around, it will make its way in easily.
Reroute the wire just as the old one was and secure all the gaskets and fittings. I put grease all over the links and latches. The tubing on the 2 wires going to the latches cracked near the T box, as I subjected them to unusual angles; so i used some hot glue on the cracks so water would not get in. Yours are probably jacked up too if you had to open a stuck hood using Mister Ballys method
DONT SHUT THE HOOD YET!.... test and retest about 30 times to make sure it all works right and that you did not get a wimpy new wire. Than shut the hood and enjoy the $600 or whatever it is you just saved ( I never asked how much the stealership charged for the repair... but nothing is ever cheap)
(PIC 21) gently wiggle out the wire till you see your fish line come out of the fire wall. You will have to remove a plastic channel with a plastic 10 mm nut and a metal 10 mm nut the wire runs through. Why one is made of plastic, i don't know, but it seems like it will pop off under the tension of the wire. you also need to take out a glued on foam piece it runs under and some more gasketing along the fender.
(PIC 22) Attach your fish wire to the new ball end and pull it through the fire wall. Getting the tube to sit snug in the plastic channel above the pull lever took the most time. Lots of thick wire bundles keep you from getting good access and view. Took me about 1 hour, and I had to get help to pull and push the tube from the fire wall to line it up.
Replace the new rubber grommet into the firewall... you can't really see what you are doing but if you put some silicone grease on it, and blindly wiggle & shimmy it around, it will make its way in easily.
Reroute the wire just as the old one was and secure all the gaskets and fittings. I put grease all over the links and latches. The tubing on the 2 wires going to the latches cracked near the T box, as I subjected them to unusual angles; so i used some hot glue on the cracks so water would not get in. Yours are probably jacked up too if you had to open a stuck hood using Mister Ballys method
DONT SHUT THE HOOD YET!.... test and retest about 30 times to make sure it all works right and that you did not get a wimpy new wire. Than shut the hood and enjoy the $600 or whatever it is you just saved ( I never asked how much the stealership charged for the repair... but nothing is ever cheap)
Last edited by Sci-fi_Wasabi; 03-02-2014 at 06:00 PM.
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tkm3 (11-04-2021)
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03-03-2014, 05:39 AM
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I have nothing to add other than a huge thank you for increasing the wealth of knowledge on this board! Any hints on preventative maintenance that might prevent the cable from snapping?
03-03-2014, 10:15 AM
#9
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Not much other than a bit of light grease (Not WD40) at points where the wires slip in an out of their conduit and at points where the wire is pressed into the connectors and at springs of the latches. Hopefully this will create a bit of a barrier between salty air and the wire. Really mine snapped because my foot caught the lever and pulled it hard (plus the fact that is was 7 deg F )... oh yah, maybe let the engine bay warm up before opening if its frigid outside . There were no signs of corrosion after 5 years on my wire. Thanks!
