Just completed vag lowering using Der Kimbo's post!
05-15-2014, 03:42 AM
#71
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Hello!
This weekend I'll be trying to lower my d3, however after reading the instructions and all posts it looks like that is very complicated process. Well at least it is very hard to get it right.
I understand all the steps until you have to drive a car 15-20 feet and then do adaptation again, is it because the car will change its height after you have measured it and entered during first adaptation ?
You have to enter height from center of wheel to middle of fender in mm so the questions rises what do you use to make a perfect measurement to get it right?
and once first adaptation if finished and the car is not equal on all sides , there is no way to reset to factory settings ?
I am sorry if some question might be dump, I just purchased vag cable and only learning how to use it properly.
This weekend I'll be trying to lower my d3, however after reading the instructions and all posts it looks like that is very complicated process. Well at least it is very hard to get it right.
I understand all the steps until you have to drive a car 15-20 feet and then do adaptation again, is it because the car will change its height after you have measured it and entered during first adaptation ?
You have to enter height from center of wheel to middle of fender in mm so the questions rises what do you use to make a perfect measurement to get it right?
and once first adaptation if finished and the car is not equal on all sides , there is no way to reset to factory settings ?
I am sorry if some question might be dump, I just purchased vag cable and only learning how to use it properly.
05-15-2014, 06:51 AM
#72
AudiWorld Super User
Welcome to the board!
Try the link from my signature. Instructions you are looking at works only under ideal conditions and in the most cases you will get stuck. Also it doesn't have to be perfect. Starting with the surface you are working on to the body imperfections it is not possible. Few millimeters difference is not noticeable or important.
Moving it for a few feet is not really necessary but the idea is to relax suspension tensions caused by lateral wheel movement caused by different suspension positions.
Try the link from my signature. Instructions you are looking at works only under ideal conditions and in the most cases you will get stuck. Also it doesn't have to be perfect. Starting with the surface you are working on to the body imperfections it is not possible. Few millimeters difference is not noticeable or important.
Moving it for a few feet is not really necessary but the idea is to relax suspension tensions caused by lateral wheel movement caused by different suspension positions.
05-19-2014, 08:50 AM
#73
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Agreed, but....
I would say YES, move the car, so long as you've already marked the location of the tyre's 'footprint' on the ground to make sure your car is returning to the exact same spot after you've moved it and you're measuring again. I would say it's good to know that everything isn't going to change the first time you reverse the car out of the garage.
Measuring from the wheel centre to the wheel arch is tricky, measuring from the ground to the wheel arch and subtracting half the height of the wheel/tyre combination - not so much....
It's worth the effort!
Welcome to the forums, there's some seriously knowledgeable folks on here (one of the best is your first reply..) so you can learn a lot....
K9
Measuring from the wheel centre to the wheel arch is tricky, measuring from the ground to the wheel arch and subtracting half the height of the wheel/tyre combination - not so much....
It's worth the effort!
Welcome to the forums, there's some seriously knowledgeable folks on here (one of the best is your first reply..) so you can learn a lot....
K9
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