It's my turn... low rider
#191
O-ring diameters
Hi, I'm from Poland and have a leake from big o-ring.
No one will send to me those o-rings so do anyone have diameters of this o-ring that i would be able to buy in my country
No one will send to me those o-rings so do anyone have diameters of this o-ring that i would be able to buy in my country
#192
AudiWorld Member
I have the orings. Looks like shipping to Poland is $24, plus $20 for 4 sets of big and small orings. 44 total. I can double check with the post office. Pm me.
Last edited by Tstealth32; 09-16-2017 at 07:04 AM.
#193
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I'm not sure if the ring will fix the leaks that I've seen so far from people that have leaking struts. I would try to oil the original ring with mobile 1 first, if it still leak, better off spend $200 for a new bag. The shipping cost is too much for a few rings.
Cheers and good luck,
Louis
Cheers and good luck,
Louis
#194
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
How to troubleshoot the Air Suspension Failure...
Everyone who has a problem with a suspension, create a new thread and all the info is scattered all over the forum. I've read the self study guide on the first few posts of this thread. I can summarize what I know about this air suspension system.
- Non-leaked system - the air suspension at the highest - doesn't go down - There are 2 air relief valves - inside the pump and inside the valve block - Someone had this problem and replace the pump, the air released again as normal because the relief valve in the new pump is working.
- Air-Leaked system: As in many people cases - Mine was the right air spring bag strut. This is the summary on how to troubleshoot air suspension leaks. The Green and Yellow suspension warning lights will be on.
1. Make sure the batter is in good condition because the air pump do draw lots of current. Use a charger if necessary running the engine while doing this. Check all the fuses related to the air suspension - The Air pump fuse under the dash can be checked later if the pump is dead.
2. Turn on the engine - set to lift mode - the pump will try to pump to the lift position regardless of the struts are leaking or not.
3. As soon as the pump stops - set to Jack mode - In Jack Mode, the pump and the level sensors will be disabled - So there will not be any pump action.
4. Leave it for a few minutes or hours to see which side is lowered more than others - it's the bad one - Drive it up to the ramps, squirt soap water to confirm the leaks by air bubbling - If it's on a jack, you may not see the air escape like in my case, but still very slow pressure leaked out.
5. If no air leaks were obvious but both of the front or rear or all 4 are down - the next suspect will be the valve block - The valve block behind the driver side wheel well is the air distribution for all 4 struts - this box operates with electrical solenoids - If solenoids are bad, then the air distribution won't be correct. People here found leaks on the rubber seats of the air hoses - by replacing them - it fixed their problems.
6. The Pump seldom burned out due to over heating sensor that allow the Air suspension controller to shut it down to prevent it from happening. The pump will get burned out if the Relay 643 under the dash stuck close and the controller can't turn the pump off.
7. You don't need VCDS to troubleshoot leaks - I used VCDS to scan mine and the data was worthless.
8. If the air suspension leaks, replace the air spring bag if your shock has been good. If you buy rebuilt one, you take your chances on the used shock inside it. Remember, the ride is the condition of the electronic shock, not just the air spring bag.
10. There'll be tons of advice, but should only listen to the ones that actually done the work which actually not many IMO.
Cheers and good luck,
Louis
- Non-leaked system - the air suspension at the highest - doesn't go down - There are 2 air relief valves - inside the pump and inside the valve block - Someone had this problem and replace the pump, the air released again as normal because the relief valve in the new pump is working.
- Air-Leaked system: As in many people cases - Mine was the right air spring bag strut. This is the summary on how to troubleshoot air suspension leaks. The Green and Yellow suspension warning lights will be on.
1. Make sure the batter is in good condition because the air pump do draw lots of current. Use a charger if necessary running the engine while doing this. Check all the fuses related to the air suspension - The Air pump fuse under the dash can be checked later if the pump is dead.
2. Turn on the engine - set to lift mode - the pump will try to pump to the lift position regardless of the struts are leaking or not.
3. As soon as the pump stops - set to Jack mode - In Jack Mode, the pump and the level sensors will be disabled - So there will not be any pump action.
4. Leave it for a few minutes or hours to see which side is lowered more than others - it's the bad one - Drive it up to the ramps, squirt soap water to confirm the leaks by air bubbling - If it's on a jack, you may not see the air escape like in my case, but still very slow pressure leaked out.
5. If no air leaks were obvious but both of the front or rear or all 4 are down - the next suspect will be the valve block - The valve block behind the driver side wheel well is the air distribution for all 4 struts - this box operates with electrical solenoids - If solenoids are bad, then the air distribution won't be correct. People here found leaks on the rubber seats of the air hoses - by replacing them - it fixed their problems.
6. The Pump seldom burned out due to over heating sensor that allow the Air suspension controller to shut it down to prevent it from happening. The pump will get burned out if the Relay 643 under the dash stuck close and the controller can't turn the pump off.
7. You don't need VCDS to troubleshoot leaks - I used VCDS to scan mine and the data was worthless.
8. If the air suspension leaks, replace the air spring bag if your shock has been good. If you buy rebuilt one, you take your chances on the used shock inside it. Remember, the ride is the condition of the electronic shock, not just the air spring bag.
10. There'll be tons of advice, but should only listen to the ones that actually done the work which actually not many IMO.
Cheers and good luck,
Louis
#195
I have been reading the problems about the air suspension system in this forum now is my turn. The four corners does not drop even with the car sitting for a few days but now i can not get the compressor to raise the car to lift mode. The mmi settings start flashing and i can hear the pump struggling. I have replaced the relay under the dash but the pump is still the same. So i can' t use the jack mode techique to test for leaks. Could this be just a bad compressor
#197
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Before you jump the gun and start replacing the pump, I would test the non-return valve by putting a small Schrader valve at the output of the pump to act like a 1 way valve. If it pumps to lift mode then just leave it in place until you buy a new pump or find a replacement valve if they exist.
Cheers,
Louis
Louis
#199
AudiWorld Super User
OEM WABCO is what Audi used when they built your car. It is also what Audi uses for service parts. The entire housing is painted black on the OEM compressors. The genuine WABCO OES compressors (sold aftermarket) have a silver housing instead of black. Basically the same part. If it does not say WABCO, it's a lower quality knock-off.
Last edited by Mister Bally; 10-28-2017 at 07:23 AM.
#200
Thanks. The compressor starts working again so i set the car to lift mode turn on the jack mode measure all four corners . After one hour i did the measurement again and the readings are exactly the same. So there is no leak and could be the compressor faulty. I will try the compressor for a few more days before i go for the oem Wabco