ltooz_a6_a8_q7

but NOT really fixed it is silly. I'm glad spending the money this time actually fixed the transmission "hooting" problem.

Thanks for confirming this, but until I experienced it myself, I still can't imaging what "hooting" is like.

Louis

Panelhead

I have an extra "smart" and need to get cut and programmed. If the dealer will not charge too much, getting the latest firmware flash would be nice. Sportier shift programming would be welcome.
Sometimes it is slow about downshifting. Wants to high gear roll off instead of slamming down a gear or two.

mishar

Not necessarily. Actually this forum is all about the opposite.

You would probably fix hooting by just flashing it with 6 liters of Lifeguard6 at any shop. That would be ~$200.

mishar

Well, it is a luxury car and they try to save some gas that way. But you have paddles for instant downshifting. It is quite fast.

MP4.2+6.0

The flash/programming is dealer only and is 1-1.5hrs. of shop time. Fluid is 16L per Audi procedure (for probably a 3x change cycle) to get to 90-95%. If you do only one drain w/out pan pull it's about 4-5L, and with a pan and filter pull with some extended drain time, closer to 6.5-7L. New fill is 10L. The delta when you pull the pan is a combo of what is in the bottom pan recess, in the filter (which sits in the lowest recess), and a pretty good amount in the valve body that drains only very slowly--days. BTDT on mine so this is actual D3 experience based.

I think you want at least two drain cycles to get a good percentage out (80%-ish by my calcs. and drain experience if one of the first two includes a pan pull), and when you do the math three is where most of it has been turned over. One would be fine for a periodic maintenance cycle staying w/ the same fluid type, but presumably would go further if trying to address a current tranny issue.Without a pan pull it drags out more per the math.

With mine doing and seeing it personally over the sequential drains, you could see the effect of the incremental drains as the color went from murky grayish brown to the much clearer new fluid color like in the can/bottle. First one didn't do it, second one got a lot more there, and third was pretty close to new fluid color--and thus presumably additive pack, fluid composition, etc. About U.S. $23/L for Lifeguard 6 at a good price, and mid $30's for blue 6+ (now only sold by Audi), or for LG 8 from either ZF or Audi. Thus, $4-500 for fluids and multi drain cycles. Plus the filter, gasket and plug seals--another $100 ish from a ZF place and more like double that if via dealer.

MP4.2+6.0

I need a better description of the downshifting. I think I get the "slow" part--I expect that is just the fuel economy oriented programming unless you mean it as something else. But what do you mean about the slamming? Just an expression for quick shifting, or is it acting up? If so, I have an idea what it is, but it's not just a flash or fluid only fix.

Panelhead

I can live with the sluggish downshifting in D. Shifts faster and harder in Sport.
The previous owner claimed a recent filter and fluid change in my D3. Must have, the shop who did it said the fluid drained looked just like the LifeGuard 6 going in.
And they either did not run it long enough prior to draining, or did let it drain long enough. It only took 5 1/2 liters.
But they charged four hours, so it sat on the lift running a lot. The seven liters was 160.00, the filter and gasket close to 100.00, and 240.00 labor.
I can understand the labor changes. This is a two hour job for draining, dropping the pan, swapping the filter, buttoning back up, and refilling. But if it ties up a lift for four hours running fluid through to heat up and and fill the valve bodies it costs just like wrench time.

Panelhead

. Poor description, I ride around in D. Sometimes it does not drop down a gear or two, when wanted.
The Sport mode does, but I very seldom ride around in Sport mode. Wish there was an easy way to get the D mode more responsive.
I like to think the transmission is shifting faster after fluid and filter change. But this is most likely wishful thinking.
My short wheelbase car feels very sporty. I wanted a LWB model, glad I did not get one. The backseat almost never holds anyone.

MP4.2+6.0

I didn't mention it in my earlier posts, but to your description and labor time, on a W12 or S8, you also have to drop both sides of the exhaust at the down pipe connections, plus remove an exhaust cross brace assembly, a rear subframe reinforcing bar, some heat shielding around the tranny cable shift area, and open a water line temporarily that runs to the front diff. gear oil cooler. All do-able even in a non shop environment, but it adds time. The pan is a really tough fit too to get past the inner down pipes to both sides and still stay behind a protruding metal cooler line to the front, all of which also makes the (paper) pan gasket fitting even more of a pain.

Your shifting performance sounds "normal." On a W12 w/ more torque, the programming is actually both really smooth and quite good. You also get paddles on a W12 or S8 and the shift response is rapid, in case you want to override it at will. As an FYI, if you either were flaring on downshifts from the higher gears (or had serious 1-2 or 2-1 clunking/jolting), that was what I was poking around about that is more than just a fluid or flash tweak.

The fluid price you mention is presumably for a shop with access to the 50L type barrel quantities.

mishar

For that you need Diesel engine (W12 would be a half way solution).

Transmission would shift down right away if you use kick-down, but than she would jump like you are running for your life (actually it's designed for that exactly).